Bolt removal.

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Sabre170, Sep 28, 2013.

  1. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Mar 22, 2011
    Silver Spring, Md
    Blame Plaka. It's usually him or me. This time it might be both of us tho.
  2. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

    Jun 25, 2009
    Albury Australia
    Proppin' each other up eh'?
  3. 100RT

    100RT Long timer

    Nov 4, 2009
    N. E. OHIO
    The purpose of the stud is to hang the gearbox on when installing it. I removed the one in my 81 RT and replaced it with a bolt. There is a product out called Freeze which may help in the removal of the stud along with heating the engine case. Heat the case and Freeze the stud.

    Different companies call it by different names. Here is one made by Wurth.
  4. jackd

    jackd Long timer

    Dec 9, 2006
    The Island
  5. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Sep 9, 2010
    San Francisco Bay area
    There are different size taps for different thread fits. Kinda like C1, C2, and C3 bearings but different but as far as I know the thread tap used for that stud is standard. The stud has just been their for a long time! A lot of transmission threads in airheads have coil inserts (Helicoiled is a brand name) from the factory. Hitting the stud real hard first is good advise as is using a lot of heat. It's going to take an oxygen/acetylene welder. The case soaks up too much heat for lesser flames to get it hot enough. What hasn't been mentioned is the correct tool: A stud remover. Snap On's are good ones IMO.

    Every one row radial has an odd number of cylinders for the master rod being the odd one out. The other rods are called articulated rods. The rod pins on the master rod are just like the piston pins. On all but the very small radials, the master rod is one piece and the crank is pressed together. Otherwise the master rod will break. Warner Scarabs that I use to work on had two piece master rods. Under 500 ci if I remember right. Above around 500 ci radials have one piece master rods. Bigger engines that I mostly worked on were Wright Whirlwinds and all of them had one piece master rods. Rotaries have the exact same crankshaft layout as radials. The engine case is attached to the airframe on radials and the crankshaft is attached to the airframe on rotaries. The crankshaft spins in the former and the engine spins ON the latter hence the prop is attached to the crankshaft on a radial and to the engine case on a rotary.

    The power output of those rotaries is still unobtainable and gasoline during WWI was around 50 to 60 octane! 110hp at 1100rpm is a LOT of power! (Torque.) That's why most all rotary powered WWI replicas are 3/4 scale. No one makes a modern engine light enough AND powerful enough to fly a full scale replica.

    Harleys and such are the only MC engines somewhat like a radial in having the cylinders in line and therein lies their weak spot: their fork and knife rod setup.
  6. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

    Apr 4, 2013
    Fort Collins, CO