Campbell-Hausfeld Switch Issue

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by kantuckid, Mar 4, 2013.

  1. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    Anyone else had a problem with the 60 gal upright air compressor switches? I got 2 on warranty but they are still crap switches. They leak air internally thus forcing the machine to come on unnecessarily & cost elec!!! I see it as a simple fix to put a generic control switch in place but those seem to lack the small tube connection that runs over to the brass fitting at the tank top location. I think it's called the "unloader valve"?
    Google tells me I need a new check valve at the top of the tank. Do those get dirty & stick or simply wear out?
    #1
  2. Bart

    Bart Constant Lurker

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    First find out if it is the switch leaking, the unloader valve or a line coming from the tank. Use a little dish soap in water squirted on any suspected causes to confirm the leak. It might just be a loose line. You can buy generic replacement switches from Princess Auto (in Canada) or Harbour Freight (US). You can also buy replacement unloader valves. The best part is, the last switch I bouht was $24 includning unloader.
    #2
  3. muddywater

    muddywater Been here awhile

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    confirm check valve...not uncommon on those compressors. It will be in or under the fitting where the compressed air enters the tank.
    same symptoms as you describe
    #3
  4. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    I took out the check valve and cleaned it. I see no reason to buy a check valve as it has no parts that are actually wearably bad but might have been sticking. There is a plastic disc,spring and steel disc & snap ring & all dirty but good shape. Cleaned it & is definitely going back in. I found a nearby source for the heat resistant 1/2" ferrule(this was bad but not a leak source as I doped it up last time apart to avoid buying it then) that goes on the copper tube above the check valve, so I can avoid shipping on a $1.71 part & will be by there tues anyway. My pop off safety valve has never leaked.The plastic tube from check valve to switch has never leaked. Always cycles properly and stops at high pressure/ on at low. Now has the 3rd pressure switch in it since 1998. 05 & 08. When you listen to it under pressure the hissing sound always seems to come from inside the pressure switch. It would seem to be the check valve based on the trouble shooting guide as leaking off pressure back to the switch. Does that equate to a dirty check valve & the noise heard at the pressure switch? FWIW, I'm a pro wrench but my home shop air source. Isee the switches on ebay for ~ what you stated here.
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  5. muddywater

    muddywater Been here awhile

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    The bleed off will keep bleeding air if the check valve is leaking compressed air from the tank through the check valve. May not be the check valve, sounds like you have it covered. I have cleaned them with success and have had ice build up and hang them open in cold weather.
    #5
  6. kantuckid

    kantuckid Long timer

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    I have learned from carrying the check valve in my pocket while disassembled that the plastic disc inside that is what seals off gets brittle over time(mine was ala 1998) and the edges where it seals chips off-hello new check valve. Moral of the story is if you clean it handle with care! Cheaper on ebay is the other side of the deal.
    I do wonder why they didn't design the check valve line to have a compression fitting on both ends-not just at the jug? Obviously the silicone rubber (sort of but not really over time- heat resistant)ferrule is something that goes bad over time while my machine has the same brass fittings on the jug end? Vibration & heat on both ends?
    #6