BMW 1150GS Clutch Splines spacer kit

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by cele0001, Mar 19, 2014.

  1. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    It is good to see that even you are still chewing on this problem in your spare time. Just out of curiosity how often do you see worn splines nowadays.
    I think that last 4 mm stay "unworn" on a destroyed part but the splines end about 2mm before the end of the shaft. Once the hub goes those extra 2mm get destroyed by the stepped down portion of the spline profile. I would appreciate feedback.
    #41
  2. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    I am so not chewing on this problem. I'll occasionally look at these threads but for the most part it's all covered ground for me.

    I see a few each year. Last year I can remember an S and an RT in the shop for it but there may have been more (plus some mail-order repairs).
    #42
  3. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

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    Anton, Are you saying that the Hexhead shaft does not extend to the clutch disc centerline as the R1100 does?

    Can either of you say how far back the end of the shaft is from the centerline on the 1150.

    I'm trying to convince myself of this solution.
    #43
  4. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    I think he is saying that hex head shaft would fix the engagement in the front but it is impossible to use it because it can not be made to fit the rest of the geometry in the transmission (even with cutting)

    And the 1150 6 speed (and 1100 6 speed, 1100S) and some other chromeheads are the only BMW's in the history of BMW (not only bikes) and clutches (in general) that do not have full spline hub engagement. But I am still young, maybe I haven't seen enough.
    #44
  5. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    For the people that expressed interest , how many would go with bolts vs rivets for the spacer install. From personal experience I know that 5 mm bolts with nylock nuts would be enough but I am partial to rivets. Just want to know if developing the tools to allow you to install rivets would have any value. Rivet tools would be part of every kit.
    #45
  6. liviob

    liviob Been here awhile

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    Bolt layout is different.
    #46
  7. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer

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    Subscribed!

    I would like to see where this is going. It sounds promising :evil

    Dan.
    #47
  8. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    I am also thinking about offering only the spacer without the rivets for the people that want to bolt it instead of riveting (or have somebody else rivet it for them, at a reduced cost). I haven't worked the price yet but the spacer only would be under $90. I have tested it in my bike like this. I rode it for 500 miles and checked, everything was OK. I am currently doing the same test with rivets.

    Once the parts are done in about a week or so those that want just the spacer will be able to buy one. Rivet option will come later and will include tools needed to complete the task. I am hoping about 3 weeks behind the parts. Price will have to be higher but I am doing my best to design correct tools at the right price.
    I would appreciate those that are interested to check in on this board so I can start the count. Please keep in mind that since I don't require prepayment parts will go to whoever raises their hand first.
    I will keep a count on this board for people that expressed interest.
    Thank you
    Esmir

    [​IMG]
    #48
  9. KCDakar

    KCDakar What are we waiting for?

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    I'm in! :deal
    #49
  10. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    Shoulders would be best. I used m5 12.9 grade with lock washers and red locktite, non shouldered. I will post a picture

    Here is the bolt setup I used. I dont see it making problems, I would use nylock nuts instead of lockwashers.
    The goo is locktite.

    [​IMG]
    #50
  11. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    This is why I want to do the rivets, cuts down on paranoia
    #51
  12. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    Just in time for the weekend.

    [​IMG]

    I have to figure out some stuff but if you looking to buy just the spacer and bolt it up yourself please let me know now.

    Price for just the spacer is $85 US (including free shipping within US)


    Let me know.
    Esmir
    #52
  13. Jimmy

    Jimmy get in the van!

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    Esmir, I'm interested. Bolts would do fine for me.
    #53
  14. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    Ok. I will get back regarding payment. It would be PayPal. I am not shipping anything before Monday anyway
    #54
  15. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    You have to figure out your own bolts. They are not included
    #55
  16. gs'n

    gs'n odd knob

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    I'm in!


    Gritz n' Gravy
    #56
  17. Road Warrior

    Road Warrior Pres Valley BMW Riders

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    I'm in as well.

    Will wait for your reply c/w paypal payment requirements.

    Ron
    #57
  18. cele0001

    cele0001 Instigator

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    that somebody has used clutch that they can experiment on.

    First step is to grind the rivet heads off from this side. Use dremmel or small grinder and be carefull. Try not to damage the backing plate. Some scratches are OK but don't be a butcher. Rivets in the picture are not the original ones, the originals are flat, don't be confused.

    [​IMG]


    Once you are done grinding the head use a drift or other suitable tool to knock the rivets out. I used the press but you should be able to do it with hammer and drift. You should support it from the back to avoid bending the plate. Use a cylinder that will fit around the rivet. Size of drift is 3/16 but 3/16 bolt will also do. You should end up with 8 of these.


    [​IMG]

    Then you can separate the clutch into three parts: backing plate, clutch plate, and hub.
    I would appreciate if one of the people that expressed interest can open a thread regarding this process to make it easier for others. Feel free to contact me if you are confused.

    Then you can install the spacer between the hub and the clutch plate. It should look like this.

    [​IMG]

    Here it is from the backside with the bolts installed.

    [​IMG]

    Bolts I used are M5 x 20mm. This is what they look like when they are in.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see there is not a lot of space for the nuts so make sure you dont select ones that are overly wide (with built in washers). As I said nylocks would be the best and still locktite.
    Keep me posted and I will do the same.
    Thank you
    Esmir
    #58
  19. KCDakar

    KCDakar What are we waiting for?

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    I'm in please.
    #59
  20. Unca Fud

    Unca Fud nrpetersen

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    Just an antique engineer's fatigue opinion -

    Rivets are not that necessary. They are very likely used on the OEM parts because they are cheaper and quicker to buy and install.

    Use the 5 mm sockethead capscrews without any lockwashers or nylock nuts. Torque the bolts to yield & preferably use new ones every time. Preferably use good nuts with anti seize under the friction surface only.

    This area runs warm so nylock nuts or locktite won't help. Don't use lockwashers in fatigue on general principle. Remember the U-joint experiences on airheads?

    Edit:
    And - include a spare bolt & nut for the user to learn how to break.......
    #60