BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. MATT0404

    MATT0404 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    376
    Location:
    PA
    Thanks for the info, guys. I'm going to double check my measurements and cam lobe orientation tonight just for peace of mind before buttoning everything back up.
  2. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    3,497
    Location:
    NYC
    fwiw,
    [​IMG]
    Dutchgit likes this.
  3. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    3,497
    Location:
    NYC
    So I'm finishing up my project and I put the swingarm back on so I could get the bike rolling and get my milk crate stand back for its important job - stool. When I'd taken it off the three little bolts on the right came off as easy as you please and I felt a bit of relief that I didn't have to deal with the nonsense of recalcitrant bolts made of swiss cheese. Last night I went to put the chain on and fast forward through quite a bit of swearing and tonight I'll bring my reverse drill bit out to the garage to get the last one but goddamn what the fuck were you thinking BMW that is not a place for teeny tiny bolts made of cheese. Why not just use the same big beefy bolt you have on the other side? :becca

    That said, the bike starts up and shifts nicely now so even with a few final pieces it's nice to see an end in sight. I certainly know the thing a lot better now than I did before and the sense of relief/accomplishment I felt from replacing such a major component without destroying anything is pretty great.

    And if I ever have to do it again I bet I can do it in 1/3 the time. :hung
    eaglescan, Len and Dutchgit like this.
  4. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,310
    Location:
    Герма́ния
    I know your pain. When I replaced the shifter shaft I cut the gasket before I've put the two halves of the engine together... :becca
    Len and keepshoveling like this.
  5. eaglescan

    eaglescan Borrego rocks

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    257
    Location:
    Langley,B C
    Well done on the engine swap. perseverance is a good thing!
    keepshoveling likes this.
  6. seasider

    seasider Just a rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    891
    Location:
    Virginia
    Have any of you guys successefully used a coyote loop bag on the x with just the standard heat shield provided and the oem exhaust?
    I would hope to go this route with a small additional duffle for some camp weekends.
  7. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! We can go ANYWHERE!

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    234
    Location:
    Seattle/Mazama
    I used a Great Basin on my X(Co) with just the heat shield provided by GL, for a few thousand dirt miles. I did need to MacGyver ~10 square inches of additional heat shielding. It's not a big deal, it worked just fine. (And - I'm happier with xrack and wolfman saddlebags.)
  8. MATT0404

    MATT0404 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    376
    Location:
    PA
    I don't have experience with the GL bags, but I run the Mosko Moto R40 with their heat shield and an improvised pop can for additional peace of mind.

    [​IMG]Packed Up by Matt Krepp, on Flickr
    sitz, keepshoveling, Dutchgit and 2 others like this.
  9. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    $#&*! this valve cover bolt broke off inside.
    How screwed am I?
    I'll probably take it to Lior's shop but checking here first if anyone has any suggestions first. Again the valve cover bolt has broken off inside.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  10. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,267
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    Cover everything up well and use a left twist drill bit. I think I still have some of these bolts in the garage.
    flying.moto and blaster11 like this.
  11. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Thanks - I could pick something up at the auto store.
    @tbarstow what size would you use?
  12. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,267
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    I would use a 5/32" left twist drill. Looks like AutoZone has a set for $10.

    I will most likely be in LA on Wednesday night and Thursday this week, I can bring you some new valve cover bolts.
    Len, keepshoveling and advFord like this.
  13. advFord

    advFord Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2012
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Alright if anyone runs into this problem..

    I was able to get the broken valve cover bolt out using the $8 Left Hand Drill Set from Harbor Freight. I started out with a center tap and the smallest bit and after a frustrating half hour of working my way up to larger bits I was finally able to get the bolt out using the 11/64 bit. It didn't come out till I was just about at the very end of the bolt.

    [​IMG]
    Valve Cover Bolt removed using 11/64th Left Hand Bit from Harbor Freight.

    Thanks @tbarstow for the suggestion! I'll send you a PM.
    Len, keepshoveling, blaster11 and 2 others like this.
  14. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,310
    Location:
    Герма́ния
    That was lucky !
    keepshoveling, blaster11 and advFord like this.
  15. seasider

    seasider Just a rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    891
    Location:
    Virginia
    Thanks Matt and Yukon Ho regarding the giant loop style use. Now that I have the bike dialed in luggage carrying is the last item to address. Im not crazy about bag frames on the rear and will start with the lesser options.
    Lots of room on the seat on back even with a relaxed riding position. Bigger challenge will be strapping points but it looks feasible in the picture.
    Open to suggestions if others have figured out fastening/lashing solutions that have worked well for road and trail.
  16. BikerBobber

    BikerBobber Trying to get lost

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,279
    Location:
    Seeleys Bay, Ontario
    Fixed.

    Bob

    Sent from my mobile
    Dutchgit likes this.
  17. trailrider71us

    trailrider71us I can't b fired,only sold

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    210
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Len- Did you get your lowbeam fixed?
    Mine is pulling the same crap. Took the switch apart not much to see.
  18. Cam805

    Cam805 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    103
    Location:
    Ventura County, California
    Well it finally caught up with me, time to do the water pump...18,000 miles which I believe is right on schedule. It's weeping a bit, and the overtemp MIL comes on at idle, so it's time to change those seals.

    Two questions for the gurus:

    1. The manual says to pull the swingarm, which needs doing anyway. But it also says to pull the oil reservoir. Is this 100% necessary, or can you work around it?

    2. The snooker page suggests that the seals go because the outboard end of the shaft is supported by the waterpump housing. While in there, will I extend the life of the new shaft by replacing the housing too?

    I want to order the parts all in one go, not get in there and find I forgot something.

    Appreciate the help.
  19. Len

    Len Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    3,161
    Location:
    North Alabama
    Yes, after I looked into the schematic, the power to the low beam isn't fed the same as the high. The 7.5 amp fuse was blown. The PO had done some "creative" wiring to the H4 harness socket and the low beam post was touching the triple clamp to dash mount bolt when things got rough. I insulated the wire connector and replaced the fuse and all was good again.

    I found the switch to be the same as you, all good in there.
  20. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,267
    Location:
    Viva Lost Wages!
    #1 - no need to pull the oil reservoir. You will have to take the lower left frame casting off to get access to 1 or 2 bolts holding the left engine housing cover (also called the Clutch Housing on the fiche, 11 14 7 699 387 CLUTCH HOUSING) on. At this point, your bike will probably be laying on its side on the ground unless you can lift it from above.

    #2 - the water pump shaft is not really supported on the outside in the clutch housing. Replacing that part is a bit expensive. Do purchase the water pump shaft kit (11 51 2 343 451 SET: SET, WATER PUMP SHAFT for $58) and check the clutch housing to make sure the hole for the clutch housing is still round and that the housing has not warped (check the flatness of the clutch housing machined surface), as these have been known to warp or wear the impeller hole out of round.

    Somewhere there is a set of photos showing how to do this. It looks scary, but really isn't that bad to do.
    keepshoveling, Dutchgit and Yukon Ho! like this.