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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
He's alive and off of the Kato!
right, so the other week i removed the throttle spring as per the numerous instructions on here, and sure enough the throttle lightened up considerably. however, the grip is now not returning fully on one spring after i take my hand off it... didn't bother me too much as i would naturally return it anyway, but it failed scrutineering at a rally i was at recently, and i had to put the second spring back on for it to pass. and i don't reckon it'd pass an MOT either...
so anyone else had a similar problem?
Have you removed the throttle and lubed under the throttle tube, inside the throttle housing and the cable? You might be getting binding from any of those.
Also, if you have brush guards or anything else at end of throttle tube make sure the tube or grip is not fouling the item mounted in end of bar. If it is, a quick trim will fix it.
Post up what you find.
handguards not a problem as it was the same with them off.. my next move is to give it a good lube and see if that improves anything....
I'm struggling to sort this problem and loosing days on the trails as a result. I am hoping to get some good advice here so here goes the problem.
My G650 Xchallenge has been going well for the past 10,000 ks and just recently has failed to turn over. When I press the ignition switch it sounds like its trying to turn over but not quite getting there. Here is a wee list of things I have already tried.
I started with the obvious and made sure the battery had a good charge on it. Checked the spark plugs, cleaned and checked the gap. The fuses are fine. No water in the system (dry as a bone). Fresh oil change. I even took the airfilter out to allow the beast to breath. I'll put that back in once the bike is running again. I've been scratching my head long enough and need some advice please. The last time the bike was running the battery caused me problems and I had to jump start off another bike. Since, I have replaced the battery now this problem crops up. Argh.
Any advice at this point would be of help and most appreciated.
Have you checked the battery under load, compared to just with the battery sitting there with nothing turned on?
Mine would drop too much once ignition was turned on and the starter pushed to turn it over, dropped down around 10 volts if I remember correctly.
I'll give this a go. As it's a brand new battery I would assume it too be fully charged. Having said this it could have been sitting for a while before I bought it. I'll charge it today and try it again in the morning. I still don't think it's a battery issue though. I'm afraid it's something more sinister lurking in the shadows.
Okay, new battery should kick it over. Next place to look would be the wiring in the key ignition switch which is known to get cracks in the solder and then check the starter motor.
K D - Check the sidestand switch .
Good ideas above. My valves were so far off once that it induced really rough starts to not being able to start at all. Just tossing in my experience in hope that it could possibly help.
Don't do the aftermarket sprocket, you will regret it.
Thanks for the advice fellas.
Definitely not the side stand.
While tinkering this morning I checked fuel flow from the tank to the intake. All good.
I replaced the spark plugs too. By the way. Is anyone familiar with the correct placement of the spark leads. There are two of them, one for each plug, and they have slightly different colors to the rubber collar of each lead.
I have given the electrical system a good blow through with the airgun and electronics spray. Key ignition is clean as a whistle and so are the leads to battery. All the fuses have been double checked and still no joy.
I hit the ignition button and the engine started to turn (just not turn over). I know this is the started motor doing it's job. I even sprayed a bit of Jump Start in the intake and still no joy.
From this I have ruled out power supply and am now guessing it has something to do with either the started motor or ??
Thanks again fellas,
All the suggestion are great.
They can suffer from wear to the clutch and spring on the starter motor, much like the 800 Tigers have. Starter moves a little bit but won't actually turn over.
I am sure there is something in this thread about it from Walter.
Here it is
I saw some of us installed Excel rim on BMW OEM hub, so I want to do the same, for front wheel only.
I belive its "standard" Excel rim, used on many KTM's (IC_408), is that correct?
Is is possible to use OEM spokes and nipples? If not, what should I use?
Well, as promised I took a few pics of the UNI air filter and pre filter installation today.
The air filter is pretty straight forward, very simple procedure.
Now, the pre filter is another matter.. the plastic cover that holds the foam in place, wont even fit in the airbox.. its too large. If you force it, it just bends and the holes dont match.
So I had to trim all sides and used some coarse sand paper to finish it..
Even now, one of the holes is way out of place.
I had to make 2 of the holes a little oval shaped to fit it properly..
as you can see below, it is not a snug fit, but the foam will fill in the gaps.
In my opinion, the pre filter kit should come with a properly sized aluminum cover instead of that crappy plastic one. Maybe I'll fab one out of an alloy sheet some day..
pre filter installed:
I had the airbox out of the box, so it was a nice oportunity to fit the new fuel injector.
Removing the old injector is pretty straight forward, just undo the two bolts holding it in place, remove the fuel hose (be careful, it may still have some pressure) and remove the electrical connection, pull it up carefully and out it goes.
There is a clip holding the injector to the plastic bracket/nipple, remove the clip and they will separate.
Old injector/ new injector
fit the bracket/nipple and install the holding clip
fit the new injector in place
Connect everything back
Fit the airbox,
and it should start
low seat/ stock seat comparison:
I rode a few kms and it seems to have better throttle response and felt more powerful everywhere. the wheel took off the ground in 1st and 2nd easily (stock gearing). it also seems to run cooler..
Will post more info when i have some serious miles on this setup.
Thanks for the detailed pics!
I love your graphics, where did you find those?
In my opinion, the pre filter kit should come with a properly sized aluminum cover instead of that crappy plastic one. Maybe I'll fab one out of a alloy sheet some day..
Thats what I did to get a good fitting pre filter.
Also be carefull when tightenening those three holding down srews. I dosn't take much force for those metal thread inserts (air box) to "let go".
You just reminded me.
As well as the TT tank and Scheffelmeier case saver I have advertised in the flea market, I also have a 10% oversize injector in the shed. PM an offer if you can use it.
I'll let you know on Friday arvo if you need to make two....
Hopefully we can welcome you into the fold, S___