2 Available (12/04/2016) Brembo conversion for BMW R100GS-To convert the two pot caliper to a four pot Brembo caliper. Caliper has been fully disassembled cleaned and inspected, mounting tabs milled, seals have been cleaned and inspected and replaced as needed with good used seals, pistons are inspected and buffed, reassembled and pressure checked for leaks. Nice factory looking fit, direct bolt on kit. No modifications needed can use existing brake lines. I suggest Galfer Green Pads (FD198G1651) (FD 198G 1532 )and a braided brake line for best results.. Or pads of your choice which match up with K1100XX, R1100XX, R110GS or R1200C. Caliper Only $215.00 ( $15 S&H ) (Sold Out) Caliper w/ EBC Organic Pads $265.00 (+$15 S&H) (Two) 1991-95 Caliper w/ Galfer Pads & Braided Stainless Line, MC Banjo Fitting $315 (+$15 S&H) (Sold out) 1987-90Caliper w/ Galfer Pads & Braided Stainless Line $315 (+$15 S&H) (Sold Out) Sales only to the USA Personal check or money order OKOr Pay Pal add $12.00, to avoid PayPal fees pay as a gift or now I think it's choose send money to friend or family option. Contact me for how to send payment. For Visual reference only, may not be the lines included. NOTE-All brake lines are standard length, no returns on lines!!!!! In purchasing buyer and/or user agrees to "fine print" below. please read the fine print any questions about this or the calipers please ask. The "Fine Print" Please note-In purchasing caliper and/or pads or brake line, the buyer and/or user agrees to the following and assumes ALL risk in the use of purchased parts- The caliper is a used modified part and it is the purchaser's sole responsibility to check function of part and assumes all risk in it's use. Seller is not responsible for any property damage monetary and/or bodily and/or mental injury damage caused by brake caliper, lines or pad. Brake Line Notes- The stock length for 1991-95 line is 31.5" (800mm) with banjo fitting at brake master cylinder, For the early 1987-90 is 25.75" (655mm) with female threads at MC. I've purchased stainless steel brakes line from Rennsport Auto (Rennsport Order Form) off Ebay for a decent price especially if you compare prices to Speigler or Goodridge Lines, but Motobins has a good price too. If using bar risers line length maybe longer. Rennsport Lines- Early Brake Line ('87-90) Fittings- #10 10mm male 1.0 thread concave .......................................................#7 10mm female 1.0 thread convex inner .................25.75" line Late Brake Line ('91-95) Fittings- #3 10mm 15 degree Banjo .......................................................#7 10mm female 1.0 convex inner ..........................31.5" line Note it is best to terminate the flexible line at the steel brake line to the caliper as it keeps the flexible line behind the fork out of the way of getting snagged on something. Master cylinder Notes- There are two different master cylinders, the early style (1987-90) like on the R80 G/S in which the line threads directly into the MC and the later (1991-95) which has a banjo bolt which threads in. Early MC bores- 1980-90 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm (Motobins list all 5 bores), 12mm R80 G/S, 13mm R100GS Late MC bores- 1991-95- 13mm Brake Rotor Notes- Over the years I've had problems with brake pads squealing, due to glazing of the rotor. A brake rotor hone (80 grit) will knock the glazing off and leaves the rotor a little roughed up. This is better than using sand paper. A less expensive alternate to the stock BMW rotor is the EBC rotor. Ted Porter has had these at a competitive price. Misc Notes- Pads, Bleeding- Brake Pads- I prefer organic pads, these seem to offer good braking and little to no wear to the rotor, Galfer Green Pads or EBC. Pads to fit are from any years- K1100 RS/LT, R1100RS/RT, R1100GS and R1200C. Bleeding Notes- Calipers have been split and a new oversize o-ring has been used. It is very unlikely that leaks are occurring between the halves. I haven’t had one leak yet even the few which have been returned as suspect fort leaking. Most noted complaints are that when applying brakes the two halves flex and forces any fluid which has gotten between the haves during bleeding up and out around the seams. I’ve argued about this with a few people who swear NO Fluid leaked from the bleeder down. Well it happens no matter how careful you are. Three helpful hints on bleeding, after having bled in the traditional way, 1) it is seems to help if the caliper bolts are loosened and the bleeder rotated up to the 12 o’clock position during bleeding. 2) Tapping caliper with a rubber hammer or block of wood to free bubbles from the inner cavities. 3) Once final bleed has occurred pump up lever and zip tie lever back over night. If you want a license plate frame I can include one for an extra $5.00. Please double check size to make sure it will fit as some states have different dimensions.