Bringing my r65 Back to Life...

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by azcycle, Oct 7, 2011.

  1. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Both the pressure plate and pressure ring seemed to measure level and fine across multiple areas. Nice and flat all the way around.

    When you say "measure the oil pump cover" what exactly do you mean? Measure what? I can definitely feel the worn areas with my fingernail so I might just replace the cover. As long as just replacing it is fine... is there some measurement with the oil pump itself that I have to do?

    After looking at the teeth of the flywheel, I came to that conclusion as well... it has to be from the starter teeth. They look fine as far as I can tell, but I should probably remove the starter and clean/re-grease it. Is there any way to remove the starter without having to remove the front cover area? I've already got the crank blocked and I suppose I'd have to wait until the new transmission is back in before I unblock the crank and remove the starter.
    #21
  2. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
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    San Francisco Bay area
    The pump covers are cheap and an important part of being able to build pressure. I would replace it. I meant measure the pump. I mainly just go by how they look. The lobes should be almost perfect. If they are marked up much, put a new pump in. Of course, I would look around for the source of the whatever it is scaring up your engine.
    #22
  3. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Yep, new oil pump cover already ordered along with my other goodies. I'll take a closer look at the lobes but at a glance, they look just fine.
    #23
  4. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Big update! I was thwarted by the transmission neutral switch/ground wiring loom and couldn't finish as much as I wanted to last weekend. As I was putting the new transmission back in, I noticed the neutral switch wires were twisted and nicked, and one just broke off in my hand. So I had to order a new one and wait for it to come in.

    This is what I got down last weekend....

    Setting the seal depth:
    [​IMG]

    Pulling the old seal out. I noticed that the "old" seal is the exact same type as the new seal I purchased, so it had been redone in the past.
    [​IMG]

    More evidence it had been done in the past. A previous owner nicked the inside face a bit removing the old seal. It was definitely noticeable and I wasn't confident I could do a nice job adding some metal repair putty stuff. So I sanded it very gently with a high-grain sandpaper until I could barely feel it. Hope that is good enough.
    [​IMG]

    New main seal seated:
    [​IMG]


    New oil pump cover, guide ring O-ring, and main seal in place. I had a bit of a problem with the lower right oil pump cover bolt. The threads at the very edge of the hole were damaged/cross-threaded and I couldn't get any bolt to start correctly. It would catch and immediately angle slightly. I didn't want to damage the threads so I bought a thread tap and gently screwed it in. Worked like a charm!
    [​IMG]

    New friction plate and spring:
    [​IMG]

    And I didn't take any photos but I got the clutch assembly together, used the alignment tool (glad I had that!) and got it all together. I didn't actually have a hex bolt fitting for my torque wrench so I just tightened them down by hand to what I thought was about 10lbs of torque.
    #24
  5. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    And a very successful day today working on the r65! New transmission installed and filled with fresh gear oil, oil change, new oil pan gasket, final drive cleaned/greased/installed, rear brake cleaned and reinstalled, airbox, battery and seat installed. Sorry for the crappy pics. My small digi-camera I use for such projects died, and all I had to use was my iphone.

    White crayon on the timing marks. The OT was only partially punched so only part of the T and the alignment line above it were deep enough to hold any crayon.
    [​IMG]

    New transmission splines greased with Honda Moly60, and prepared to get mated up with the new clutch.
    [​IMG]

    Old airbox breather vent (right) and new (left):
    [​IMG]

    Mmmm.... new transmission. New oil breather hose, and neutral switch wiring loom.
    [​IMG]

    BEFORE. The r65 had a really terrible rear brake... barely even slowed the bike, let alone stop it. I think a previous owner (hopefully not my FIL) used the wrong spline grease, and it got flung everywhere, soaking into the brake pads, etc.
    [​IMG]

    AFTER a good cleaning of the brake drum. Also lightly scuffed the drum surface with sandpaper. Also took the time to clean the wheel and spokes. Ugh, that was tedious.
    [​IMG]

    Final drive with good splines and very dirty, contaminated brake shoes. The pads were dark and REALLY glazed over.
    [​IMG]

    After a good cleaning. Degreased the brake shoes and scuffed them up a bit with sandpaper. Honda moly60 applied.
    [​IMG]

    Torquing down the driveshaft bolts to the transmission output, with blue locktite, and NEW bolts, of course. The brake felt SO much better and I could actually lock the rear wheel with the pedal. I couldn't do that before because of the brake shoes.
    [​IMG]

    Not much space in there. The special tool I purchased just for this purpose was WELL worth it!
    [​IMG]

    "New" transmission shifted okay, but I drained the old fluid (was nice and clean) and the drain bolt showed no significant buildup of metal shavings. Only found a couple small slivers. When reinstalling the shifter and footrest, I did notice that the gear shifter input seal MIGHT be slightly weeping gear oil. Will keep an eye on it.
    [​IMG]

    She's almost ready to roll! It was such a nice feeling to be able to shift smoothly through the gears and see the rear wheel turn!
    [​IMG]


    Tomorrow I'm up early and hope to get the rest done: Strip/repaint valve covers, new stainless brake lines up front, and carb(s) rebuilt.
    #25
  6. Ben Carufel

    Ben Carufel Boxer Addict

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    899
    Location:
    San Diego
    Looks great! I dig the seat!
    #26
  7. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Oddometer:
    9,116
    Location:
    San Francisco Bay area
    Just like I always point out: That crank breather will make a mess. Some people actually reconnect the hose to the airbox without the rest of the crank breather crap and that eventually makes a giant mess as well. All that oil would eventually had your clutch slipping. You need to run that vent to a tank, out the back, or get the stock setup replaced.
    #27
  8. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Well it's all buttoned back up, with the crank breather properly attached back into the airbox. I purchased a new airbox vent valve so hopefully that will help a bit. But I see your point in venting it externally. Two weeks without an update, but now she's all ready to ride! Last weekend I rebuilt the carbs. What first greeted me... a nicely stripped screw which I bunged up even worse. Managed to get it removed through lots of PB Blaster, drilling, and hammering with a hardened slot screwdriver. It made enough of a notch that I could get a bite.
    [​IMG]

    And just to refresh your memory. Before:
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]

    While I wasn't able to get out and ride yesterday due to mother nature deciding we needed rain ALL DAY. In a place that averages 360 days of sunshine, I was frustrated that I wasn't able to go for a break-in ride. But on the other hand, I was glad to see our parched desert get a much-needed soaking. We gotta water all those golf courses, right? [​IMG]

    So to the sound of rain pattering on the garage roof, I removed, stripped, cleaned, and repainted the valve covers and installed new brake lines, then bled. With new valve cover gaskets, I hope to solve the annoying slow drip from both sides.
    [​IMG]

    After, but before I sanded the horizontal fins:. I'm sure my neighbors didn't appreciate hearing the buzz of my electric sander at 7 in the morning. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And I got to my first brake bleeding job EVER. It wasn't quite as frustrating as I thought it would be, though there were a time or two when I ground my teeth. I purchased a couple speed bleeders to help with the process.

    First off, the system was NASTY. I'm scared in hindsight just thinking about me riding last year with the brakes that looked this bad. :puke1 I first bled the left caliper and there was so much muck in the system that as I pumped new fluid in, it just pushed the nasty stuff up into the master cylinder. Brown fluid with bits of rubber lining. It took quite a few flushes to get it all out. Additionally, I think there was something wrong with the left-side speed bleeder, as it didn't behave as normal. I thought "aren't these supposed to make the process easier?" But it simply wouldn't work well. I actually had to use it like a traditional bleeder and tighten/loosen by hand between pumping. But eventually I got it bled. Thankfully, the right caliper bled like a dream! It literally took 5-minutes with the speed bleeder.

    But I think I got it, and the feel on the lever is nice and firm. A world of difference. Makes sense considering this is what came out:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks to all of you with your advice and patience as I worked my way through this, which I know is "old hat" to many of you. I learned a lot about the bike, and now am nowhere NEAR as intimidated about it. I have no fear about working on it now.

    I will save my Vapor digital speedo/dashboard install for a later date. My intent was to get her back on the road. And just in time, as tomorrow (11/15/2012) will be the two-year anniversary of my father-in-law's passing. (Most of you don't know that I inherited this bike from him when he passed. I rode it for a year until the splines stripped.) I'm going to ride the bike to work in his memory tomorrow. I think he'd be proud of what I accomplished. RIP John.

    [​IMG]
    #28
  9. Ben Carufel

    Ben Carufel Boxer Addict

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    899
    Location:
    San Diego

    That's too cool. Did you ride to work today? How was it?
    #29
  10. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    8,169
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    Atlanta
    Hope you had a nice ride yesterday. FYI, if you still have a leak at the valve cover, look at these: valve gasket.
    #30
  11. Kurt V

    Kurt V Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    235
    Location:
    Jefferson City, MO
    Nice write up and that is just a great looking R65!
    #31
  12. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Thanks, all!

    Unfortunately, I was not able to ride in yesterday. I began the startup process and as I was doing so, noticed a huge (and growing) puddle of fuel on my left foot. The left carb was leaking gas like crazy. When I cleaned the carb, I didn't do a thorough replace of all the pieces, so I suspected it was the float needle. Sure enough, it was worn to the point of not sealing. And because I don't know how old the floats really are, just decided to do a "real" rebuild.

    So I pushed the bike back into the garage and took the Mustang to work (which is also quite a bit of fun!) I ordered a complete rebuild kit from Bing yesterday and plan on tearing the carbs down again this weekend. This time I'll replace everything and start from scratch.
    #32
  13. Sergeant Joe

    Sergeant Joe Sitrep=Snafu

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    244
    Location:
    Tasmania,Australia
    Very nice mate. :clap
    #33
  14. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Carb kits didn't arrive on Saturday when I thought they would. With family in town, I doubt I'm going to get to the carbs before Thanksgiving. Bummer... another week with no riding!
    #34
  15. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    It's alive!


    I tore into the carbs again yesterday while my wife and mother went Christmas shopping and my father was involved in a good book. I saw that I didn't clean them as well as I should have the first time, so they got another cleaning, and with all new o-rings, floats, pins, etc. I was hoping for a quick start.

    Hooked 'em up, turned on the gas and proceeded to watch fuel pour down the left carb and onto the garage floor, just as before. I did some inspecting and noticed that the tiny piece of original braided fuel line below the "T" that feeds the left carb was soaking wet. Fuel was then flowing down around the carb bowl, which is what originally led me to think the floats were shot and overflowing the bowl. But on closer inspection, the hose had been kinked over the years and had split. I just couldn't see it under the braiding. I replaced it with some new line, adjusted the settings, and she fired up and ran right away. Took her around the block once or twice to tweak settings.

    So happy! She shifts great, and pulls STRONG. Those carbs were obviously in great need of rebuilding. Back brake still sucks. New braided front brake lines are so much better!

    Just in time... going to ride to work tomorrow!
    #35
  16. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    No more updates?

    Tipsy
    #36
  17. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Sorry, I've been having too much fun riding! The "new" transmission feels pretty good, even missing a shift here and there ... mostly due to user-error (I hope). I've yet to drain the fluid and check for metally-bits, though that is going to happen soon. I still need to have a friend fabricate a Trailtech/ignition lock/key mount so I can get it installed. Need to do that soon, and when I do, I'll post up here.

    The only negative from all of this is the damn valve covers. They've warped enough that both sides just drip oil constantly. Each time I park it at work, it leaves two half-dollar sized oil drip stains on the concrete and for now, I've just been putting two small plastic cups under each side when I park it at night. When I go to adjust valves in the near future, I'll make sure to sand 'em down flat and/or get thicker gaskets.

    I did show it at the local Tucson Vintage Motorcycle show... it was in good company (second row, left):
    [​IMG]


    Thanks for the continued interest!
    #37
  18. victor850r

    victor850r n00b

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    7
    Hi i got the same bike it was heritage from grandpa, So im triying to bring from death the r65 1981
    but i notice the is no spark at the spark plugs and besides that the starter sounds like machine gun trrrrrrrrr trrrrrrrrr trrrrrrrr. I can see under the starter plastic cover that the flying wheel gear spins, but no spark in the spark plugs,
    do you think it can be because a bad fuse? or bad connection, or should i go straight to halls sensor?

    NOTE: when the spark plugs are out side the holes while they are attached to spark plug cables, they are loosen over the heads dancing around, no start button activated, there i can see some
    sparks in the spark plugs. I hope you guys could give to me some ideas or links to read about this kind of issue.

    thnx
    #38
  19. azcycle

    azcycle Chihuahua Wrangler

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    705
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    I'm not much of an expert so I think your best bet is to start a new thread with your problems. I'm sure some of the airhead experts here will be along to help you. You need three things to start: Air, Fuel, and Spark. Make sure you're getting all three before you go chasing potential issues. Good luck!
    #39
  20. mrbindc

    mrbindc Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    75
    Location:
    Alexandria, VA
    Since you're getting some spark, try this simple test to figure out the electrics. Make sure your spark plug is securely fastened to the cylinder with a bungee or something similar, you need a solid ground for the spark plug or you could damage the ignition module.

    Hall Sensor Test<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Kill switch on, well grounded spark plug visible, then switch the kill button off and on a few times. If it will spark with the kill button, but NOT with the starter button, that means there is no signal coming from the bean can, but the other components (coil, control unit & wire connections) are all capable of function.<o:p></o:p>
    #40