BST40 carb parts

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by motolab, Nov 24, 2009.

  1. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    I now have in stock:

    584.31.020.000 Needle Valve 2.8mm, $34.30 ea. ($41.11), '00 KTM 400SXC, '01 KTM 400 LC4-E, '03 KTM 625SXC (USA only) & '98-'07KTM 640LC4.

    Added it above as well, so the list is complete.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #61
  2. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Great service and knowledge on my DR650. Thank you Derek
    #62
  3. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Sir, you are welcome!

    Regards,

    Derek
    #63
  4. Benduro

    Benduro It's been handled.™

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    This is so awesome. Has anyone cross posted this to the DR650 thread?
    #64
  5. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    It has been mentioned.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #65
  6. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    I now have in stock:

    '96-'97 Cagiva Canyon 600, '97-'07 Cagiva Canyon 500 & '03-'04 Husqvarna SM610S emulsion tubes.

    I've added them above, so the list is complete.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #66
  7. 650ryder

    650ryder Adventurer

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    Anywhere the sun is shining! Just ride.
    Does anyone know if Derek is still around or still in business? I have been trying for 2 days to get in touch with him. I've tried both his emails, PM here and his phone. I really need a couple of parts he has listed for sale.
    #67
  8. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    I'm sure he is. Give him time. Maybe a personal reason that has him absent temporarily.


    Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk Pro
    #68
  9. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    I'm here! I was out of town for a couple of days...

    Regards,

    Derek
    #69
  10. RobDuck

    RobDuck n00b

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    Location:
    Santiago de Chile
    I'm looking to get a new spacer for the main jet, Derek or anyone know the part number or where I can get one? I can get the part numbers for the various jets but not the spacer in the photo below. It's above the jet, number 23 on the drawing...

    2472338944_8ff2fb32da.jpg

    My carb was in for repair as it was super heating the exhaust gases, some of the parts where seized. Not sure what happened but today my mechanic told me he is trying to source one of these now... I'm in Chile so his resources are limited and KTM here wasn't much help, hopefully someone can help?

    Cheers,
    Rob
    #70
  11. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    The Suzuki part number is 13331-07D00. I have a used one in stock at $2.19 ea.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #71
  12. RobDuck

    RobDuck n00b

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    Hi Derek, I've just asked my mechanic if can find the part here in Chile with the information you sent. Takes at least 4 weeks for goods to arrive and finding it here may get the bike going this weekend...

    I hope you understand but if I have any trouble getting one in Santiago you'll hear from me for sure!

    You're a top man Derek and I really appreciate your super fast reply! :clap

    Rob
    #72
  13. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Hello Rob,

    I was already expecting that you would try to find the part in Chile first.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #73
  14. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    I now have in stock:

    13250-12EH0 Float Valve, $63.85 ea.

    Will add it above as well, so the list is complete.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #74
  15. ChrisSRT

    ChrisSRT Been here awhile

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    El Paso, TX
    Derek,

    thanks for the great service, parts got to me before I went out of town and I got the bike running before leaving. Got a chance to ride this past weekend and it seems to run better than before. Thanks for the advice on the jetting changes.

    Chris
    #75
  16. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Good deal! You're certainly welcome...

    Regards,

    Derek
    #76
  17. drnorth

    drnorth n00b

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    British Columbia
    Hi Derek,
    I'm wondering if you have a part I can use or if you can point me in the right direction.
    I recently resurrected my 1996 DR650 after five years of storage. It was stored properly so it started up OK, but it had a heavy stumble/hesitation when hard on the throttle. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb using a Moose kit, and it is now running well.
    The problem is that I decided to re-orient the fuel line to make a straighter connection between my IMS fuel tank with stock petcock and the carb. I had read in various places on the Internet that the fuel inlet tube could be rotated if carefully gripped along its full length with a pair of vice grips. Of course, when I tried to do it the tube twisted and kinked instead of rotating. So now my fuel lines are straighter, but there's a kink in the inlet tube :doh:

    [​IMG]

    The bike seems to be running OK with no signs of fuel starvation, but I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the kinked inlet tube? There doesn't appear to be a part number for it, which leads me to believe Mikuni thinks it's non-replaceable. I have found a procedure to extract and replace a pressed-in plastic and brass fuel inlet that tends leak on some Harleys with Keihin carbs. Both Harley and the aftermarket have solid brass replacement parts available.
    I suppose another option is to extract the pressed-in part and tap the bore for a brass fitting--if there's enough metal there to do so without cracking the carb body. In my application a straight fitting with an 8mm or 5/16 hose barb would work best, like this:

    [​IMG]

    I know some Mikuni carbs have replaceable pressed-in fuel inlets (I think they're sometimes called fuel 'joints'), so it might be possible that one of those would work on the BST40. I know I'm not the first to mangle the inlet tube, I have found several other stories (now...) of failed attempts to rotate it, but no one that I can find has posted their solution for repairing or replacing it.
    So, do you carry/know of a suitable replacement part? Thanks in advance. :beer
    #77
  18. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    How many miles were there on the carburetor?
    You must mean Vise-Grips.
    I would not recommend that method. Instead, I recommend the use of a machine vise (without serrated jaws) to hold the hose barb. This would be done on one end of the jaws with the carburetor above and the thicker part of the barb sticking out the side. The carburetor is then rotated relative to the now stationary barb. If undue resistance is felt, a little heat can be applied with a propane torch right at the boss the barb is pressed into (although this should not really be necessary). If applying heat, please keep your safety in mind and consider the flammability of gasoline, as well as making sure to remove parts from the body that could be damaged by the heat.
    Yes.
    Correct.
    I don't consider the procedure to be directly applicable, although some variation of it might be.
    It looks to me like the body might just have enough room for that, but you would have to be careful not to over-tighten the fitting (I think that's when the risk of cracking would be greatest).
    The replaceable fuel inlets are not pressed in. They use o-rings and a retaining plate.
    Maybe I should consider creating a tutorial.
    I have a used inlet barb that I removed from a body that I could sell to you.

    BTW, I think it's best to keep this thread to parts related content and that the technical discussion about barb rotation, removal installation, etc. probably really belongs elsewhere.

    Regards,

    Derek
    #78
  19. LXnastynotch93

    LXnastynotch93 Adventurer

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    Derek thank you for the rebuild kit. Fast shipping and great service! My carb is no longer a leaky mess.
    #79
  20. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    You're welcome!

    Regards,

    Derek
    #80