Buell S3T?

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by EmptiMind, Feb 6, 2013.

  1. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    +1 The S3 and M2 Cyclone share frames. My S3 purchase was AFTER the S1 and S2. The first time I climbed onto the S3, I tried to naturally find the footpeg from muscle memory (everything else felt familiar). The footpeg position was so different that it was weird. At that instant, I 'got it'. This was going to be my next sport tourer (had to justify buying a third Buell).

    The only difference between the S3T and S3 is that it has taller bars (pretty sure they're from the Blast), saddelbags, fairing bags and fairing lowers. I have the fairing bags and saddlebags on mine, I don't care for lowers or the taller bars.
    There were two generations of Showa shock: the earlier 16.5" and the later 14". They had some failures on the 16.5" shocks and they came up with a safety containment loop thingy that clamped around the shock in case the shock eye failed. They were butt ugly. I would imagine that bike got it and somebody removed it.

    When they ran out of 16.5" shocks, they started installing the 14" shocks from the factory and any remaining bikes got it for the 'recall'. Plenty of aftermarket replacements are available in both lengths.

    The 16.5" Showa is rumored to be at risk for the eye breaking (hence, the steel safety loop added later). From posts on Badweb, nobody ever ACTUALLY had one fail but, the margin is questionable. I would probably start looking for an aftermarket or at least the 14" replacement Showa. Even if that shock were perfect, it will leak sooner or later.
    #41
  2. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    Hi Tom! So it's YOUR fault then. At least I now know who to blame!

    I have ridden Dons S3 and his has aftermarket shift linkage and it shifts better than mine- but it's still not great. The Baker shift kit reduces the effort required to shift and makes shifts a little more positive, but doesn't make things any "crisper". I don't miss 1-2 shifts anymore and the 3-4 change is much better. I may just have a poor example, but I really don't think this is a gearbox that will ever be comparable to what one finds in a typical Suzuki.
    #42
  3. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    Are you really saying it’s my fault or is it just that you’re gonna blame me? :lol3
    Poor example? Maybe so. From my very short time on a ‘98 S1 I don’t recall having any complaints about shifting. Not familiar with that Baker kit. My shifter & linkage are all stock items.
    Suzuki? :twitch I don’t want to touch another one.
    #43
  4. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    It just dawned on me that the radical differences in shifting descriptions are probably boomerang and post-boomerang shifters.

    Boomerang shifter--nice shifting, a bit of free-play but effective:
    [​IMG]

    Later, non-boomerang shifter--stiff, shifts like a truck but looks cleaner:
    [​IMG]

    People on Badweb said that if I changed the spline position on the shift-shaft and adjusted the tie rod to get everything to have 90 degree angles that it would clear up. That would make perfect sense because the geometry of this is all kinds of screwed up. No clue if it came from the factory that way or if the PO did it (like the shift peg repair he did? :lol3).

    If I'm not mistaken, the 1999 has the earlier boomerang shifter. If it does, I'd leave it alone.
    #44
  5. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    Was wondering the same thing. I gots the boomerang.
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  6. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Donkey Hotey, so if the S3 and M2 share the same frame, would I be correct in assuming they share the same foot peg location?
    #46
  7. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    I'm content to just assign blame, and thank you for your evil influence.

    I don't know the travails you have suffered at the handgrips of Suzuki products, but the ones I have owned had the sweetest gearboxes ever.
    #47
  8. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    Yup.
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  9. EmptiMind

    EmptiMind Stoopid Youngin'

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    So any aftermarket that's the right length should fit? Any suggestions, anyone?
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  10. Mr. Canoehead

    Mr. Canoehead Taste Gunnels!

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    Maybe you are not asking this question but....

    As a rule, just because a shock fits doesn't mean it will work. There are all sorts of issues like suspension geometry. wheelbase, linkage ratios, bike weight, etc that makes shock design very specific to a bike. You might find a 16.5" Showa shock off a motocross bike - it won't work on your Buell!
    #50
  11. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    :rofl
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  12. Mr. Canoehead

    Mr. Canoehead Taste Gunnels!

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    I guess it seems obvious but there was a long discussion a while ago about people putting EBay WP takeoff shocks from non-linkage KTM dirt bikes on DR650's - it fit but of course it didn't work very well. :huh
    #52
  13. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    It wouldn't work at all. Tube-frame Buell shocks get longer on the downstroke. The shock gets pulled, not pushed.

    Your point would be well taken on another brand but, it was just funny to read in this case.
    #53
  14. EmptiMind

    EmptiMind Stoopid Youngin'

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    Yeah, sorry for the generalized question. Took an ambien and apparently surfed the forums. I know Buell utilized pull shocks and understand the basic mechanics behind the shock.

    What my drugged mind meant to ask is that I can get a 16.5 inch aftermarket shock meant for a sports tourer that can handle the weight rather than having to "upgrade" the bracket to fit the smaller 14 inch?
    #54
  15. SilveradoTX

    SilveradoTX Adventurer

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    This has been quite informative. Do continue. :lurk
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  16. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    Because the Buell uses a pull shock aftermarket options are limited and expensive. The Penske is proported to be the best, but it'll set you back a grand or more.

    The stock Showa works reasonably well and when in good condition has a bit of adjustability, but they are prone to leakage and are not easily rebuilt. As the numbers of tubers out there has declined the number of suspension shops willing to fix the showas has also dwindled.

    Race Tech is still fixing them, and can improve them to a degree with their own shim stack "gold valve". A simple re-seal and recharge will restore stock performance for about $250. The addition of the gold valve will up the price but it does make the shock work better- this is the route I went and I have been very pleased with the results. I think it ended up costing me close to $500 once shipping to and from was factored in, still considerably less than the next best option.
    #56
  17. EmptiMind

    EmptiMind Stoopid Youngin'

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    She's mine. Been riding her the last two days and couldn't be happier. Only issue I've found is that one of the luggage has a small crack. Rear shock seems to be handling two up just fine. Do have to say with that stock seat I seem to be riding on the gas tank, I hear the Corbin isn't much better, any suggestions?
    #57
  18. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    #58
  19. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it?

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    If you rode a KTM you’d probably think this was better. :hide

    [​IMG]
    #59
  20. Tim McKittrick

    Tim McKittrick Long timer

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    I do ride a KTM, and you are not far off.

    [​IMG]

    I bought a Corbin for it after 3 days of ownership.
    #60