BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. jtw000

    jtw000 Survivor

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    602
    I have an interesting issue. Occasionally my speedo dies out, it will read the speed and then drop instantly down to 0 and then run up to speed quickly. Then, more recently the speedo has cut out altogether. When it goes I lose the display and the idiot lights and also the indicators. It's blowing a fuse which should have nothing to do with any of these things and the indicators and display should be on seperate circuits. She was pretty filthy but cleaning out the speedo pickup hasn't helped. I've also cut and removed a damaged rear indicator which I thought might be shorting, none of this has worked. I'm slightly concerned that the dash itself is going which won't be cheap, I'm sure...
    Anyone got any ideas???
  2. slide

    slide A nation in despair

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2003
    Oddometer:
    21,122
    Location:
    NM, USA
    I have lost my 'dash' when riding through a major rain - several times. It comes back again when I emerge from the storm and ride a bit in fair weather. Presumably, the cause is moisture getting into the system and then drying back out. No fuses are affected.

    I'm unsure if this is a help, but I post FWIW.
  3. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,534
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    You have a loose connection to the back of the speedo. Blown fuses says you have a short some where. A lot of the front end electrical has a common supply wire.
  4. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,534
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    That is going to be way too much weight hanging on a rear rack that is attached with 6mm bolts. I think you're going to have to pick one, the rotopax or the topcase. Talk to a local fabricator to come up with a better bracket for the sidemount for your rotopax.
  5. jtw000

    jtw000 Survivor

    Joined:
    May 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    602
    This is very plausible. I recently took a hit to the side which has bent the dash support and I was riding through heavy mud and rain when the problem started. Thanks for the advice.
  6. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    Hi Jeff,

    Alive and kicking I presume?

    The TT subframe/Xtank combination has some issues, but they're easily solved:

    - As I mentioned earlier, the upper mounting points (used for pillion rails, luggageracks and the Xtank) don't have the correct (oem) center distance. They stand about 3-4 mm wider. When I do a tank for such a frame I just drill the holes in that pattern. Another solution is to make a slotted hole of the most rearward hole in the XTank's bracket
    - Also the TT subframe hasn't got the 2 mounting holes for the carbon canister on the upsloping tube. 2 threaded lugs have to be welded on there (another solution is rivet nuts with spacers, but personally I'm not too fond of that solution).
    Now that I'm in the position that I can buy and sell the TT-frames myself, I can prepare that here (incl. re-powdercoating of the welded spots) before I send them off to the customer.

    Oh, btw Jeff, you got to do your best more to try and crack that chain guard :lol3
  7. Brewin_Rider

    Brewin_Rider Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    Seattle
    You may have a future customer here. I love my X-Tank.
  8. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! We can go ANYWHERE!

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    168
    Location:
    Seattle/Mazama
    Me too. Love my XTank, don't love my aluminum subframe, want racks. Erik, you should offer the deluxe upgrade: steel subframe + rack that works with all the xtanks we all have! I will buy!
  9. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,810
    Location:
    Fly over zone
    +1. The Alum subframe. Makes me nervous. Knock on wood...
  10. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    I have checked again today, but it will be a pain to relocate the upper mounting point. More measuring proved that it is probably the forward of the 2 upper mounts that is misplaced. I will do a check again when making a little jig to weld the 2 missing lugs on the upsloping part of the TT-subframe.
    So all in all everything (TT-subframe, my rack, Xtank -also XL versions-) will fit together but for the fact that if you already have our tank 1 hole has to be made into a slothole. Filing 3-4 mms out in 6 mm alloy shouldn't be toomuch of a problem for most people I guess.:wink:
  11. Tracks1

    Tracks1 Arctic Rider

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2012
    Oddometer:
    95
    Location:
    USA West Coast
    Pricing for subframe, rack & XL tank as a package?
  12. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    Sorry guys. No problem giving general info on stuff (mine a.o. :wink: )
    But I think it's not right to use this thread as the vendor's forum.
    Pm or else (easier for me) my email address is in my profile
  13. Happycamper

    Happycamper Have bikes, will travel

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2003
    Oddometer:
    649
    Location:
    Peoples Republic of Cambridge MA
    Could you post soemthing in the vendors forum perhaps? I'd be interested in the cost of the subframe and tank and if it would be compatable with my H-B pannier rack.
  14. Erik RS

    Erik RS Three Wheel Maniac

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    Cloggyland
    Yeah, maybe I'd better :thumb
    Will do (give me a bit of time to write it down properly) and I will post here when done.

    Regarding the H&B luggagerack (this again is general info :deal) and the Xtank:

    The old type racks worked out fine. The new generation has this "quicklock" or whatever and it's bracket interferes with the lowest point of the Xtank. It can be solved with a spacer (but you get some tension on the rack) or by modifying the attachment.
  15. Butters

    Butters Kwyjibo

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,765
    Location:
    NoVA
    So I replaced my plugs today with Iridiums (NGK DR8EIX). What a pain in the ass. I wouldn't want to do that in the field. I probably should have taken pics and done a formal writeup since I wasn't able to find much online, but I figured I would post some tips that the next guy might be able to use.

    First, there are two plugs (NGK DR8 EB).

    I didn't completely remove the airbox, but I unbolted it and pivoted it up and back. To do this, I popped off the crankcase breather hose. I was able to remove it and replace it without removing the factory pinch clamp. I also found it helpful to remove the bracket that holds the horn and rubber snubber. I also pulled the fuse/relay holders off the airbox and removed the battery.

    The outboard plug has the gray boot and the inboard one is black. Not sure it matters, but that's how it was on mine. The plugs require an 18mm spark plug wrench. Unfortunately, it seems most spark plug sockets don't fit through the access hole in the valve cover. Essentially, the valve cover has a shelf that goes over the plugs but it has two holes in it that hold the plug boots and gives access to the plugs. You also have some access to the plugs under the shelf and I think some people use a wrench/spanner rather than a socket. Here's what I did:

    Place the socket on the outboard plug by going under the access hole and then attach an extension to it through the access hole. Loosen the plug, but then remove the socket from under the valve cover after a few turns. Then remove the plug by hand. Do the same for the inbound plug. But this is where it gets tricky because you have very little access to the inbound plug with your fingers (even girly ones like mine). So once the plug was loose, I pushed a piece of hose (fuel line size) onto the plug through the access hole and was able to spin it off easily by spinning the hose and pulled it out through the access hole. (Pictures would have been nice, right?).

    Yes, I really should have taken pics, but the above will be clearer to those that have seen that area of the bike.

    I also replaced the air filter (and removed the nuts my garage mouse decided to store in there). I double checked my IAC and it was still very clean after cleaning it several thousand miles ago.
  16. dantroop

    dantroop Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    182
    Location:
    Silicon Valley
    Nice tip, to use a piece of hose to pull the plugs. I'll have to remember that one. Thanks for the write up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    Texas
    Anybody have their dash start cracking and falling apart yet?

    [​IMG]

    Maybe someone who has ditched their stock dash would want to sell me their cover? hmm? :ear
  18. maltese

    maltese Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    38
    Location:
    Oakland
    Just ordered an ohlins for my g650x challenge because of excessive wear on the rear shock. As I am the third owner and the bike is way out of warranty I decided to go this way and wanted to add some bling to the bike.

    Everywhere I've read has said this shock will raise the seat even higher and wanted to know if there were any recommendations on getting the bike lowered. I don't want to loose much travel, and I'd like to level the bike out, so what size spacer would you recomend throwing in there? I have a 30in inseam and am used to riding bikes with a 32-34 in standover, but the X challenge is just to high.

    Any help would rock!
  19. mcgiggle

    mcgiggle Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    272
    Location:
    UK
    I've had these racks on now (with Ali subframe) 4 years, UK to India and back via Iran and Pakistan and now 15000 miles through South America with no problems but they have been beefed up around the place that is known to break.

    [​IMG]
  20. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,013
    Location:
    Schmocation
    If you order a shock from any of the premium shock makers you should be able to get them build it to whatever length you want.

    The main difference between the height of a air shock and a regular oil/nitrogen shock is the contrast between the parked height and the ride height is nowhere near as vast. With the air shock, the bike sits super high when parked, then sags down loads when you sit on it. The bike is lower with a regular shock when parked, but may be slightly higher than the air shock with your weight on it. .... depending on what pressure you ran in the air shock.