BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. benjero

    benjero Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    LA, CA
    Below, you can see an image of the leaking connection:

    https://plus.google.com/photos/1036...s/5858226797515086305?authkey=CKvlmYz9i9PMwwE
  2. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,737
    Location:
    Loveland, Colorado
    Nice information MacNut! (and don't ever change your avatar please! :lol3)

    I have several jury rigged electrical add-ons including one I just added for my Garmin Montana.

    Before I got the Montana, I already had a cigarette adapter socket under my seat that has a Powerlet plug on the other end that just dangles next to the Powerlet outlet on the side when I'm not using it. The Powerlet outlet is always HOT so I figured this setup would be perfect for charging my USB devices at night when on trips. In that case I always have a tank bag on so I run the USB cable into the tank bag and just leave it there and the other end is always plugged into a USB to cigarette adapter that is plugged into the cigarette socket under my seat. Then if I want to charge a USB device I plug in the cable dangling by the Powerlet socket. At night for a couple of hours I don't want to turn my key (and headlights) on just to charge a low current device for a short while, though I try to charge it while I ride and rely on Bluetooth if possible.

    The point is I figured for the Montana I would just tap into this same circuit which is unswitched, which means it stays powered on when I turn the key off. I'm starting to think this will bite me someday and I'll forget to unplug the powerlet and leave the Garmin attached, so I'm thinking I need to pick it off of a different place that is key switched. p.s. I think somebody measured the Garmin and when off it only takes a few mA of current (was it 8mA or ?) so it's not a huge deal as long as you turn it off.

    The Montana rugged mount has a long battery lead with an inline fuse, a ground, and an audio jack output (for turn by turn directions). It also has 2 more data wires you can simply seal as you probably won't use them. In my case I want to move the rugged mount to another vehicle so I wanted a connector in the power lines to I could quickly disconnect and remove it. So below the Y in the cable where the wires become separated, I cut off only the 2 power lines and installed a waterproof 2-pin automotive connector (Delphi Weatherpak). Tip: use Liquid Electrical Tape from Gardner Bender (at Ace hardware) to fully seal the wires at connectors yet it remains flexible since it is rubbery. This stuff is awesome! The connector is kinda bulky though but I coiled up the excess wire and stashed it all under the handlebars in the center.

    I also have AdvMonster.com aux LED lights (< 2 A) that I wired into a SWITCHED circuit at the fuse box by using a Posi-Tap at a wire coming into a fuse. If you want to be quick you could also pick off of an existing fuse but you must carefully decide which fuse to pick from based on what else is on the circuit (I didn't want to pick the engine management circuit for example!). I measured how current much different circuits ACTUALLY drew to pick one with a lot of margin, and did this by using the very handy $13 mini fuse circuit tester from Harbor Freight :

    [​IMG]

    But now I'm thinking I should revisit this and put in something cleaner. I always had my eye on the sealed 3 circuit kit from Eastern Beaver as it is really slick and takes a lot of the work out of it for you. Note it has a switching lead that you connect to a switched location and that controls the relay so it is only closed when the switch is on:

    [​IMG]
  3. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! We can go ANYWHERE!

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    188
    Location:
    Seattle/Mazama
    Instead of fuses get a PDM. It has eight circuits, 5A-15A each. Three of them automatically shut off three minutes after you shut off the ignition, four are always on, fifth is custom switchable. Instead of blowing a fuse, it opens the circuit until you solve the issue -- no fuses! I put mine under the seat. Love it! Hate fuses!
    http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules
    Aerostich sells them too, so does RocketMoto (dot com) -- good people.
  4. Boughton

    Boughton Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Hailey, Idaho
    I'm looking for the taillight power source to install my switched power source and I noticed this plug thats not being used. Anyone know what this is for?
  5. macadamia

    macadamia XK Red 27 Technique

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,390
    Location:
    Idaho Falls, ID
    I cannot see your image but if I remember correctly, it is the plug for the charcoal canister for emission control.
  6. Crisd

    Crisd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    14
    Location:
    NC
    Gentlemen, I have a question concerning the differences between the ecu's used over the years on the G650X. Basically is there any difference at all over the years and if not, does any one know why the Power Commander V list only the 2009? If there is some difference, does anyone know what it is and can I plug a 2009 ECU onto a 2007?
  7. aprilian

    aprilian Can I change this?

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    478
    Location:
    MinneSNOWta
    That has been covered in great detail in http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=654767
    Short answer, if you don't want to read the whole thread - it works, no diff on ECUs.
  8. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Boise aria
    I seem to recall the other option was the Booster Plug... though I don't know if its better or not, but price and what I remember of the reviews here on ADVRider make it sound appealing.

    http://www.boosterplug.com/shop/bmw-single-cylinder-20c1.html
  9. benjero

    benjero Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    LA, CA
    Sorry to revive an old post, but I'm looking for some help on a similar topic.

    I'm having an issue where the connection on the Thermostat housing keep leaking and spraying coolant. Anybody have an idea how this might be solved?

    In this picture, it's the part right above the number 4.
    [​IMG]

    Thank you much. If i can't fix it myself, I'll have to pay $$$ to have it towed to the dealership... :-/


  10. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,964
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    What is leaking? The hose connection or the plastic housing?
  11. benjero

    benjero Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    LA, CA
    The plastic housing, unfortunately. A leaky hose would be an easy fix...

  12. benjero

    benjero Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    LA, CA
    The plastic housing doesn't seem to sit completely flush with the reservoir it's attached to. Not sure if this is correct, but it's as far as it goes in, and it stays attached when I slide in the metal pin to lock it. Could somebody take a look/picture at theirs for comparison please?

    [​IMG]

  13. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    726
    Location:
    Lakewood, CO
    I had a plastic leak on my radiator fromt he bike taking too many "naps". The only solution I could come up with was molding JB weld over the crack several times and forming it to the shape I needed. Took about three days of "molding" and curing but it has never leaked again, even with the bike taking several dirt naps to test my mold job.

    Not the same area as yours but just an out of the box way of fixing a total PITA leak/crack.
  14. LangKat

    LangKat Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    68
    Location:
    Johannesburg
    Anyone else ever try to remove their seat and find it stuck? Seems like the latching mechanism is broken.

    Any idea how to get there with the seat stuck on?
  15. slide

    slide A nation in despair

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2003
    Oddometer:
    21,308
    Location:
    NM, USA
    Bad one. Have you tried undoing the latch while pressing down on the rear of the saddle? It may just be a bit stuck.
  16. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,964
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    You can always take the inner rear fender off and get to parts of the mechanism that way.
  17. LangKat

    LangKat Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    68
    Location:
    Johannesburg
    I tried pushing the saddle while turning the key. As well as wiggling, hitting, prying with a screwdriver and angry shouts. Nothing worked.

    Will try removing the inner rear fender tomorrow. It was too dark here already to try earlier.
  18. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2010
    Oddometer:
    726
    Location:
    Lakewood, CO
    Removed my fender area and cut it out so I would never have the issue again. key does not work, but you just give the old bike a nice reach around and it'll unlock every time.....:lol3

    No surprise to find a fair amount of dirt now shows up under the seat.
  19. mcgarrett

    mcgarrett Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    206
    Location:
    Golden Isles, GA
    Does anyone have a Hyperpro shock with oil reservoir mounted to a Touratech subframe? The local shop is having difficulty with the install, specifically with the oil reservoir not mounting onto the subframe. There's also an issue with the angle of the hose. Frustrating.
  20. MizzouRider

    MizzouRider Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,992
    Location:
    Fly over zone
    Trying to decide if its worth it to put the progressive springs in the front shocks..
    Any pro or con opinions would be welcome, and who makes them? HyperPro? I think TT sells the HyperPro also. Any others?
    Anyone have a set they want to git rid if, if you gave up and replaced the front forks?
    Thanks