Bosnia & Montenegro revisited

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Damir, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    My father and I decided to go for five day ride trough Bosnia (and Herzegovina) and Montenegro. I did similar trip with my friends two years ago.

    You can find RR here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243240

    My Dad and I have been around bikes for our whole lives. This picture is from 1953. Dad on his father’s bike.

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    It all started with my late grandfather. Bike on the picture was built from WWII BMW military engine and prewar frame and gearbox. Life after WWII in Yugoslavia was hard, but grandfather was skilled mechanic and he and his friends always managed to improvise something to manufacture missing and damaged parts.

    Grandfather also raced sidecars in some local races. He is standing on the right side of number 100 bike (dark leathers).

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    This is me on my father’s bike in 1973. My mom is holding me.

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    OK, enough about us, let’s start with the trip.

    Plan for the first day is to ride from Karlovac (Cro, 50 km from Zagreb) to Sarajevo.

    Ready to go.

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    We crossed into Bosnia and Herzegovina near Bihac after one hour of riding. Few pictures from the border crossing.

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    After obtaining some local currency in Bihac we headed towards Drvar, place of (locally, ex Yu) famous attempt by German paratroopers to capture partisan leader Tito during WWII.

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    I did short RR about Drvar some time ago. Here is the link: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336513

    After Drvar we left the main roads.

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    Then it was time for first gravel section. 30 km of nice road and amazing surroundings.

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    We reached Livno and started to move east towards Sarajevo. There is almost no traffic.

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    There is artificial lake near Rama, dam was built in 1960es. We had a nice chat with local man. He and his grandson were interested in bikes, and we were interested in area, roads and living in Rama in general.

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    Late afternoon we reached Jablanica, place of famous for its role in WWII Fourth anti-Partisan Offensive, while it is also known as the Fourth Enemy Offensive (Cetvrta neprijateljska ofenziva/ofanziva) or the Battle for the Wounded (Bitka za ranjenike) in ex-Yugoslav sources.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_the_Neretva

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    In fact, we were moving along the areas where battle took place whole first day.

    There was still some riding left to reach Sarajevo, rain started to fall and it was getting late so we just took the main road.

    It was time for dinner, when in Sarajevo you should try chevap. Picture is from RR mentioned at the beginning because it was dark and raining so I didn’t try to make food pictures this time.

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    Route for the first day.

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    To be continued…
    #1
  2. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    61,694
    Wow Damir, you have quite the family motorcycling heritage :bow

    Thanks for the intro and taking us along on another one of your great journeys.

    :lurk
    #2
  3. Kodanja

    Kodanja Been here awhile

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    Boise, Idaho
    Awesome! I love the family history and pictures. Keep it up!
    #3
  4. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    379
    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    After breakfast we were ready to hit the road again.

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    We decided to take little detour and pass trough nearby mountains. Igman was scene of ski jumping competition during Sarajevo Olympics in 1984. It was also frontline during the siege of Sarajevo.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igman

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    Military cemetery

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    Dad used to stay in this hotel during his visits to Sarajevo in 1980es.

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    After Igman we headed towards Eastern Bosnia.

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    Our next destination was Tjentiste. Back to WWII, after failing to destroy partisans during 4th offensive, Germans prepared new effort, codenamed Schwartz (black).

    Quote from Wikipedia: The battle marked a turning point toward Allied control of Yugoslavia, and became an integral part of the Yugoslav post-war mythology, celebrating the self-sacrifice, extreme suffering and moral firmness of the partisans.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_the_Sutjeska

    Wikipedia article has some serious mistakes, for example: there was no Greek forces there, and Order of battle is not accurate, instead of 3rd Dalmatian Brigade there was 2nd but it is still quite good short overview of events.

    These events are now mainly forgotten. Whole complex is in sad state.

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    Area also has stunningly beautiful nature and lot of gravel roads. I hope we will be able to come back next year to explore the whole area.

    http://www.bhtourism.ba/eng/sutjeskanp.wbsp


    After Tjentiste we headed back towards Foca to cross Drina River and proceed towards Montenegro.

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    River Piva valley is absolutely magnificent, I was there in 2007. It was first time for my dad and he was amazed with stunning views and nice road.

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    We reached Mratinje dam. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mratinje_Dam

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    Few kilometers after the dam we turned towards Durmitor Mountain.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durmitor


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    Climbing…

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    It was late afternoon, rain started to fall and it was bitterly cold.

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    Finally we reached Durmitorsko Sedlo pass, it is 1907 meters high. Temperature was 5 degrees centigrade, it was snowing lightly and winds were very strong. I tried to take few pictures, but they are all bad. I was too busy trying not to fall down because of wind.

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    Then I asked dad: “How are you doing?” He was grinning under his helmet and said: “This is so much better than Alps”. :D


    Few pictures from my 07 trip, just to see how road looks in nice weather. Road was sealed in 07 few months after we were there.

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    There were 10 more km of descent before we reached our hotel in Zabljak.

    Route

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    To be continued…
    #4
  5. E-man

    E-man 4-4-09, 12-6-09, 1-13-10

    Joined:
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    Awesome pics
    Thanks
    #5
  6. ArthDuro

    ArthDuro quarantined

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    :clap
    #6
  7. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

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    Hi Arth,

    Kada ces ti do domovine? :D

    When are you going to visit homeland?
    #7
  8. Direktor

    Direktor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
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    605
    Location:
    Karlovac, Croatia
    I didn't know that there was a local bike race in Karlovac, this picture was taken in very center of Karlovac!
    Nice RR and pics of course! :thumb

    Pudla you are the best PR for Karlovačko beer :D
    When are you planning to drop for a couple of beers?
    #8
  9. achesley

    achesley Old Motorcyclist

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Jennings, Louisiana
    Awesome pictures and report. Thanks for the work of sharing this fine journey with us. Keep it coming. :clap :clap :clap
    #9
  10. picoda

    picoda Dalmatia

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
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    Location:
    Croatia
    Veeeery nice! :thumb

    Odlicno! Ovo je sad frisko bilo?
    #10
  11. Jaša

    Jaša EKK

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Koper, Slovenija, EU
    nice pics!

    Durmitor is really fantastic!
    Only problem is, that on motorbike you need only few hours to see it.
    The real beauty is when you're visting it on foot.

    Cheers
    Jaša
    #11
  12. JohnyCakes

    JohnyCakes Been here awhile

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    Location:
    LI, New York
    Odlicne slike Damire.

    Ovo ljeto nisam mogo doc u Hrvatsku..mozda se vidimo drugo ljeto prijatelju.

    (I speak Croatian fluently, but make some mistakes when writing, so excuse any that I have made...I'm sure you understood me.) :freaky
    #12
  13. Goran69

    Goran69 MNE

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    Location:
    Montenegro Europe
    Hey Damir, I am so sorry that I was not able to see you while you were in Montenegro. Great pics. IN next few weekends I will go to see Sutjeska and Tjentiste.
    #13
  14. Gaston Gagne

    Gaston Gagne Past Easy

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    Wow! Love the food picture. That's what I would eat.
    #14
  15. Gookas

    Gookas Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Ohio
    Is this Durmitor mountain? The geologic structure in this pic is awesome! Nice RR looking forward to more.
    #15
  16. zakou

    zakou Been here awhile

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    Its always great to read your reports Damir!! Its been some time now!!
    #16
  17. Damir

    Damir AKA Pudla

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Zagreb, Croatia
    Thank you all.

    2 Street
    PM me your number and I will call you when I come to Karlovac. :freaky

    2 picoda
    Skroz frisko, od petka do utorka. We were there from 11. to 15.09.

    2 Jaša
    I am thinking about starting to hike. :D

    2 Johny
    Picoda ti je vec rekao, ti samo dodji a ostatak prepusti nama. :ricky :freaky
    2 Goran
    I was sitting beside Gasho when you called him. Sutjeska is fantastic, I really wanted to go to Dragos Sedlo and Donje Bare but we did not have the time. It is in fact not bad, now we got reason to come back. :D

    2 Gookas
    http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154418/pruta-.html

    2 zakou
    Hi, when are you coming back to this part of the world? :D
    #17
  18. byker_tr

    byker_tr Fenabahce

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Fenerbahce Cumhuriyeti , Bursa - TURKIYE
    i hope i'll share with my son when he grows up, what you are sharing with your dad :freaky

    Dumitor National park is an awesome ride. i am enjoying it again with your photos.
    #18
  19. franken

    franken Been here awhile

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    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    Hi Damir

    again a superb report. Great pics. :clap

    Andreas
    #19
  20. SS in Vzla.

    SS in Vzla. Totally Normal? I'm not!

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Looks like a very nice ride you had.
    Great scenery and roads.
    And to be able to share it with your father... priceless!
    :clap
    #20