BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GB, Apr 24, 2008.

  1. cgguy09

    cgguy09 ScientiƦ Cedit Mare

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    850
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    Seattle, WA
  2. ArcticRider

    ArcticRider Been here awhile

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    I had no idea of such a concept but I can think of many negatives. Many. But I will check it out just from curiosity.

    I see you are from Seattle. These XCh would be a blast in Seattle. I was a messenger down there many years ago but these days I like a throttle to help with gravity issues. :thumbup

    EDIT:
    I just looked at their product description and I cannot stress this enough....A Thermostat Delete is an absolutely terrible concept in any application except possibly a sprint race. It will destroy an engine.
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  3. ArcticRider

    ArcticRider Been here awhile

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    The choice of grease is very important.
    An excellent choice is an aluminum complex grease (vs lithium complex) due to its superior performance in water environments. The BelRay blue grease in a blue & white tub is an aluminum complex.

    Does BMW recommend a grease with Moly? Some manufacturers do.

    Just like oil and coolant...all greases are not alike.
  4. cgguy09

    cgguy09 ScientiƦ Cedit Mare

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    Good to know, I honestly had't researched it. I know another inmate had it in his F650 and then transferred it to his g650 after he had issues with the bmw cooling system. (I think his f650 kept overheating).
  5. hansi

    hansi Teurer Abenteurer

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    Really glad you are not poking fun at Hans & Frans
    :lol3:D:jack
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  6. ArcticRider

    ArcticRider Been here awhile

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    Sorry but I am a product of Saturday Night Live:

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  7. BozemanGirl

    BozemanGirl Adventurer

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    Jun 9, 2015
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    Is there a link out there for the torque specs for the X. Just did my swingarm yesterday and could use some specs and what if anything uses loctite. Job was super easy, took about an hour.
  8. BozemanGirl

    BozemanGirl Adventurer

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    Jun 9, 2015
    Oddometer:
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    Bozeman MT
    Also, anyone know how to measure rear wheel travel other than taking a tape measure from the top of tire to the bottom of fender. Front is easy. Turns out my bike that I just bought was shortened quite a bit. Front wheel travel should be 10.6" and rear the same. My front is 9.5" and the rear eye to eye on the Wilburs (non reservoir with remote preload) is 13" where stock is like 14.2". Top of tire to inner fender is 9". I could stand to have a bit more rear suspension as I bottomed out several times on the way back from LA to Bozeman on some of the many off road sections I ran. Thanks
  9. khpossum

    khpossum poster

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    Sep 13, 2007
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    Colorado
    There's got to be a way to get there without having to backspace thru 200 pages, but it is evading me right now. Hint please?
  10. ArcticRider

    ArcticRider Been here awhile

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  11. blaster11

    blaster11 Still having fun!

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    I typically just use the axle as my bottom measure point and a point directly above the axle which I mark with a Sharpie to be consistent with my measurements. Are you truly looking for a longer shock or too just properly set up the preload so that you have more useable shock?
  12. beemer67

    beemer67 Really Old airhead

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    Fish Limb, B.C. Canada
  13. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    As long as you're in there you should replace those three little bolts holding on the right side not-a-bolt-it's-actually-a-plug-even-though-it-looks-like-a-bolt because they are, in fact, made of swiss cheese and even if they come out fine now you'll be annoyed when you strip one later.
    snooker likes this.
  14. beemer67

    beemer67 Really Old airhead

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    Don't have a link per se but here are some numbers.

    Swinging-arm stud, left M20 x 1.5 80 Nm


    Locknut of the final-drive chain tensioning screw M8 25 Nm


    Swinging-arm pivot bearing stud to frame stub, right M5 Loctite 243 5 Nm


    Torque reaction link stud to rear swinging arm M12 Loctite 243 50 Nm


    33 52 - Shock damper



    Spring strut to central bracket, top M12 85 Nm


    Spring strut to rear swinging arm M12 x 60, Replace nut
    Mechanical thread lock 85 Nm


    Retaining plate to central bracket M4 3 Nm
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  15. ArcticRider

    ArcticRider Been here awhile

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    Beemer67,

    Thanks very much for posting these but can I ask their source?

    I only ask because the more I attempt to research this G650X, the more frustrating it becomes to find such little information coming from BMW itself (as one would expect from a manufacturer) and most of it just a re-post of a re-post of a re-post from a 2008 threads without acknowledgement of the original source.

    Please don't get me wrong, there are some absolutely amazing efforts put in by X owners who obviously spent 100's of hours compiling bits and pieces of instructions and collected wisdom (and I am completely indebted to these selfless individuals), but there is also a fair amount of mis-information floating around.

    Is there a BMW Repair Manual that was the original source?
  16. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

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    Viva Lost Wages!
    That's from the BMW RepRom. Go buy it from BMW. You will pay for it the first repair you do yourself.
    chassr, Redwags and ArcticRider like this.
  17. Mancino

    Mancino Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2014
    Oddometer:
    31
    So some of you helped in my decision to buy an X in need of a transplant... I just got the replacement motor today but it needed a shifter shaft replaced.

    Not sure if I should've opened a new thread for this, but I figured I'd share the progress as of today...[​IMG]

    Waiting on a gasket set to close it all up, but it was fairly easy to do so far.

    Attached Files:

  18. Mancino

    Mancino Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2014
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    The bike was what you'd call a "basket case", so all the disassembly was done....I'm hoping it's all there to put back together. Fingers crossed

    Attached Files:

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  19. BozemanGirl

    BozemanGirl Adventurer

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    Jun 9, 2015
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    Bozeman MT
    Well, my bike I just purchased was lowered so I'm trying to determine if I can accept how low it is. Seems very XCountry like. For instance the front forks have been reduced to 9.5" travel from 10.5 stock, or 1" lowered front. The rear shock is a Wilburs and has a 13" eye to eye measurement, and 9" from top of a 150 tire to the bottom of the apex of the dome of the inside of the fender (where the tire would make contact if it bottomed into the fender). I'm assuming top of tire to this point is "travel". I'd like to know if there is a better way to measure travel correctly. On my way back from purchasing the bike I rode several hundred miles off road back to Montana from LA. I bottomed out the shock a few times on whoops and I didn't really enjoy that, and the preload was maxed tight and compression pretty high on the rebound setting. And I could add another 1" to 1.5" of height to the bike and still be fine on it. So I'm thinking about a new TFX Shock from Ted Porter. Sell the like new Wilburs for a few hundred bucks on the Flea Market. Just trying to educate myself. The stock X Challenge supposedly had 10.5" of travel both front and back. I guess I'd like to emulate that by raising the back up at least an inch and then seeing about what it would take to get the front springs back closer to 10" from 9.5"
  20. Delta61

    Delta61 Been here awhile

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    On page 1 of this thread under "Specifications" - Torque values, you will find all the torque specs from the Reprom.

    Jim
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