Building A XR650l Engine

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by mcma111, Aug 6, 2011.

  1. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Oops. That was the last thing I did before going to bed... it was late!

    Substitute "Steve" into above comments, and leave the meaning otherwise unchanged!
  2. elsalvadorklr

    elsalvadorklr southern xr rider

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    too late now man, the damage is DONE!


    jajajajajajajajja:rofl
  3. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Sorry for calling you Dave, Steve. No one likes that sort of thing. My apologies.
  4. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    No worries. For some reason most people I say my name to when on the phone reply DAVE? :lol3 :lol3 :lol3
  5. crobox

    crobox Been here awhile

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    Well there are certain phonetic and syllabic similarities...

    Anyway, like I said before... Great thread!!
  6. veryoldbiker

    veryoldbiker n00b

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    I am in the market for a 2001 XR650L and it was a great thing to view this thread.
    I can get the bike for 600 bucks but it needs a rebuild as the owner states there was an oiling failure.

    With this pictorial I can tear open the engine with confidence and I will hopefully find less damage than the owner suspects.

    One thing I cannot tell from the post is whether or not the connecting rod is OEM or not. I know the crank is pressed but the fiche for this bike shows the rod and crank as one part number.

    If it is aftermarket where did you get it? There seems to be a lot of hopping up on these engines but I want to go for a stock and hopefully cheaper rebuild.
  7. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    The rod was replaced with a Pro-X rod kit.

    Different engine but the same rod kit.

    [​IMG]
  8. veryoldbiker

    veryoldbiker n00b

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    I ask because I do not readily trust local resources and you have done this many times before.
    149.99 for the crank pin and rod is super cheap from my point of view.

    All in all it looks as if fixing this is like working on a really big wristwatch.:D
  9. The Dogger

    The Dogger Been here awhile

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    Hi Steve

    I'm in the process of removing the right side crankcase cover. I've followed the steps in the Clymer manual,Brake pedal , kickstart and bolts plus the 3 nuts at the bottom all off. The manual then states to simply remove the cover , taking care not to lose the locating dowels.

    Mine won't budge. I've applied a little heat and tapped lightly with a rubber mallet..........nothing.

    Can you shed any light please ? Can I give it mighty smacks ? I'm not clear on where exactly these dowels are.

    I'm replacing my camchain . Do I need a clutch holder tool , or do you have a trick way ?

    I've read this excellant thread a few times :deal, which has inspired me to delve into this myself rather than farm it out , but I am worried about causing damage due to any hamfisted bodgery on my part

    Many thanks for any tips

    Cheers

    Stu
  10. deejay_xr

    deejay_xr Been here awhile

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    You removed the oil line as well right?

    Tap the case on the sides along the split between case and engine block, pick the spots where the most meat is and whack away. If you use a rubber mallet you won't soon break anything, but be careful not to tap on the protrusions with the allen bolt holes, they're fragile.

    Tapping head-on on the kickstart axle helps as well

    Dowels are the nr 23 parts (sorry bout the big image guys)

    [​IMG]
  11. The Dogger

    The Dogger Been here awhile

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    Cheers deejay:clap

    That's got it off , thanks. Can you confirm that part no. 6 in your diagram is a washer or grommet that fits in the oil filter? ie when you replace the oil filter that washer is already in place ?

    Now to remove the clutch.......any pointers there greatly appreciated

    Cheers
  12. deejay_xr

    deejay_xr Been here awhile

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    Yep, that´s it, it´s already in place in every filter.

    For removing the clutch basket you can either order a tool from Ebay, mine´s from EBC, cost about 20 USD I believe.
    Or what some people do is wedge a penny or some other type of SOFT (you DON´T want to damage the teeth) coin in between the gears so they are stuck while you apply pressure to the bolts.
    It wouldn´t be my way of doing it, but apparently it works

    Edit: One of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/39052790992...ries&cmd=ViewItem&hash=item5aed470021&vxp=mtr
  13. Walterxr650l

    Walterxr650l Long timer

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    The clutch can be gunned off, the same way Steve shows to gun it on.

    Walter
  14. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Wow. Thanks Walter. :clap
  15. The Dogger

    The Dogger Been here awhile

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    Yeahbut......I saw those photo's , but there must be a stage before that ( in the removal procedure ) that prevents the whole shebang from turning while the 4 bolts are removed ...........

    That's what I was after......I had seen the penny trick on here before , and when I tried it I couldn't get it to jam up without falling out. Hence , asking for advice

    I don't have access to an airgun , is that likely to be a problem ?

    EBC clutch holder ordered and an it's way

    Thanks
  16. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    You remove the four bolts that hold the springs and outer clutch hub and the nut on the main shaft are right there. Gun the nut off and the whole clutch hub comes off. All you have to do is grasp the clutch assy to keep it from spinning as you gun it off. No gun? Then you will need a clutch hub holder as you wrench it off.
  17. The Dogger

    The Dogger Been here awhile

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    OK , got it , thanks
  18. deejay_xr

    deejay_xr Been here awhile

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    Yep, clutch tool would be the way to go, for us non-privileged people :fitz
  19. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    You can never have enough tools.
  20. deejay_xr

    deejay_xr Been here awhile

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    Correct !

    And I'm well on my way, the problem remains that nice tools tend to be expensive...