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Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by Geek, Aug 12, 2011.
From today's ride
Wow! That's frickin awesome!
No, it's not awesome.
Geek, you suck.
Nice! You need to start thinking about an epic trip (Denver to Tierra del fuego?) with your bride, bikes, Yeti and Sprinter.
Do it as a photo/video blog expedition with private sat-chats for hard core arm chair travelers, funded through kickstarter!
I volunteer to be your photographer. I've seen your photographs, Ed, you need a photographer along if the kickstarter backers are going to be pleased.
I'll be along as the pilot.
I'm fully aware that this expedition does not have any aircraft, so my duties will be primarily the drinking variety.
Get on it Ed.
With friends like you guys... do I get to come along on my adventure?
We'll think about it, but only if you are good.
I'm not going to take a picture of myself while pissing.
Plus, it's a well known fact that a drunk photographer is a good photographer.
Hunting around the internet for Econoline swivel seat bases, I found my way to this thread. A lot of planning and work went into this project, and it shows. The thing looks great!
It's a pretty long thread to shift through, but discovering the existence of a Rivet-Nut tool, and the 8020 railing system alone was worth sorting through it. Especially the Rivet-Nut tool. That is a perfect, and elegant solution to building out or customizing vehicles.
With respect to interior lighting, you were considering installing recessed LED lamps. It's too late for this now because those cabinets look great, but an alternative for future builders considering a similar path, would be to use a translucent privacy screen similar to what's in this picture:
The advantage of going this route is it would probably make the interior feel more spacious, but also those LED strings could be installed inside of the cabinets as the general house lights. I've got a string in my cargo van, and let me tell you, they are VERY bright.
Anyways, like I said, great job on this project. I, like many I'm sure, am curious to know the final tally for all the modifications.
Currently reading this thread from Tierrra del Fuego. I concur.
Man, do I wish that I had that kit down here!
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The time has come...
edit: not that time
Way back when I was looking to turn my aluminum wheels black, a bunch of folks mentioned plasti-dip.
For those wheels I went with powder coat.
I think it is going to be a snowy winter around here this year and my BFGs are pretty much done. So I'm going to throw the stock steelies back on the van with the original tires (which are supposed to be pretty good in the snow and have less than 7k on them).
The issue is.. in my mind, all wheels should be black - and the silver steelies are some of the ugliest wheels ever
Time to give plasti-dip a try.
Its also time to get started on the hinged cabinet doors (as opposed to the sliders I've already put in).
Holy crap I had no idea there were so many type of cabinet hinges :huh
faceframe... frameless...full overlay.. half overlay.. inset.. shock absorbing... etc. I just want hinges that screw into 15 series 80/20 with an M8 bolt on one side and wood on the other side. Open when I pull and close when I push. Is that too much to ask?
I'm interested to see how it holds up to <s>your brand of abuse</s> winter!
What's the beef with sliders? (curious before I build mine)
Some Neo magnets outa keep those hinged doors closed even with that stability software working away
the slider doors? no beef.. love 'em!
All of the overhead cabinets have sliding doors and they work great.
The lower cabinets (under the counter tops) do not have the width for a slider door... (one cabinet is 10" wide for example) so a hinged door will work better in that situation.
For example the cabinet space to the right of the fridge door in this photo (which in the photo has a couple of solid boards - but will be a fully functional two shelf cabinet) needs a hinged door:
What type of door do you want to have on the cabinet? one that sits inside the channel (like the boards you pointed out next to the refrigerator) or over the front of it (like most kitchen cabinets have)?
If you really want to get slick and techie, make that spot a partial cabinet and make a motorized slider drawer on the bottom complete with dog bowls for your puppy.
THe bottom of that cabinet area has two 10 inch subwoofers in it - so only the top 2/3 will be cupboard space.
Ideally I'd like recessed doors kinda like how the wood is. The goal is to keep the entire isle "snag free".
Ok, so I am thinking a "Push pop" cabinet setup is what you are looking for along with the recessed doors and concealed hinges, I will see what I can come up with.
What does the inside look like for a hinge to attach to? Is there wood there to bore a ressess in to?
Push pop is exactly what I'm aiming to do.
The issue is there is not wood to mount the "cabinet" side to.. (i.e. I can't bore one of those big holes) - because it'll be mounting into a t-slot on the 15-series 8020. (i.e. 1.5" square)
i.e. the cabinet corners are made of this stuff:
So basically my mounting option is the slot facing the cabinet opening (as the slot behind it contains the cabinet wall).
In some of the cabinets I might have the option to mount to the wooden wall - but then the hinge would have to have the ability to step out and around the aluminum 1.5" corner piece.