BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Dutchgit likes this.
  2. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    I'm fitting the uni filter and pre filter while I'm doing this. Figured I'd do it all at once, I was going to clean the actuator with it on the bike but looking at how dirty it was I figured better just take the whole lot out and clean it up.
    Dutchgit likes this.
  3. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    The Twin Air filters are good too. and you don't need their silly prices alloy bracket ;-)
    You can cut up any MX foam filter to use as a pre filter over it.
  4. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    Can I replace the ear crimp clamps with regular house clamps on the hose from the air box? It obviously wasn't tight enough because when I pulled the air box off the hose came straight off the air box.
  5. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Sure ! Why not ?
  6. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    The rubber donut that seals the box to the TBody (shown on a previous post) is something that I watch. I changed mine out for a new one after a few years.
  7. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    The shorai is smaller. Whether or not you want LiFePo is an open question (and if you do, I don't know whether or not the earthx is the same size as the shorai).

    Just wiggle and pull really hard.

    You mean not wide enough or too close to the ground? For width, I really like my pivot pegz.

    I kept reading and you're doing this but I'd take it off and clean the throttle body too. I had some cold stalling, cleaned the idle actuator and top of the throttle body and it didn't entirely go away, took it off and cleaned out the bottom as well and now it's like butter again.

    For folks who don't know (I'm sure you all know but I had to think it through this last time), the way the throttle body works is that there's a big tube controlled by a butterfly valve that's connected by cable to your right hand. Twist and it opens. When it's closed there's no air getting to the engine and it dies. Unless you have something like the idle actuator. There is a small hole in the top of the throttle body that runs down to a small hole in the bottom, below the butterfly valve. The idle actuator either plugs or unplugs this hole. When it's unplugged, there's air going down into the engine and it doesn't die. When it's plugged, with gunk for example, and the butterfly is closed the engine gets no air and dies.

    Anyway, all that is why I think you need to pull the throttle body and clean it. At least on mine, I think there was enough gunk in the bottom hole that it wasn't quite getting enough air and that was causing the occasional cold stall. Now that's it clean, it's great, but fwiw it did need the whole throttle body cleaned, not just the top/idle actuator.

    It's so easy to take it off now that you're in there, just make sure you don't drop the second set of washers on the little bolts holding the fuel injector on - there's one next to the bolt and a second one between the fuel injector and the throttle body.
    daze55556 likes this.
  8. Meriden

    Meriden Yea whatever

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    I'm using a Shorai on my X and it works great. That is not a recommendation. Owning a LiFePo battery takes some additional consideration on the part of the owner. There is a pretty good thread on batteries here on ADV Rider. It's worth the read.
    daze55556 likes this.
  9. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    That's the one I was looking at, unfortunately I'm flying the bike to South America and the freight agent said the airlines won't take lithium batteries as they are defined dangerous cargo
  10. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    You're probably stuck with something like this, then. http://www.fuzeblocks.com
  11. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! We can go ANYWHERE!

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    Fuses suck. Four years ago I put a Rowe PDM60 on my X. It rocks. I still have to carry spare fuses for the OEM circuits, grumble grumble.
  12. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    Ok guys my posting continues...

    I had also noticed the rear of the engine case was a bit wet and closer inspection revealed the oil return hose doesn't appear to be hooked up correctly. There is no slack in it, is there an easy way to get at it? I don't think it's leaking to too badly, there are no oil spots on the ground where I park.

    *UPDATE - Just checked the oil with I think the proper procedure, let the bike idle till the fan came on, let it run for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, stood the bike up straight opened the cap and the oil was half way up the filler tube so almost the entire dipstick was submerged, I'm guessing the oil is just seeping out wherever it can. (last oil change done by BMW dealer, doubt they would over fill it?) Not sure if I left it running with the fan on too long and threw out the measurement.

    There were a few small bubbles on top but it didn't look milky. OIL SMELLS OF FUEL. eek. The bike is running fine, good economy, starts idles and accelerates fine.

    Given the small size of the tank and width of the filler i'm guessing 300 odd ml over?

    I've done about 400 kilometres since the oil change was done.

    Sorry for so many questions.

    Photo taken after the oil had receded a bit.

    20160718_231311.jpg

    Took some oil out and apart from the bubbles it looks clear, not milky.

    2016-07-18 23.23.48.jpg

    Replaced the paper filter with the uni filter and pre filter, left the internal cover off as specified by uni filter, now have this go awful gap in the plastics.

    20160718_203312.jpg
  13. CarstenB

    CarstenB Adventurer

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    sitz and daze55556 like this.
  14. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    Just figured it out thanks.
  15. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    That gap gets covered up by the plastics though so you won't notice it.
  16. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

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    Still need help with the overheating issue. I have convinced myself the coolant procedure has been done as best as humanely possible. ( did it three times since my last post. And yes I am aware of the bleeder on the right side of the bike. I have also rocked, burped hoses, inclined, declined, side clined, other side clined, man i am making words up, to get all possible bubbles out. )

    Start bike and watch it overheat. Shut off before full boil over.

    What would you do next?
    1. Replace thermostat? $48
    2. Replace
    13 62 1 703 993 DOUBLE TEMPERATURE SWITCH ? $48
    3. Replace
    11 51 2 343 451 SET: SET, WATER PUMP SHAFT 0.13 1 $57.22[​IMG]
  17. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    Do you have either coolant in your oil or a coolant leak from the hole on the front bottom right of the bike as you're facing it?
  18. Len

    Len Long timer

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    Take the thermostat out and check it in a pot of boiling water first. Sounds like it isn't opening if it is running hot quickly.
    jjmead1 and Dutchgit like this.
  19. jjmead1

    jjmead1 now THAT"S a bike!

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    Sorry I was not clear.
    the only coolant leaks are from the cap, over flow cap, and coolant overflow hose. no other leaks.
    and they only leak while its boiling....

    just performed oil change as well. old oil had no visible signs of coolant. current oil is not foamy or otherwise presenting a coolant mix.
  20. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Just to make sure, is the radiator cap on tight ? (they can be very hard to "lock/unlock"