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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CSMonte, Dec 8, 2008.
exact same one I switch back and forth with...
good spare...no issues
why do you switch back and forth ?
He's been trying to exorcize the demons out of his engine. He finally found a bad/cracked wire at the coil. All better now.
If I ever have troubles(which I do) I can easily diagnose electrical issues by eliminating possible causes...
this because I live in a country where spares are hard to come by so over time steve and others have sent me a crapload of extra stuff
I have 2 stators
2 coils, 2 plug caps
oem pg and new one installed
anytime I start getting electrical issues from vibrations or whatever and they seem out of the blue the first thing I switch is the cdi...if that shows no change I usually change the coil and cap or resistor in the cap
if none of this helps what I usually end up doing is testing the stator for volts then I undo the wiring harness
this last time I actually had one of the coil wires under the honda gromment cracked you couldnt see it...
I made new connections and Im good to go...
so thats part of the reason I have all these electrical components to switch back and forth with
I dont with the pg or stator...jejeje
Have you looked at your head closely for interferance with piston / valves.
Dropped valve guide or something.
I had mine start a ticking noise.
When it was torn down it was obvious it was the valve seat.
However the guide had moved also.
Go back and look at your old piston for top surface damage very closely.
Mine was showing signs of lower compression when I was starting it. This was about 10,000 after a major rebulid.
We kero tested the head at the rebuild and it was fine,
We had the valves reseated at the time, came back border line for thickness but we used it.
Now have repalced with new head, valves and some rockers, cam was whole new cam at rebuild time so did not need work.
Did you also check the oil holes in the crank before you reassembled.
Did you pump oil in the crank shaft end oil hole and see oil coming out of the connecting rod big end.
You could have a blocked crank oil hole.
Did you check the oil screen in the bottom of the frame oil tube to make sure it was not blocked with the teflon / nylon from the cam chain guides as they wear.
Biggest cause of engine oil starvation in XR's after not feeding them enough oil.
Hope you get it sorted.
what did you do to the head during your rebuild? if nothing this could be a source of issues
same goes for crank...you really have to clean everything ESPECIALLY when you had a failure before...
remeber the seal I asked about, if that is leaking then your crank suffers oil starvation and could be causing it to run drier and make noise...dunno really but its a VERY important seal.
Im still plucking bronze flakes from the catastrophic failure the previous onwer had when he exploded a crank assembly and the sold the bike in boxes to me without a crank...this after almost 4 years having the bike...
even after 2 unrelated rebuilds and a million flushes of the frame there are still bits that end up in the frame strainer...
so if something similiar happened with your bike you really need to make sure you check EVERYTHING
also you were sold the bike as a 630 kit...what if it was a 630 at one point had some major damage happen and then they went back to stock cylinder and stuff...
just trying to help a fellow 88er...
reading this is kinda a relieve for me...
Got something going on?
Some slight damage to the rear wheel bearing spacer, anything to be concerned about?
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Thanks for the suggestions mate.
The head was fine, no loose valves etc and the top of the piston was ok. The knock was definitely down lower, ie crank transmission etc. I will check the crank oils holes though, that is something I didn't think of, thanks!
I have actually found the problem!!
Found it yesterday, in between finishing my stat analysis and beginning my results section.
(Currently my life is just separated into moments around this paper: thesis, breakfast, thesis, take a crap, thesis, coffee, thesis, lunch, thesis, work, thesis, dinner, thesis, sleep.)
So who wants to step right up and guess the problem? Come on now, don't be shy.
Here's a hint, remember all those metal fragments that I found when I first tore it down, and couldn'tt figure out where they came from? Thought it was from an old piston? Well I've found where they're coming from...
Give it a shot
Big end bearing?
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I Have one (among the 8 million products I stock) available that looks exactly like that, made by Rick brand.
Remember there was no vertical play in the rod at all.
It's an after market rod, ProX, and has been put in fairly recently as there is only slight wear in the small end....
... dammit Geoff, why are you so clever
No vertical play that I could tell, or my Dad, friends or machinist could tell either.
A mate of mine who is a mining engineer flew back in the other day (2 weeks on - 1 week off) and offered to go get the rod look at etc since I am busy and he had nothing better to do. Lo and behold, the big end was trashed.
Notice the lack of a bearing cage? Fuck knows where that went, ground into those metal flakes I guess. Missing needles and others broken in half. Whole thing is well fucked.
Anyway, this is a good thing. Means I know the problem, know where the metal came from that started the first blow up, know why it was knocking both before and after the rebuild (so i didn't fuck that up which is good). Will replace it with a HotRods rod when I get the money/time, and so almost everything should be new , top and bottom ends.
My mate also picked up a replacement main bearing from a bearing supply shop because it is cheap ($20) and I'm going to order the strangely sized one (6307/18) in the next week or so. While this expensive one still turns fine and seems perfect, I don't want some flakes of metal to float out of it's cage after I've finished the rebuild, ala Christian and his bronze flakes still sticking around in his crank.
Cheers for the help everyone, happy days!
glad you finally found it John,now get to work on that thesis :)
every time I change oil or something I get these couple of flakes, nog a lot.. just enough to cover a nail or something.. But I don't have any issues with the bike.. Now I do know the previous owner had a seized up piston/cylinder/cam and I have flushed the frame and engine, but not thoroughly.. this would explain why I keep seeing the flakes..
Wow, Gremlin identified
I'm happy for you man !
Atleast now you KNOW what you're trying to solve
Oil cooler at last!
...does anyone know how much header wrap do I need to wrap my headers
glad you found out what it was..makes sense the prox being the issue...you didnt know how it was rebuilt, the crank that is...make sure they balance it after...
just to clear up a bit...
my frame reservoir has the odd flake or so that ends up in the strainer....thats what the strainer is for..
I DO NOT HAVE ANY flakes at all inside the engine or crank! that would be disastrous as you well know!
now report back
dont wrap steel headers.. Water will soak in and they'll rot...If you insist get stainless headers first..