BMW G650X Issue Log (xCountry, xChallenge, xMoto)

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by andrewgore, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,181
    Location:
    Chambers Bay, WA
    Somber, WOW! The whole stalling thing being blamed on the Exide batteries never made sense to me. And putting in a fresh Yuasa or Odyssey curing the problem . . . ? Very puzzling.

    But this . . . this is great! Your theory makes perfect sense. The bad battery theory never made sense. Makes you wonder about BMW recalling all those batteries. I bet they got it all wrong. The whole time it's been a bad bunch of voltage regulators. And the voltage regulator is a cheap and easy repair. Oh, this is too good!

    :rofl
  2. lewiss66

    lewiss66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    381
    Location:
    French Alpes
    Resolution (if any): Returned to dealer, of course the bike wasn't misbehaving at the time, and they guys couldn't find anything on the diagnostics at all. They made an educated guess based on my reports of what I'd seen and ordered a Voltage Regulator, and replaced under warranty. Since that time I've been riding for a couple of weeks, purposefully not trickle charging, and 0 stalls - I'm not 100% sure this has completely eliminated the problem, perhaps I've just been really lucky for a longer time than previous experience, but it has been long enough that I wanted to share this info JIC it could help someone else out.

    Somber,
    Do you know how much they charge for a not under warranty regulator?
  3. urbancowboy

    urbancowboy Vicious Cycler

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,801
    Location:
    Laughing at Jerks in NYC
    not sure if stalling was the only electric related problem with these bikes. my xchallenge had STARTING problems when it was hot. ie in the middle of a ride during the summer.
    new odyssey battery = problem solved.
    i know a couple other people who had the same problem. maybe that's why bmw did a battery swap.
  4. Somber

    Somber Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    I'm sorry, I do not know. I know that the swap only took about 15 minutes, so the labor should be manageable if you don't want to do the swap yourself.

    I didn't see what they charged BMW warranty department, but Max BMW online parts catalog shows:

    P/N 61317707943 Voltage Regulator $146.22

    Hope that helps.
  5. Somber

    Somber Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    I really hope I'm right, or at least partly right and this helps people out, but I'm holding my breath... at least it gives people something to try if they are at wits end...
  6. Somber

    Somber Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    Yeah, certainly could be a couple different problems underlying the various seemingly related issues. I certainly am not against people taking advantage of the recall, hard to see how a fresh battery could be a bad thing.
  7. onemoreokie

    onemoreokie Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    29
    Hey Somber thanks for the update. I had my x-country down at BMW-OKC on Saturday for the same issue and got a new battery installed. They talked about you and your bike for a while but didn't mention the voltage regulator replacement. It's good to have another thing to try if the battery replacement doesn't work.

    My problems are identical to yours. It's been frustrating to have so little confidence in the bike.

    Thanks for your posts!
  8. DoucheBag

    DoucheBag feminine hygiene product

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    457
    Location:
    Jax, FL
    2007 X Ch. - Throttle locked wide open, would not retract... paper towel lodged in the throttle body... must of left it in there when I cleaned out the air box the other day :shog pulled it out and I'm good to go :ricky

    -DB
  9. apullin

    apullin Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
    My 2007 always stalls when started from cold. Runs for about 20 seconds, then stalls. Also, sometimes while driving it around, the bike would start stalling and not run unless throttle was held at 20% open.
    Battery recall did not fix problem.

    Took it to the dealers again, they updated the firmware on the ECU. The bike still stalls when started from cold 50% of the time, although the stalling while warm seems to not occur any more. ECU showed no fault codes.

    I have done a data log using my GS911 on the bike when it stalls upon starting from cold. The idle control valve pegs at 200 steps right when the bike stalls.

    Since the ECU shows no fault codes, and the failure is intermittent, it'll be difficult to get the dealer to fix it on warranty; if they can't reproduce the problem, then I'd have to pay for diagnosis labour, hundreds of $$.

    What are my options? I'm really frustrated by this problem, it's gone on way too long and taken too much of my time.
    - I'm considering pulling out the ECU, desoldering the chips and reading out the firmware. Maybe I can disassemble the code and reprogram to fix it myself. I do have an SMT soldering station and 24 channel logic analyzer in lab.
    - In light of the aforementioned voltage regulator problems, I might design a DC-DC converter board with a buck-boost converter, so proper running voltage will always be present.
    - Pull out the whole BMW EFI system, rebuild with a Haltech or Megasquirt based system.
    - If we can cast this as a safety problem, maybe we can organize a class action suit?
  10. lewiss66

    lewiss66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    381
    Location:
    French Alpes
    Did you check if the ignition switch is not causing the problem?
    Some have mentionned the ingnition switch cables that need to be soldered or reconnected causing intermittent connection.
    Did you check the voltage when the bike is cold at start ? Did they change the battery for a yuasa one? Might be the regulator working great only when warm.
    This storry makes me think the charging system works to produce enough juce to the battery to make the bike run correctly when warm. But if it was the new battery that went bad again then from cold the battery would'nt be able to handle the charge until the alternator system recharge it. So either your battery they replaced is toasted or something is discharging your battery when the bike is switch off.
    I had the same problem of stalling at cold due to a bad battery that pumps up to much juice from the regulator so that the ECU couldn't get enough juice to run the engine. I got a Yuasa and then runs perfect.
  11. onemoreokie

    onemoreokie Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    29

    The battery had zero effect on the intermittent stalling issue and the bike is back at the dealer for a voltage regulator (I hope that solves it). Time will tell!
  12. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,181
    Location:
    Chambers Bay, WA
    Please do remember to post up if the voltage regulator solves the problems. Very interested in this.
  13. onemoreokie

    onemoreokie Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    29
    Will do! I've had the bike a year and for the most part don't ride it unless
    I' ve just have taken it off the battery tender. It's sad really. I've had it down to the shop twice but they have not been able to do much since it hasn't thrown a fault code. I hope this is the final time. If not I'm going to take a bath sell it and buy a Japanese machine. I hate gremlins especially the electrical type!
  14. Somber

    Somber Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    I'm still stall free since the Voltage Regulator change (and I haven't had the battery tender on since having them do the swap), I'll keep my fingers crossed for you onemore...
  15. onemoreokie

    onemoreokie Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    29
    Thanks brother. They had lots of compliments for you and the ride down at the shop.
  16. jack splash

    jack splash Two Sheds

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,390
    Location:
    Pt Pleasant, NJ USA
    Hey: Used to be service manager at a MC dealship, Kaw, Suz,KTM, Maico. And now do Computer repair and network stuff.

    Sometimes a failed part will pass all the tests recommended by the manufacturer, but still be bad. The only way to find out which part is bad, is to swap them out one by one.

    For example: A Kaw nina900 would not start, the service manual had test for the various electronic ignition parts. Red to black wire = 10 ohms, blue to green = 15ohms etc. A unit would pass all the tests, but the bike still would not start. We replaced the CDI, whch passed the tests, with one from a bike in the showroom , and the bike started right up.

    IMHO, try replacing the VR, CDI and see if it fix'es the problem. IMHO, this is the only way to fix an intermittant, stubborn problem. It requires at least another bike, (every part you need ) or a great dealer to do this.

    Good Luck
    Jack
  17. bushmeister

    bushmeister x/c

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    evan,british columbia
    x challenge with 640 km.am i the only one who almost immolated the bike and myself by rupturing the fuel injection pressure line by coming down hard on the seat after air time?[the front left seat grommet was missing].replaced line.please help me to post a picture of my homemade rack & tank or direct me to where i can learn how.don't hate noobs ,you all started somewhere
  18. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,181
    Location:
    Chambers Bay, WA
    Yes, you are the first one. Replace the rubber cushion! It's almost as thick as the fuel line so without it your fuel line becomes your bumper.

    PM sent regarding how to post pics.
  19. paul_g

    paul_g Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    115
    2009 Xcountry

    I'm trying to drain the oil. Two quarts of it has come out from below, but the top filling reservoir is still full! Dipstick says full, and I can see it sloshing around in there.

    I saw the tube coming down from the bottom of the filling reservoir to the tank under the bike, and opened that up too, but it's just not draining.

    Can anyone tell me how to release that old oil?

    perplexed...

    Paul
  20. Bike#8

    Bike#8 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    178
    Location:
    Socal=Mt. Laguna & Palomar Mtn.> Now in Idaho Yea!
    At the bottom back of the oil tank you'll find a hollow bolt w/rubber cap on it. Open the rubber cap, attach a hose to the bolt. Make that hose drain into a container. Open the bolt w/10mm or 12mm wrench (I forget which size). Let oil drain into container.

    That is the hard way imo. I siphon the oil out of the tank w/clear tube. Or you can buy a siphon kit at the auto parts store. In any case the oil flows a lot better if it is warm. Make sure the screw in dipstick is out so you don't create a partial vacuum inside the tank.

    I hope this helps.