BMW G650X PowerCommander info & experiences (V and III models)

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by FinnDuro, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. The Jester

    The Jester Long timer

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    If you try Open Office it can open and edit pdf documents. I'm not sure if open office does, but I definitely have a program that will allow me to export text documents direct to a jpg. Worth looking for the feature.
    #81
  2. an13

    an13 Adventurer

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    Any Powercommander owner had a chance to run bike in a Dyno with full throttle? Curious that Powercommander web site does not show any Dyno charts. Would be very informational to see the real difference compared to stock.
    #82
  3. AZ-Twin

    AZ-Twin Dusty and Thirsty

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    The dynojet guys said there was little benefit at WOT, but I can't remember why, something about the stock map. I noticed more low end grunt. I just finished a 5K ride up the continental divide, I still got good gas mileage, unless I was hauling ass on a long piece of pavement at 90mph, then I got about 40mpg. Mostly I got over 50, and over 60 in the mountains, so my bike still adjusts for altitude just fine. I am happy with the PCV.

    How does the autotune work, does it continuously adjust the maps?
    #83
  4. Don't shoot me!!!

    Don't shoot me!!! Snowflakes are cold...

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    Yes.
    #84
  5. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    I decided to install a fuel map switch on my Xchallenge's Power Commander V.
    Warning: this task is easy, and you should try this at home. :D


    OK, on the Power Commander software installed on a computer, you can activate a configuration setting for a map switch. Once you activate that setting, you can then select a fuel map file, and send it to the PCV unit. Once you click "Send Map" on the software, it always asks you first whether you want to send the intended map to Map 1 or Map 2 position. Really simple. So you can load two separate, differently tuned maps to your bike. Me, I chose to put the advanced 002 map into Map1 position, and zero map (=stock setup, all values 0, no modifications to fueling) to Map2 position.

    You then need to install a simple on-off switch, in order to change from Map1 to Map2.

    The actual PCV unit in the bike has wire slots, one for Map 1 and one for Map 2. You hook up a thin wire on both of them. OK, these two wires then should go to opposite ends of a simple On/Off switch, which basically just connects or disconnetcs these two wires. That's it, it's that simple. You don't need to tap them into any external power source, the wires simply should be either connected or disconnected from each other. When the two wires are disconnected (Off), you have a Map 1 active. When you connect the two wires (On), Map 2 becomes active. The maps by the way change On The Fly, while bike is running. :deal


    Here's a pic on how I chose to install my switch.
    [​IMG]

    I did think about a nice handlebar located switch first for quick on-off-on-off-on-off etc. - but decided against it. I want to primarily run the bike with the rich map at all times possible (because it is so good!), and maybe very occasionally on longer tarmac rides turn it into zero map for lowest possible fuel consumption, or when I'm really low on fuel. I noticed a nice OEM location below the seat (where you could install the oem 12v accessory plug). It's close by my PCV unit itself with minimal wiring length needed, so there it went. Two wires from the PCV unit into the simple switch.

    Here's how it looks all buttoned up.
    [​IMG]

    Me likey, and as I said, it is a really simple installation & cost is next to nothing for this kind of setup. :freaky


    Added note. You can install this kind of map switch to either:
    1. Switch between AutoTune mode and some other fuel map (for those who have purchased the additional AutoTune module)
    2. Switch between Fuel map1 and Fuel map 2 (this is my setup).
    But you cannot have two swithces simultaneously installed, for setups 1 and 2 at the same time. It's either or.
    #85
  6. lewiss66

    lewiss66 Been here awhile

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    I wonder if someone has dyno test his bike with the Booster plug installed?
    Especially interested about the mixture figures. To know if the air/fuel ratio is good.
    Thanks
    #86
  7. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    thanks for this post, I completely tore my bike down and cleaned and reassembled over the last few months. Added a pcv and auto tune and found that after reassembly the bike would now die at idle, except it would only idle at 750-1000 rpm. I knew it wasn't the idle actuator as I had just cleaned it when I was in there. Anyway It would idle so low that it felt like the clutch was dragging, but when I rev a little all was well. I'll go back and correct the added fueling in the 0% throttle range. I've only had the auto tune running for two rides, I'm interested to find out if it has been trying to remove fueling in that range.

    I can tell you target AFR's in that range are at 13.2 which seems a bit rich to me. I'm thinking I may just load the stock map and let autotune add the fuel.
    #87
  8. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    I've since readjusted my zero throttle settings to 5% on those rpm settings. Did not notice much changes, it probably could affect exhaust popping on deceleration and avoid cold stalling also in decel situations. But I don't think it should change your actual idle rpms anyway, only the air/fuel mixture itself. If I were you, I'd recalibrate the idle actuator throttle settings (or re-do it) and see if it helps any. Also, if you've never done so, you may want to check your valve clearances - specifically look for too tight intake valves.

    I have an AutoTune unit coming way my in the mail as well, will be nice to start playing with it. :deal
    #88
  9. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    Where can you recalibrate the idle actuator? I saw a calibration for some throttle sensor (it was late, was not paying too much attention) is that what you're talking about? I'd planned on taking a second look at that this weekend when I have some time to work on it.

    I did the valves while I had it apart, so I know they're in spec. I may check them again this weekend since it's pretty easy. But I'm going to get some miles on it first and see what the autotune does. I did look at the autotune tables and it was removing almost all the fuel that was added at idle. I have since loaded the zero map and set my own target afrs, I'm going to let autotune do its thing and take it from there. I've got 16k miles on the stock fueling so I doubt it will do any harm. I'm working on getting an LCD unit so I can log and watch the afr in real time, but I don't know how soon that will happen. I'll keep you updated.

    Edit: Went back and checked and the sensor calibration I saw was the throttle position sensor. If there is some idle calibration I'd like to know about it as the bike is still idling at 750-900 rpm.
    #89
  10. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    Yeah, I did actually mean the throttle position calibration. :norton
    #90
  11. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    FWIW I now think my problem lies somewhere else. When I was putting the clutch cover back on I didn't replace the gasket, and the dealer had lightly rtv'd it the last time they were in there. Well I decided it would be a good idea to get some gasket material and cut my own gasket, which puts a couple of mm gap between the cover and the case. My clutch was dragging with the lever completely pulled in, and well out of the friction zone. Well I read some posts about people who had their clutch covers warp and cause the same symptoms. I'm hoping that that little added gap from the gasket material is causing my problem. I was going to dig into it tonight but I had a class all day, so I'll be pulling the cover off tomorrow, pulling my gasket out and lightly RTV'ing it again. I REALLY hope this is the source of my problem.. If not I'll be checking the valve clearance again, although I'm pretty much 100% on them being exactly in the middle of acceptable clearance.

    Anywho, hopefully that resolves THAT problem and I will be able to get on with the PCV and Autotune business.

    FWIW I did have to adjust the throttle position calibration as it was maxing out at 98% :thumb
    #91
  12. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    Well I've been playing with this auto tune for a little while now. I'm still fighting clutch drag which I may have narrowed down to warped clutch plates. Anyway here are some screenshots of the fueling autotune is coming up with. I started with the zero map and at first I had leaned out my target afr to high 13:s, but after reading a few articles on efi tuning and speaking with some local auto/moto tuners I set it back to 13.0:1 across the board. Which is richer than Dynojet's target afr's for the LV map. These are my map revisions so far. A few fuel ups between autotune table applications. I would say 150-200 miles. This is my "fun" bike so this is 90% aggressive riding.

    I noticed that the LV map adds fuel everywhere, but autotune seems to add fuel in the low end and take fuel out of the midrange and top end.

    Revision 1
    [​IMG]

    Revision 2
    [​IMG]

    Revision 3
    [​IMG]

    If anyone has anything to compare this to, please share. Thanks.
    #92
  13. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    talking to myself but thought I'd update on the information I posted above. It seems my power commander was displaying 50% of the actual rpm, which explains the correction only in the lower rpm range. I have since received a replacement, which turned out to have a completely different problem. The wire harness out the back of the pcv was damaged, and at certain angles would kill fuel to the bike.
    #93
  14. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    Keep posting, I for one read all of these. :) (By the way, those map images of yours are not showing.)

    I'm in the process of trying to diagnose a problem with the bike's crankshaft sensor (pulse sensor / pickup coil sensor / whatchacallit), which seems to give my PCV some problems. When bike warms up, it seems to lose some of the pickup coil pulse strenght, resulting in little annoying cut-offs when running with PCV. Without PCV, no problem. After talking to an old bmw bike tech, he suggested either trying out a new sensor, or seeing if the sensor could be adjusted just a tad closer = the coil to freewheel gap may be slightly off, like only 0.1-0.5 mm off or so could result in bike acting up sometimes.

    I purchased a 2nd hand pickup coil from Aprilia Pegaso, which shares almost identical Rotax with the Beemers, and that pickup coil is 100% the same. In fact, the pickup coils that I've seen, all look very much alike, very simple device. Hope to be able to run a test ride this weekend.
    #94
  15. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    That's strange, I can see the graphs. Maybe a photobucket issue. Although the information they contain is irrelevant at this point.

    Did you notice any metal shavings? I have heard of some cases where the starter sprag clutch would fail and leave metal shavings which would short the pickup coil.
    #95
  16. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    No problem with the sprag clutch or shavings shorting the coil. Little adjustment with the pickup coil position seemed to do the trick for now.
    :freaky
    #96
  17. lewiss66

    lewiss66 Been here awhile

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    Hi Mr F,
    Are you still fighting clutch drag?
    #97
  18. FinnDuro

    FinnDuro Winter wonderlanding

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    Nope. It went away with a fresh oil change and hard riding. :)
    #98
  19. Mr F

    Mr F I hear banjos.

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    It was partially due to the fact that I had placed the top plate in the back of the pack. Which is stupid on my part because I even took the plates out and rechecked them numerous times, and kept putting them in the right order and reinstalling them... except I would always reinstall them backwards. Also another part of the problem is the ASV clutch perch I was using. It's for a crf, and it didn't have enough adjustment to get the friction point out far enough. I ended up using a clutch perch from a yamaha r1 (i had short levers left over from my r1 that i sold) and that was perfect.

    If you or someone has recently serviced or removed the clutch pack then it's likely that it's not in the correct order. I don't remember the markings exactly, but each clutch fiber plate will have something on it like 3a or something to that effect, well one of them will be have a different marking, which may or may not have been 4a, that is the top plate.

    It could also be your perch, I initially ditched the stock perch for the same reason I ditched the ASV perch, not enough adjustment. With the OEM, unless the lever was pulled back right against the grip the clutch would not completely disengage.
    #99
  20. aprilian

    aprilian Can I change this?

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    My install is not going as smoothly. I just sent DJ an email with questions. Let me know if any of you know the answers.

    1) With bike off, I connected the USB cable. power commander v 1.0.6.1 recognizes the unit. trying to send the initial map, I get "send map aborted - invalid map type" - what am I missing?
    2) I am unable to turn on autotune option in PCV, it does not show up as a power commander configure choice and when I try to do it in the options section, it will not let me keep those changes. What do I need to do to enable the Autotune? I watched the download tutorial and my configure choices are quite different from the video choices. Is it possible that I can only make that configuration change with the bike on so the autotune is powered up and recognized by the PCV?
    3) the BMW G650x maps that I downloaded have 2 cylinders, but this bike is a single - does the PCV only end up using one cylinder's map? which one?
    4) when I activate the Auto tune will the AFR chart have recommended AFR targets or do I need to populate the chart? if so, should I start at 13.2 in all cells and see what happens to the mileage? actually, I know some cells are supposed to remain at 0.0 so where can I find those specifics?
    5) do I have to do anything in the software before I disconnect the cable?