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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by mfpthebronze, May 1, 2012.
Great stuff. More, please.
Keep it coming!!!
I think my wife went to college in Shenzhen. I think she's given up on moving back to China, and your story here makes me feel pretty alright about that
We are going to be spending a month in China this summer, if we are rolling through Shenzhen I might have to hit you up
Hmmm...what have we here? Looks like the Shenzhen boys are up to no good as usual, should be some quality entertainment coming from this project.
Keep going, I'll just be sitting over here
The Internet (thank you Al Gore) is working a little slow, so we'll see if we can get some pics up with this post.
We went back out to the bike shed today with the mission of getting the engine mounts fabricated (or bodged) and hopefully put into place. So of course that's exactly what didn't happen. We needed a rolling chassis, or at least the rear wheel on, to get everything lined up properly.
Before we put the wheels on we decided to have a quick look at the bearings.
Yes, the bearings, and everything else, have been painted center-line yellow. Some industrious little guy has sprayed everything with thick yellow paint. That might explain why the first two set of bearings wouldn't spin
We thought about just trying to clean things up a bit and putting it all back together, and then of of the guys chimed in and reminded us that we were being lazy bastards
Knocking out the bearings took a bit of work. We used an engine mount bolt (that we didn't need) to knock them out, but it was a bit of a struggle. Took the bolt to the table grinder a few times to try to get a "grabby" edge on it, but it still took a while. Lots of gentle and not-so-gentle taps finally got them all out though.
So, an e-bike trip to the bike shop later, and we had some new high-class bearings
Almost TZR, it's a sign. These are made for the bike!
We cleaned up all the yellow paint that was on everything, packed the new bearings with grease and gently laid them into place...
... with a heavy sledge... wielded by a gorilla.
Repeat for the rear wheel, and call it a job done!
Thanks! We had a look, and it doesn't seem to have this adjustment screw on it. I think all signs point to a pretty standard OLD 2 stroke.
Our aim with the oil system isn't speed (not a lot is going to help this motor), but ease. We want to eliminate use of it all together and run premix. As the bike is for the track only, we plan on using the factory oil reservoir as our premix tank, and leave the gas tank proper empty (it's also FULL of rust)
Yeah, just reading about it myself makes me wonder why I'm here
BUUUUUT, we're still here of our own choice. Despite all of the huge amounts of needless crap you have to wade through each day, there's still something indefinable that keeps a lot of us here...
If you're in Shenzhen, definitely send me a PM, and we'll get together
We're trying to clean things up a bit before we work on it, just for you
Well, we've been out working on the bike a bit, but don't have a whole lot to show for it. Every time we set a plan to get some real work done, we find another part that is completely knackered and requires attention first. Also work, other motorcycles, and days at the pool have kept us busy.
Thought I'd just do a quick post then regarding some painting.
After much deliberation and thought (read: 30 seconds) we decided to just paint all the bodywork white. White is universally known to be faster than other colors, and we need all the help we can get at the track.
I started with the front fender. I didn't have time to do it at the bike shed, so I brought it home and started sanding it... in the bedroom...
It was waaaay to hot outside to be sanding it anywhere else. Also please disregard the hairy knees, my wife got into the shot a little
After I finished sanding I brought it up to the roof to paint. I can't find primer at any of the shops, so I had to make due with a can of white paint. Turns out the white paint is 90% lacquer, 10% pigment. Even with 3 coats, you can still see through the paint to the ugly blue underneath... I'd care about it more, but I don't.
And 1 "over the railing" shot (note the lack of a railing) I also think I painted my arm more than the fender. I was windy!
Next up, the tank
I'll post about that later. Right now I'm going to go out and fix my wife's iphone which stopped working (again) and buy a non-copied fully legal and licensed computer game from the local electronics market which does not provide copied, cracked, and otherwise illegal software and hardware. I PROMISE
loving it! i love my china bike, motor 1 brand down here!
those oil injection systems were really never worth removing as they just plain worked so well. I think you should cut out the gas tank bottom and mount something inside it for your fuel. a small wind shiekd washer fluid bottle might do the trick or a radiator overflow bottle!
Iphone is now working, but couldn't find the game. You win some you lose some.
Last night I decided to start on the gas tank (petrol tank for those who spell "colour"). Just doing the same process as with the front fender. I have started sanding the tank with 300 grit paper to get the clear coat off. I thought about taking the tank down to metal with a wire wheel and a grinder, but was advised that it was a waste of time. At the time I agreed, but after an hour of sweating and scrubbing away at the tank I was starting to feel otherwise. But at this point, I've already started so I'll stick with it.
Also as with the front fender, I was sanding in the bedroom. My wife was even kind enough to take a picture of me making a mess
The yellow teddy bear pillow is not mine, I SWEAR
Thumbs up means it's done. Done means the first round of sanding. The plan is now to go at it again with 500 and then 1000 grit paper until it's nice and smooth.
Also, some of you may be wondering why the fill cap is off, possibly allowing debris into the tank. What looks like exit-wound gore, is actually the surface of the inside of the tank :eek1
I don't think that's going to buff out.
Last night I was considering something along those lines... if we decide to use the oil pump, then me may very well do that. The plan right now is to run premix out of the original oil reservoir, with also has he added benefit of being under the seat; keeping the weight and fluid a little lower.
I also have considered cutting large sections out of the tank until it is essentially a very thin framework. Then I would make a fiberglass replacement tank of sorts, and use the thin framework that is left over to support the fiberglass tank. The only purpose of the tank at this point is to give you something to hold onto with your knees. I'm considering doing this for two reasons.
1. To save weight
2. To try it for the sake of trying it.
I am realistic of the fact that this is a beat old 2 stroke that's going to be slow no matter what we do to it. So that's another reason that I'm happy to try things I otherwise never would. We have so little invested into this bike that it's not going to break any hearts if things go wrong with it.
Anyway, we can always order replacement parts from this guy I saw last night
for track handling you should aim for the bikes weight to be near the headstock, and the rider/bike combined balance should be about 60/40 front/rear.
mind melting amounts of info here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner
kiwi bucket racers would be right up your street. just don't tell em you used an ax100....
mind melting amounts of info here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner
kiwi bucket racers would be right up your street. just don't tell em you used an ax100....[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the inspiration Terraroot.. sometimes I wonder what the hell I'm doing at my age playing around with this heap, then i realise there is a world full of nutters doing the same.
More good info here too Joe. http://www.ozbucketracing.com/
Looks like fun
I've just started reading through this link and you're right, that's a mind melting amount of info. I think I've just booked my next weeks' worth of free time! Cheers for that link.
I had never really cared about small bikes (less than 600cc) when I was in the States. Came to China and suddenly 250cc was big. Now we're working on a 100cc "heap" as RichardKTM says, and I'm getting into it. It's a good way to focus on the finer points of adjustment and tuning, as big power and traction aren't really going to play a role here
This week I decided to refurbish the rear brakes after doing the front brakes last week. The front brakes were binding a bit after we put too much fluid in the master cylinder, when the lid was tightened down the pads were nipping the disc.:huh
The rear end was covered in the same rattle can black as the rest of the bike so first job was a quick clean up, time to dig in and do a strip down. We even have a Brembo master cylinder.
The old pads fell apart on disassembly, Im guessing the bike has been stood for a few years. One of the sliding pins had totally frozen and expanded inside the calliper, and I couldnt get them apart with levers or by spinning it.. in the end I took drastic measures and drilled out the end cap and used a punch to drive them apart.
This bike will never see rain and be stored inside so I cleaned up the pin and will find a grommet for the hole in the end.
After an hour with the wire wheel things were looking a bit better so its time for a well deserved beer.
Tsingtao (chin- dow) is one of the most common beers in China, at 4.2% its not too bad when its ice cold. Some beers here are as low as 2%!!
New high friction brake pads were acquired from the local bike shop, they arent EBC GP spec but they are bright blue??
Everything went back together as it should and the fluid was changed for the good stuff that you can see through.
Time for another beers I think.
I've spent ALL DAY looking through the links and reading the referenced material suggested, by TerraRoot, and am just having an aforementioned TsingTao.
I think I may be the only person here who hasn't read The Two-Stroke Tuner Handbook
If you haven't though, it's a great read on 2stroke motor fundamentals, and is turning out to be very applicable to our project.
So, I guess I should post something about the bike
I'd post about the painting process on the tank, but it's still sitting here in my bedroom in the same condition as last time. My wife is going back to her hometown this week, so I'll probably actually work on it then and post about it. For now I'll post yet ANOTHER bearing/maintenance post.
For those of you who are hanging in there with us on this build, we promise it will actually be a build soon, and not just us performing routine maintenance
As you saw on an earlier post, I had taken apart the steering head to find the mangled remains of the bearings. It was time to replace them so one of the guys bought 2 different sets of bearings and races.
(Apologies for the poor picture quality on this one. The sun was harsh and back-lighting every pic)
The races on the bike are in decent condition, and the new races were bought just because they came together with the bearings. But, we figured since we had them, it might be worth having a look at replacing the old ones. The fact that the new races were about 3mm in diameter too large didn't bother some in our group, and we had a go at it anyway
results = what you would expect.
So with the original races back in place, we packed in the news bearings with grease and reassembled the front end
Yeah, that gap between the upper race and the head stock is terrible. That's the way we got the bike, and it's OBVIOUSLY not the way it left the factory. Yet another thing we say we'll replace in the future. Truth be told, as the bike will never see inclement weather in our hands, it's probably not that much of an issue. The bearings cost about $1.3 for the full set, so we'll just replace them when the time comes I think
RichardKTM giving the ADV Salute.
There you have it, another exciting bearing change!
it's been a while but i think my yamaha rxs100 has head bearings like that, your missing a washer with a bell/skirt that covers the lot.
careful of that thread, it'll turn you into a power hungry two-stroke tuner with many many oddly shaped files
You are a bunch of nutters putting that much work into this bike, but as long as you are having fun it's all good!! And somehow I do feel compelled to read the thread even if it's just about bearing changes, maybe it's cause I'm glad I am not the one with the dirty hands for once!!
Hey guys. We've been working on the Yamaha a little, but bike trips have kept us busy prepping other bikes and riding.
We are currently in the process of
1. Repainting the tank
2. Prepping bodywork
3. Making engine mounts
The tank is still sitting on my bedroom floor, and I've only gotten away with that for this long because my wife has been gone. Buuuut, she's back today. So I guess I'll have to actually do something with it now. Which is a shame because I was kind of growing attached to it.... I was obviously getting lonely
The rear bodywork is also now sitting in my home. But it's in the living-room, so I'm not going to do anything with it until my wife gets upset about it.
We also made some progress on the front forks (not sure if progress really describes anything that we do).
I think I've mentioned before that the springs cannot be removed from the fork uppers. It is a sealed unit, only allowing the lowers to separate from the uppers, and for the fork oil to be changed.
Separating the forks reveals the inner piston, which is attached to the spring inside. Unfortunately, this configuration doesn't allow us to put in a spacer and stiffen the spring rate. These are obviously budget forks and they are made to accommodate the weight of a 15 year-old named Tetsuo. So they are definitely under-sprung for us.
We were finally able to source a set of fork seals from the neighboring city, so the forks could be re-assembled.
Out with the old fork oil
We decided to have a bit of a test and see how the forks felt with some thick oil in them. The only "proper" fork oil we could buy was so generic that it didn't even have the oil weight listed. So, out came the 40 weight motor oil, and we filled them up. When I say filled up, I mean, we pretty much topped them up.
I would have taken a picture of this process as it involved 2 bottles, a funnel, and a squeeze bottle - but I was fairly bathed in oil after about 2 seconds. Me all glossy and covered with oil, my hands slipping all over the upper fork tube. Wasn't pretty.
I will replace that mental image however, with a picture of our lunch
New fork seals in, forks reassembled, and everything put back together.
It's a rolling chassis again...
Hard to feel great about only really getting it right back to where we started, but the front forks feel fantastic now all things considered. Everything else is working properly (if you don't mind things working badly) and engine mounts are up next
One more pic to really utilize your bandwidth
You are throwing so much money at this project, has no one told you that two strokes are not allowed on the Moto Gp Grid these days! Looking forward to seeing the final results when it makes it to a track day.
I just came in off the roof, and thought I'd just add a quick update. I did the first round of painting on the tank with a different can of paint, and it's slightly better than the first can I used on the front fender.
This time I used "Paintrainbowchemical" brand "Paint Master Auto Spray Paint"
I also suffered from the first law of BBQ. Where ever you stand, will be where the smoke (or in my case paint) blows. I think I got better coverage than the tank.
I've painted things before in the States with a can of white paint (because I live classy like that ) and had no problem getting good coverage. Here though...
I used up the whole can and I think I'll have to apply another 2 cans before I get decent coverage.
Oh well... I'm off to the pool