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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by andrewgore, Jul 20, 2009.
I think the dark blue is normal, just providing the picture as requested...
My ignition switch solder conection failed also. Everyone needs to beef up this conection. I'm thinking a bunch of epoxy dumped into this area should do it.
Can you post more specifics/pics?
I zip tied my wires coing out of the ignition switch to the round body of the switch, to eliminate any pull/vibration. Been fine for 12k miles. Definitely a weak link, but easy fix.
does this affect the gauge cluster any. my bike has develop a nasty habit of reseting the clock and trip meters when i turn the key sometimes. there no stalling or drivability issues though.
I've had my gauge cluster all reset too. I also have had my display fade out during heavy rains. I doubt either issue is related to the solder in the ignition switch, though.
I've had mine for two months. Bought it used with about 2500 miles on it and it now has just over 5000. Runs great with no issues but makes a howling - ringing noise while running down the road. It's hard to explain but it's made this noise since I bought it. It's almost like a hum resonating from the engine area. It does not increase as the RPM increases. I commute 86 miles a day with 70 miles of it crusing 75 - 80 MPH on I95. I hear it while commuting or while tooling along on trails at 10 MPH.
My 1150GS made a lot of noise (compared to my other bikes) but ran flawlessly the entire time I had it. Could this be the same? Anyone else notice this type of noise?
BTW: Running Pirelli Scorpions and full Remus exhaust if that helps.
Mine made similar noise - I figured it was engine noise reflected up from the aftermarket bash plate. I put some sound deadening material (self adhesive) on the inside of the plate, it quieted down significantly.
I also put some rubber grommets between the bash plate and the places where it connects to the frame.
You could try riding with the bash plate removed, see if the noise changes or disappears before trying the padding stuff.
I'm running a TT skid plate. I never thought about it resonating; thank you very much for the input. I'll pull it and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.
I've got the TT large bash plate, resigntes sound significantly...
I put the self adhesive bitumen inside the skidplate (the stuff you stick to the inside of car doors to make them "sound dead"). Made a lot of difference.
Available at car parts stores for a few dollars.
did you get your display issue resolved.mine hasnt faded out in rain. but resets like every other day.
I'll have to try that. Thanks for the info!
Looks pretty good for these bikes. I'll keep a look out for the crank failure at +20k miles. For me that will be around 2019.
Owned since new
-My left blinker indicator stopped working...6000 miles
-Headlight assemble cracked
BMW warrantied it, no problems at all...
I'm still loving this bike!
Lost the gas from my shock.
Xcountry, 2008, 9,100Km
Last 3,500 km have been fairly tough, outback Oz on dirt roads that we think are OK, but bike endured corrigations, bull dust holes and sand blown over the road. Also high temps, up to 44 degree C in the shade.
Speed: 80 to 95 km/hour
Hit a bump hard at one point, I think that's what did it. Also cracked an elastomer at the bottom of the shock unit.
Does the shock have to be replaced? Can you put the gas back in them?
Are repairs/replacement shock covered by warranty?
Yes, repairs etc covered by warranty.
BMW has looked at the bike now and says it's all fine and that the sag is due to the suspension wearing in. Seems a lot of sag to me, but I don't know this stuff. I used to get the balls of my feet comfortably on the ground when sitting on the bike, now I can easily place my feet flat on the ground which I think is about a 5.5 cm increase in sag.
The fellow who transported my bike said he used to race trail bikes and was always replacing shocks, he seemed to think it had lost all it's gas and questioned me about oil loss too.
I'm confused now. I was finding that when I set up the suspension according to the bikes manual for an 85 kg person, which would be me and luggage, it still felt too spongy when loaded.
Any suggestions appreciated, thanks
I'm not knowledgable enough to suggest specific settings or comment on the workings of a shockie etc. but if it were me I would probably ask myself;
1. Was there an immediate noticeable difference after hitting the big bump?
2. Has the BMW replacement/repair of the elastomer bizzo returned it to what it was like before the big bump?
3. Should I get an independant second opinion from a suspension expert?
I was looking at the Ohlins site a couple of nights ago and found this, it might help - http://www.ohlins.com/Products/OwnersManuals/OM_07241-02.pdf
There is also a thread over in the Oz section that might shed some light on the subject - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=318553
Mileage at time of issue: Current Mileage 6800ish
Date of occurrence: N/A
Modifications (if any): Lots of mods for protection, only Unifilter filter substitution as far as powertrain
Description of Failure(s): Intermittent stalling issues, seemingly related to voltage, battery recall seemed to help in short term, but problem returned. One day after having the "stalling" occur during a ride home, I ripped the bike apart while test firing it after each removal/tightening/wire shake, etc. Nothing helped until I plugged in the trickle charger, then it immediately started and idled as normal. Pull off the trickle charger lead, stall - plug back in, no stall.
Took the bike in for the battery recall, was assured this would fix the problem. Week or so after, stalling again. If I regularly trickle charged, it would stave off the problem, but in any situation where I couldn't regularly charge I had the chance of having stall issues. If I shut the bike off and left it for a few hours, it would magically get better (how long seemed to vary) - trickle charge immediately "fixed" the problem.
Shortly before taking the bike back to the dealer again while I was having the stalling issue, I swapped the display over to show me voltage. The bike was dropping down into the low mid 12s at speed and in the mid-low 11s at idle (just before it would stall out). Later that day after the anti-stall fairy visited my bike while I was at work, the voltage was back into the mid-high 12s at idle, and in the 14s at speed.
Resolution (if any): Returned to dealer, of course the bike wasn't misbehaving at the time, and they guys couldn't find anything on the diagnostics at all. They made an educated guess based on my reports of what I'd seen and ordered a Voltage Regulator, and replaced under warranty. Since that time I've been riding for a couple of weeks, purposefully not trickle charging, and 0 stalls - I'm not 100% sure this has completely eliminated the problem, perhaps I've just been really lucky for a longer time than previous experience, but it has been long enough that I wanted to share this info JIC it could help someone else out.
My theory is that something was causing the voltage regulator to step down too low to run the fuel system at idle, and while that condition was in effect there was no way for the bike to keep running at idle. I think a new/freshly charged battery must have been keeping whatever caused the voltage regulator to shift from doing so, but after the base voltage slipped a bit, the gremlin would return until something like a shut/down restart or charge action jar the system back to normal operation.
I'll post again in a month or two if continued success, sooner obviously if there are further issues.