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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
Christian, are you still using the ZDDP in your oil?
He guys, me and a friend have set up a facebook page called endurofools, with the intention of creating original content from offroad/singletrack/enduro video's asap, but for the time being we need some picture material to gain audience.. Would anyone of you like to have their picture on our wall?? If preferred with photographer name and rider name added under the picture!
The page is by the same people who created this content
however they are semi new! they have 500miles on them...so it already was broken in if you will, how much I will find out soon I guess
THAT WOULD BE A BIG NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
I have opted for no zddp...
I have done 4 oil changes since my last clutch slip scenario
I ws told since its a semi new oem clutch kit that it might take a few rides for the plates to get to know eachother
I also used 4 ebc springs instead of 2 oem and 2 hd....
they are noticeably stiffer but not as bad as I thought....my oem springs measured just over 44mm well within spec, and they were exactly the same length as the new oem xrl springs AND ebc springs...
however my old fiber plates were signifucantly thinner and glazed looking when comparing to the new xrl plates...
im no enduro rider but I thinkI got one taken during a race...nothing too exciting, jajajaja
I hear you...I don't think that stuff was ever meant for a wet clutch engine. Expensive lesson learned.
i guess it depends on who you ask...it did not work for ME on my old clutch thats for sure...I think I also abused it a little as I was using it to prevent overheating and thinning out of the oil...
it worked great but over rthe 2 or 3 months i consistently used it probably did too much to the fiber discs...
I guess? dunno
Ill get some rides in hopefully and see what happens, thats all I can do
so Im going out for MY FIRST RIDE with a pregnant wife on the mind! jajajaja
I have done a lot to the bike and am very thankful for those who again have helped me out
tm38 flatslide is back on with an XRL boot(thanks steve. old time gift) it pushed the carb angle a bit down so now I dont have any fitment issues with the cable adjuster
put in a leaner pilot jet 17.5 versus 20, I had kickback, so far so good
replaces complete clutch pack and installed ebc hd springs...with an xrl clutch. we will so how this goes after some easy rides
also changed oil twice and inspected my oil filter(by taking it apart) details about that later...in any case my engine is happy
wish me luck
Thank God for that!
Now, part numbers?????
I want to do my XR clutch too.
Last time out it was slipping, ether the synthetic oil or the clutch has to change, I thinking maybe both.
Only want to do it once though.
Anyone have any experience with the Edelbrock carb on the xr600?
Never mind. I used the search option lol.....
omfg cold starting bitch .. yes i know its 34* out but really that many kicks and that long .....uuuggghhhhhhh wtf .. perhaps it needs a re-jet
Yes, had Eddys on 2 stock 600s and an HRC 628, big performance improvement across the board. Unfortunately, Edelbrock no longer markets these carbs and does not provide parts and support. If you can find a new or good used one (Edelbrock # 3113) for a reasonable price, they do last quite a long time with proper maintenance.
Yeah, it is cold. Be sure to keep the throttle closed, choke on and have at least enough fresh gas it the tank fill the bowl. If everything is in order, it should start. Any mods or other problems before this?
yeah it rocks,
clutch kit get an oem xr/xrl clutch pack
springs are ebc csk116 springs...
Also I can now vouch for the cheap WINDEROSA clutch cover gaskets...they fit better than the k and s gaskets, however they have no glue...but I fitted dry with a dab on the grommet as usual and tight as can be
these gaskets are about half the price of other aftermarket gaskets but nice quality I also traced the gasket on some cardboard so Im good to go there in case anything happens.
ps It appears my slipping was a combination of oil contamination(stp) AND slightly worn/glazed fibers...my steel plates were OK yet they had some discoloration and grooving...they were not warped however
lastly my stock springs were perfect at 44mm, they did however feel softer at initial travel, the ebc are hard and stay hard throughout(thing fork springs straight rate versus progressive)
my old ones felt soft the hard...aka progressive
good luck mike!
I was looking for the eddys way back when I got my xr, I just could never find one...they were great I heard, I remember asking you about them a long time ago...
in any case I can now positively say that on the cheap you can get the MIKUNI TM38 flatslide carb that after jetting for my altitude is now working great.
I got mine for free, imagine that? and I can say that its definitely a better performer than the stocker...maybe not as good as some other carbs out there...but $$$$$$$$$$$$ value is sky high with this carb.
In fact it was used on some model atk, with the xr engine so that means something, not to mention the old australian safari guys, and ballards, etc...
you can get them used for as little as $50, however xrsonly sells them for about $250, jetted...
If anyone is interested in aftermarket carb jetting with the tm38 there are a couple of good threads over on TT.
P.S. I finally have no kickback!
Hey dudes, for all those that helped with my kickback scenario a few months back...after getting my clutch installed and all here is what I concluded.
1. It appears I was both lean and rich on the idle circuit, how I had some small cracks on the xr intake boot, what was weird is the many air leak tests did not alter the idle, however when riding the idle would creep...I also had too fat a pilot jet on the mikuni, a 20, instead of the 17.5 now...so that made hot starting worse too...I would kickback every 3 or 4 solid kicks....If my jetting would of been leaner I might of not had enough time to get a kicker...jajaja
2. The xrl boot I have now installed was newer than both xr boots I had, one had a brocken lower bolt mount and the second developed these weird cracks.
3. If you decide to use an aftermarket carb that has fitment issues I found out through reading many threads that the xrl boot has a slight DOWNWARD angle to it that points a bit down and to the right when facing the bike from on top...thise helps with the different cable adjusters or pulleys on some carbs...it is also slightly shorter, pulling the carb towards the head...
THINK FCR41, TM38, etc...they have big bodies and addons that make fitment somwehat of an issue
for my altitude changes of about 3500feet from up in the city to the sea I had to compromise...
so for my tm38(xrsonly) flatslide my jetting is:
pilot 17.5 2 turns out(in is rich out is lean on these carbs)
6fj41(leanest needle) in second from leanest clip(I need to be lean since I have cw hrc cam which requires less fuel at this position)
220 main jet
I beleive my throttle slide is the #2
Hope this helps anyone in a similar situation, although I dont hear of many guys switching to these old school carbs anymore
To notes is these carbs are what all the ballards guys and mostly asutralian racers used in the 80s and 90s, they were the defacto carb for big bore racers...
I was having some trouble starting my bike when its cold too. I put a heat gun (glorified hair dryer) on the carb boot/ head for five minutes and it started first kick.
Mike, you have to use an oil that has NO friction modifiers in it. I used to use Shell Super SF back in the day when the bikes were new......