Bosnia and Montenegro Re-Revisited – Gravel Edition

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Damir, Aug 22, 2010.

  1. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    After the last year ride http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507024 Dad and I felt that there are so many more cool roads to explore in the area so we decided to return this year. This time the goal was to ride as much gravel as possible.

    Route:


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    First day started with quite a boring ride from Karlovac (Croatia) to Bihac (Bosnia and Herzegovina). We hit first short gravel section just to test how well is our stuff strapped on the bikes.


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    Soon after we turned towards Drvar nad Sator Mountain. Gravel road strats just after Drvar and in village called Rore we turn towards Sator. I did the same route some time ago with my friends but still we managed to miss one turn.


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    After Sator we continued on the main roads towards Livno and Citluk where we stopped for the night.


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    On the second day we start towards Nevesinje and soon after we were on gravel again. Road heads across Morine pass.


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    Landscape is beautiful, we expected that we will be riding trough woods, but we were pleasantly surprised.


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    We met few locals and had chat with them.


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    We filled our tanks in Kalinovik and went to the gravel again. Guy at the petrol station told us that road across Zelengora is in quite bad shape.

    Zelengora is part of Sutjeska National Park and area is also known as the scene of one of the grimmest battles between Partisans and Axis forces during WW II. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_the_Sutjeska

    There were few difficult places, but nothing serious, dad dropped his bike on one steep section and I got stuck on the same section.


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    After Orlovacko Lake was another steep section with large rocks but nothing really hard.


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    Way down was quite easy.


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    Finally we reached hotel at Tjentiste, had a beer and really bad dinner and went to sleep.


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    #1
  2. enduro Dan

    enduro Dan Sticks and Stones™..

    Joined:
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    Orchard Park,NY
    :wave
    #2
  3. BigMark

    BigMark Master Of Sophism

    Joined:
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    Europe
    Excellent. :evil
    As you know, I have been looking forward to this :freaky

    Looks like perfect heavy Dual Sports location.

    Which maps do you use for the Balkans?
    #3
  4. the venturer

    the venturer Long timer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Thrace and Istanbul
    Another ride of a father and son.:clap
    Glad to see you on TKCs Damir.
    Safe Rides.
    #4
  5. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Third day was mainly spent exploring roads around Tjentiste.

    Main monument commemorating the battle is visible from main road.

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    We have to pay 6 Bosnian KM (approx. 3 Euro) to enter National Park. First we went towards Ozren where Tito http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tito was wounded. Road is unmaintained and whole place is in sad state.

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    Next destination were Donje Bare, scene of one of hardest battles during the offensive where Partisans from Croatian Dalmatian Islands (2. Dalmatian Brigade) held their ground for crucial few days allowing rest of the forces to retreat.

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    We met only one vehicle on the road but it was a huge one.

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    There were also few friendly guys cutting wood in nearby forests.

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    The ruins supposedly were Tito's hunting lodge built after WW II.

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    I had to take picture of this work of art. :D

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    Along the way we also stopped by Sava Kovacevic's grave. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sava_Kova%C4%8Devi%C4%87_%28Yugoslav_Partisan%29

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    We went back towards main road and then turned on gravel towards Dragos Sedlo. We stopped and took five minute walk to see Skakavac (Grasshopper) Waterfall. When we came back, we noticed another rider on GSA. Franz from Austria was on tour trough the region. We all know how it usually goes, introduction, then comparing routes, maps all over the place, this road, that road...:freaky At the end we agreed that we will try to meet next day in the morning to ride some roads in Durmitor region of Montenegro.

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    We headed towards Vucevo Plateau and we met Franz again so we decided to go together towards eco village in Crikvicko Polje where we arranged accommodation. It proved to be good decision as we enjoyed three days of fantastic hospitality, good food and wonderful nature, but more on that later.

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    It was time for dinner and rest before hitting the roads on Durmitor next day in the morning.

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    #5
  6. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    766
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    :clap
    #6
  7. Dessert Storm

    Dessert Storm Dances With Drunks

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    Off route, recalculating
    Fantastic report and photos! :clap
    #7
  8. Darryl625

    Darryl625 Adventurer

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    Bunbury WA
    Great stuff nice part of the world.
    #8
  9. ArthDuro

    ArthDuro quarantined

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    :lurk

    sad cekam Durmitor
    nemas pojma koliko volim citat tvjoe RRs
    #9
  10. M.Mars

    M.Mars híppos leukós

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    Croatia-Morocco-NYC
    Prva liga decki, samo tako nastavite !!:freaky
    #10
  11. Hatch

    Hatch PAR OG

    Joined:
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    on the road again!
    dude, cooooool:thumb

    some serious history in those photos!
    #11
  12. klaviator

    klaviator Long timer

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    Looks like some great riding and great scenery. Thanks for posting:thumb
    #12
  13. YukonTracker

    YukonTracker Ride your Way

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2008
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    Location:
    Yukon
    Talking about wicked gravel roads! No wonder horses were used for so long before two wheelers were invented!:lol3 Thanks, that looks like one hell of a ride.
    #13
  14. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Day started with Susica Canyon. On the bottom there is a lake and a river coming out of it, but it is usually completely dry during the summer, so we had a walk on the bottom of the lake.

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    It was the hardest road we took during this ride, there were few tricky spots on the way up. Dad dropped his bike twice but without serious damage to bike or himself.

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    Rest of the day was spent cruising around Durmitor area http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durmitor visiting famous landmarks in the area. Djurdjevica Tara Bridge http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C4%90ur%C4%91evi%C4%87a_Tara_Bridge Durmitorsko Sedlo pass and Mratinje Dam http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mratinje_Dam among the others.

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    Whole area is fantastic and it should be visited as soon as possible because it will be full of tourists in upcoming years. You can see the crowds on the bridge. Franz was ideal riding partner and we hope there will be more chances to ride together in the future.
    #14
  15. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Orlovacko Lake panorama (from day two).

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    #15
  16. BlueDreamWay

    BlueDreamWay Been here awhile

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    İstanbul / Turkiye
    nice pics:lurk
    #16
  17. RacingMike

    RacingMike Adventurer Wannabe

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    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    bice report!
    like your pics too :-)
    would like to go there one day!
    #17
  18. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
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    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Franz just sent me some of his pictures. :wave:thumb

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    #18
  19. stoner hr

    stoner hr Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Đakovo,Croatia
    Nice ride:clap !

    You father is,regardless of age,quite diligent in off road riding on a big GS!
    #19
  20. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    We decided to take "day off" from riding, so we went for rafting on Tara River. Unfortunately we didn't take our cameras so no pictures.

    After five days of enjoying it was time to head home. First we sad goodbye to our host, Jovan. We were amazed with hospitality, good food and very fair price at the end.

    http://www.ekoseloyu.com/kontakt/kontakt.htm

    Few random pictures from the place.

    Jovan

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    Then it was time to say goodbye to Franz and head towards Sarajevo. We didn't want to go trough city so we made turn towards Bjelasnica mountain. Bjelasnica was scene of man's skiing races during Sarajevo Olympics in 1984. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarajevo_Olympics.

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    In 1985 my parents and I were traveling back from holidays on Adriatic Coast and we slept in this hotel. I remember watching Live Aid on TV there, so we stopped by to take a picture.

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    This is all. Few hundred kilometers later we were back in Karlovac. Franz also arrived safely home week later.

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    Thanks for reading!
    #20