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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
If it aint broke........... RIDE IT LIKE YA STOLE IT
My muffler is on the way out on my 88. Any have a good stock muffler from a 88,89 or 90 they would part with? These are unique in that they take the stainless steel dual headers.
Let me know! Thanks
Just get a new header and then you can have MANY different options......LIKE THIS nice unit by DG
It just took a bit of cutting, welding and $20 at a local muffler shop I was on the road.
Could you tell seat-of-the-pants hp increase with header and pipe?
---well, an incres that was worth the cost?
No idea......It had the header and a Supertrapp on it when I got it. Don't know what stock felt like, sorry. But I know it pulls my 200lbs around just fine
I do love that rule... You don't know how many times i've caused a problem dealing with modifying my cars. However, i have to have the air screw about three turns out to run well which i read means its too lean. The pipe is pretty loud, but not obnoxious. You can poke the spark arrestor with a pencil but for the most part its straight through.
New to me XR600 -- much more pep than my XR250 but no plate
Appears to be well-ridden but the price was right (free). Appears to run strong but need to get it out to really know. It could replace a rototiller for yard work, though, looking at the aftermath of warming it up on my lawn.
Clean up frame. One of the supports under the seat (furthest to the rear) is broken at one end. Weld.
Work on fork brace fitment. I added an RSW brace but forks appear to be binding. Will definitely visit this before riding; will remove brace if I don't have the time.
Open up top end & see if anything was done. I don't have any history on the bike. I don't want to be adjusting things incorrectly if it isn't set up stock.
Check fitment of scotts stabilizer. There was one previously on the bike and the top clamp says scotts. I have a damper, just need to try throwing it on. Tower is welded to frame which may interfere with an aftermarket tank... may need to look at changing that eventually. Thoughts?
Pumper carb -- when I've got the money & the price is right. It has pep but is a bit more hesitant than I'd like. What was the issue fitting the FCR41MX on these bikes -- gas tank? I want a choke on any replacement carb and the sudco 41 doesn't have one. Lots of threads to read through.
Larger tank. I'd like ~4gal, I believe the big acerbis would be overkill... is there a consensus as to whether IMS or Clarke has a better fit? Would either one interfere less than stock than an FCR carb?
I have always forced the exhaust through the tiny outlets of the stock muffler throughout the 20 years of ownership.
I see that there is differences in diameter of the hole out an oem muffler depending on the year of bike.
Bought the 96 and it aleady had a white brothers pipe. A non fenderfouling one I might add...
No baffle plates in the end cap...
Bottom line I like it.
ims tank for sure. i had to return a clarke because of bad fit
Hey Wired One-
How's she geared? Ride that thing down here! I'm in Corona, ca.
I just threw in a 68 pilot and 158 main today. I also TRIED to throw on the xrsonly choke plate but its kicking my ass. Can someone post a picture of how the choke lever and the choke piece is together? From what I gather, the choke has an arrow that points vertical. You lift it up, as you do this, the choke plate inside goes from WOT and closes it off thus choking it, right? Also I can't seem to understand how the linkage works though.
Also, the idiot I am removed the choke rod out of the carb. I know it only goes in one way, but I don't know which way to spin it for the spring to work properly. PIC would be appreciated!!
Oh, and on the XRs Only plate, the Logo goes INSIDE, right? The directions said black dot facing out. I didn't see a black dot...????
What brand and viscosity Oil do you guys use in the 6?
Shell Rotella 15/40. I used to use 20/50 but I found that it was to thick on cold start up. The oil pump by-pass valve would be going crazy until the oil warmed up a bit.
i accidently removed my choke plate shaft once. had to stick a little pick in there to bend the spring over enough for it to catch the shafts half circle end. took a while of playing with it.
Oh my god you rock. I used a needle. +1 to your idea. I was getting so frustrated. Thanks buddy!
Rotella T 15/40. Says it's for diesels on the bottle.
$12-$14 a gallon on sale. Safe insurance every few rides.
My buddy had his xr250 apart for a gear replacement and the rest of the motor was super clean after 8 years of single track and Rotella.
Hmm. Maybe ill try that if I can find it over here. I've been using valvoline durablend and thinking of switching over to motul 5100 15w50
ah, and a question.
I've placed the camshaft and fiddling around with the camchain I got to the point where one must align the camtiming. (hotcam) the camchainsprocket has 2 cuts which need to be aligned to the cilinderhead surface, while the flywheel has been set to the 'T' mark.
Am I correct if, with given above situation, the piston will be at TDC and the camlobes are pointed DOWN? The manual doesnt say anything about this and the pictures are a bit blurry..
Hi all, Im well into the rebuild of my 1987 XL600RMG, and have a question. Bear in mind that this bike has the engine out of an XR600, not the XL600, despite the model name. The camshaft center bearing journal is stuffed. Both bearing surfaces in the head and valve cover are chewed out as well as damage to the camshaft bearing surface.
Now, I've found a used head and valve cover with undamaged bearing surfaces but am having less luck finding an undamaged camshaft from this bike, or a 1985-87 XR600 cam will fit.
Now my question??? I've read and been told by a couple of people that the center bearing on the camshaft isn't really necessary, and the camshaft will run just fine supported by the ball bearings at each end only. I was also told to grind a couple of mm of the damaged bearing surface away so the camshaft makes no contact with the center bearing surface and all will be fine.
So, has anybody done this?? Did it work?
Very interested to hear other XL/XR600 owners experiences or fixes for this problem.
royal club. yeah as long as your t mark lines up on the flywheel with the hole. you putthe cam gear on with the two marks level with the head. you want the lobes facing down. so that you can put the rockers on. it would work with the lobes up. its just hard to get the rockers on. alls it does is change if you are on compression stroke or not.
Not sure about the milling clearance around the center cam journal bit but I do have two XL/XR cams on the shelf.