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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.
ha! I like the way you think
As you might recall, I had a bent selector shaft and needed to replace the water pump....
I ended up putting the cast frame, swingarm and rear wheel back on the bike and then took the bike to a friend of a friend that is a welder/metalworker. He put some rod stock in his lathe and drilled a hole about 11.5mm in diameter, this allowed the rod to fit snugly over the splines but would not fit over the shaft itself which is 12mm in diameter. We then put a cheater bar on the rod and carefully bent the selector shaft back to where it appeared to be straight.
Once I got the bike back home, I took the wheel/swingarm/cast frame off again(!) but the inner case needed some persuasion with a mallet and the blunt plastic end of a screwdriver before it came off, I replaced the wp seals, wp impeller/shaft, both pinion gears, inner case gasket, clutch cover gasket, clutch basket lock washer and the shifter shaft seal. The bike is now all buttoned up and shifting fine. The new seals/gaskets are doing their job with no leaks. I am just hoping that the shifter shaft wasn't weakened too much.
- If the shifter shaft is just slightly bent, removing the water pump impeller from the water pump shaft (punch out the pin) and removing both inner and outer clutch baskets might get you some wiggle room
- It's difficult to see if the shifter shaft is bent, the definitive way is to take off the rear wheel/brake/swingarm/header/cast frame piece/shift lever/engine mount bolts/outer clutch cover and try to remove the inner cover. You might get an idea that it is bent if you take off the shift lever and remove the shifter shaft seal - try to hold something straight (small allen wrench) against it and see if it is straight all the way out to the end of the splines, compare measurements from around the shaft, otherwise you just don't have a frame of reference.
- If you removed the outer clutch basket, while reinstalling, getting it to mesh with the two (oil pump) plastic gears (inner basket gear) and the crank gear (outer basket gear) was somewhat time consuming, or you might get lucky, make sure it is fully seated. Snooker took a good photo of the gears and the back of the outer basket: http://mattsnook.com/bmw/bmwXCountry/RekluseClutch/IMG_5155.JPG
- 10 nM torque on the clutch release lever bolt was too high, I cracked the lever trying to get the torque to that miniscule amount, a new one is $24 and I will probably order one (unless tbarstow has an undamaged, used one he wants to sell.) When I get another I will use loctite and just hand snug the bolt.
- Bleeding the coolant is an exercise in patience. I had to loosen then tighten the bleeder screw in the cylinder head twice - once during the initial fill, then again after I had topped off the radiator. There was still a lot of massaging of the hoses and just plain waiting for the thing to quit burping. Once the coolant level in the radiator stayed static I topped it off, filled the overflow reservoir to about half way and it's good
- There is a washer on the water pump shaft that goes between the pinion gear and the case, if you removed the impeller from the shaft the washer might fall off when you remove the inner case, make sure you find it
- I used authentic Loctite 243 (found at Napa auto parts) for several nuts/bolts as specified by the RepROM and instead of Optimoly grease I used Honda 60 Moly grease which was $15/tube from a local Honda car dealer
- The round clutch cover is definitely worn inside the hole where the clutch actuator arm has wallowed it out, I will be ordering the 2009 clutch cover from BMW and the bearings from Amazon soon. It will be interesting to see if I need to grind off the end of the clutch actuator shaft... As usual, Snooker did an excellent write up: http://mattsnook.com/bmw/bmwXCountry/ClutchSideCover/index.htm
Edit - added notes
MODERATOR or Original Poster
can we sticky this on the first post?
when I replaced my coolant I had some issues with the "hot" light coming on even after burping and shaking and filling etc. I finally decided to remove the bleed bolt and start the motor. it farted out all the air real quick ! no issues now.
man, I hope I never have to deal with a bent shift shaft.
You've clearly never seen me fix anything.
No alternative part will fit as far as I'm aware but you can use strips of innertube between the hub and cushdrive rubber. Just place one strip per rubber at the side where the rubber "cushion" is thickest.
I'm looking into an Aprilia part as an exact copy. Hopefully will get some information in a couple weeks time. Will do the inner tube fix for now. Thanks.
Has anyone confirmed the Aprilia part as yet?
To all running a HotRod Welding X-Tank, or a similiarly placed auxiliary tank feeding the main through the stock vent under the seat -
1) Has anyone tried installing a paper fuel filter between the aux and main tanks?
2) My X-tank is vented through one similar to this:
When bike is dropped, it leaks! Are these vent supposed to be one-way valves or just a through-hole? Are they supposed to filter incoming air of dust?
How about OEM fittings found on motorcross bikes, any better?
I have had a plastic fuel filter exactly like what you show in picture #1 between my TT tank and the main tank for the last 18 months with zero problems.
Not had the filter but did have the vent. Taken that off very quickly as you'll lose it at some point in time. Just put some piece of suitable hose on the vent and cabletie it to the bike. If you put a filter on the end of the breather hose it won't suck in dust.
If you are worried about losing the check valve, put a zip tie or hose clamp around it and it won't fall off. I can't imagine enough air being sucked into the breather hose to cause any issues with dust.
rear brake tension spring... mine seems to have gone missing. BMW has none in stock and I kind of need it (trying out for GS trophy this weekend...) any hardware store alternatives?
If I am not mistaken they are generic Brembo brakes, not BMW specific.
Call up KTM dealer possibly?
P.S. hope I am thinking of right bike in my fleet..
All the fuel that's used on any trip is replaced by air. That air might not be squeeky clean if you ride in dusty conditions a lot. Just a thought mind.
The other benefit of using a piece of hose strapped to the bike is that if the fuelcap is not tightened properly you're less likely to lose that as turning is prevented (up to a degree) by the hose not being able to turn.
last night I installed the Oxford "adventure" heated grips and mounted the Alaskan Leather full saddle dual sport sheep skin cover.
the throttle tube on the xchallenge is waaay different than a dirt bike throttle tube. I used a knife to cut off all the ridges from the tube. I wasn't able to get the grip on without removing them. I have a shorai lithium battery which is a lot smaller than the lead acid one. all of the grip wiring fit in the spaces near the battery. I used a grinder to grind down the left mirror mount so that I could mount the heat controller to it. fit perfect after that (the kit includes some new bolts and collar spacers). the oxfords get a lot hotter, a lot faster than the stock bmw grips that I had on my Sertao and r1200gs. I think ill enjoy them. if you are thinking about doing this mod, it might be worth buying a standard dirt bike throttle tube that fits the xchallenge housing (not sure where to find one). i used a shit load of gorilla glue and a 1/2 tube of the rubber cement that comes in a tube-patch-kit to stick them on there.
The Alaskan Leather seat cover is absolutely amazing. it fits perfect and its sooo comfortable. very, very high quality. ill be giving them more of my money for sure. they are custom made for every bike and it only took 3 days to arrive! made in the USA. ill post a picture of that tomorrow.
That's good to know! I shall install one over winter to help protect the main tank.
I don't think the crapload of dirt and water in the bottom of my Xtank could get in through the gas cap...So that leaves only the breather hose responsbile.
Do you have a filter on yours? Can't think of what would work and be discreet (i.e. not a 2nd paper fuel filter! )
The original breather hose (which is taken off if you've got an extra tank being fed into the standard tank) runs all the way to the bottom of the bike so it sucks in all the stuff that's down there. Run the bike through deep water and yep, it will suck in water through the breather rather than air.
If you have a standard tank, just cut off the breather hose at a convenient length and fit one of these plastic filters on the end and let it sit under your seat or such.
Only just noticed you have an X-tank as well. Must have been through the breather I'd think. Can't explain it otherwise.
Ok I took my gas cap apart and will replace the oring at the lock. I just flipped the big flat seal over, the back side looks fine . I will make a new one or more if anyone wants a spare next time I get to Pittsburgh. The question is should I lube the area that the lock sits in and with what? Maybe some graphite . That area should stay free of fuel. Thanks for the help.
Those pretty little breather caps are typically not check valves nor are they filters. I've made similar contraptions by using a tire air valve cap with a piece of retaining wire run through it. They keep big objects out and act as a baffle to retain sloshing fuel.
If you are getting dirt in your tank through your vent, you must be riding is some terribly, terribly dusty conditions. I suggest running the vent hose away from the tank and attaching some sort of filtering media to prevent intrusion into the tank. You can buy small filters like a weedeater etc. fuel line filter that normally goes inside a tank and sticking it in the end of your vent line. You could also just wrap the end of the vent line with a piece of an old T shirt fabric.
Go down to Lowes or similar place for one of these-