Canada to Argentina 2010

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by MotoLara, Sep 13, 2010.

  1. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    It's a pelican 1300 with the Quick Lock SW-Motech system. It's for my Canon T2i Plus telephoto lens, iphone and wallet storage. Works like a charm :lol3

    here a pic.... will try to find a better one tho:

    [​IMG]
    #61
  2. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    It was nice waking up to the chill of the air conditioning at the good old Best Western. The best thing about american hotels is full american breakfast in the lobby. Surprisingly it didn't take a whole lot of time or effort to pack up all our stuff, considering that it looked like our stuff had exploded in the room. We bought 2 cooling vests they sold at Iron Horse and today we were going to try them out for the first time. How they work: you soak them in water and as the water evaporates from the vest it keeps you cool. I love science. After saying goodbye to my parents and purchasing some Mexican Auto insurance we were on the road.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]</td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye to Nina and Graham. From here and on is just Naomi and Me
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]We drove the interstate straight south to Nogales. Nothing too exciting was happening there. At the border there were these interesting speed bumps. They were metal domes arranged in a linear pattern. Not a problem when there is only one line of them, but a little tricky when there are several rows in an equilateral pattern. Also I got the red light at the border check station and the second one 21km from the border as well. So we got sniffed by the dog, and we had to empty our cases. Thankfully she only searched the easy access cases not the rok strapped bags. The weird thing was not having to go into Immigration at the border. We were free to roam Nogales. We didn't. Our main objective was to head due south.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]We drove HWY 15 until the customs checkpoint 21km from the border. There we got our passports stamped and the appropriate paper work filled out for bringing our bikes into the country. Sounds smooth... well I guess it was smooth but it was also lengthy and very hot. It was probably an hour until we were done with everything and finally had a piece of pizza in the shade. A thunderstorm was also bearing down on us at this point, so we quickly got back on the road heading south.

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    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    Our first Pemex. They don't take credit cards. Boohh to Mexico!

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    Friendly Mexicanos on horses went by saying 'hola'

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    Taking a brief break to look at the map

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    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The unfriendly weather ahead
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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]It was nasty weather. You could see the lightning, quite impressive actually, as we were driving towards it. Luckily we only got rained on for a few seconds and before things got really ugly we exited to HWY 2 and headed west to the coast. There was no rain, but boy was it windy. The weather was still chasing us so we decided to stop at a nice, new looking hotel. It was a little out of the budget but it was getting late, the weather was getting worse and we felt like there will be plenty of time to stay in cheap places and start camping once we get deeper into Mexico and get a feel for things. We took the advice of Susan and Grant from horizons unlimited: some of the best hotels are the ones that you can get by the hour.

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    First hotel in Mexico

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    </td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping for the night: an 'auto-hotel' as they call them here.
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    #62
  3. Lost Rider

    Lost Rider Roadie

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,328
    Location:
    Ventura County, California Republic

    Great idea with the tankbox, works well doesn't it? :evil
    For more info on a similar tankbox and it's mounting system look here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402092&highlight=hprc


    Nice looking 8GS's, and great story so far... you are all much more kind than I could have possibly been to the lady at the beginning...
    Good luck in SA, I look forward to following your travels. :clap
    #63
  4. gwedo

    gwedo Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    brandon manitoba canada
    great trip so far im realy enjoying your report and will fallow with you goodluck and enjoy:clap
    #64
  5. AZ_ADV_RIDER

    AZ_ADV_RIDER Demons In My Helmet

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    818
    Location:
    Land of Sun, Sand and Thorns
    Sweet - especially like the yellow GS - I'll also be following your RR. Have a fun, great and safe trip! :D
    #65
  6. Iron Tiger

    Iron Tiger Born To Be Wild

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    39
    Colorful & High Class RR...! [​IMG]
    Thank You Very Much For Sharing...
    #66
  7. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]Today was a very difficult day, I guess that's why they call it an adventure not a vacation. We awoke in Altar in our nice little hotel. We got some breakfast at a corner store just up the street. The crickets had invaded the enclosed parking where our bikes slept for the night so it was a bit awkward packing the bikes. By the time we hit the road it was quite warm. The plan for the day was to go to Puerto Libertad and then follow the coastal route south. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]The highway to Caborca was straight forward. We stopped for gas there and also to get directions for the road to Puerto Libertad. We found the road, or so we thought. Everything started out well but soon the road turned to gravel, and then sand. We came through a very small town where the sand was very deep. Alberto had a massive bail in the deep sand (he was leading). We were very lucky that he was okay, but the new locks dad gave us for our cases go damaged. Well those lasted about 1.5 days. All I saw was Alberto's bike bucking wildly and then he went flying and I saw a puff of sand/dust. When the sand cleared I could see his bike down and his case lying beside it. While he was fixing his case I noticed that the local traffic were avoiding the sand by taking the higher ground. We did the same once we got going.[/FONT]

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: rgb(207, 226, 243); margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>[FONT=Verdana,sans-serif] Here's where the dirt road turned into sand
    you can see how I lost control by looking at the tyre track in the sand

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    Repairs needed after the 60 km/h crash

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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]The road was mostly hard packed but there were pockets of deeper sand and I had to pull of some surprising saves. It's weird riding such a heavy/big bike in sand. It goes all over the place and then somehow it straightens up. It's a very weird feeling. It would be much more fun to play in sand with the F8GS naked. Then we came into much deeper sand. First it was in pockets, and then it was just constant. By that time we had both dropped our bikes, and feeling a bit defeated, not to mention dehydrated, we had lunch in the shade. My case now had also broken off and my new lock became old news. [/FONT]
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    The little shade we could find was a blessing

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    The 'road' before turned into a sandy mess
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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]It was a much needed break for lunch and more importantly water. We were facing some very deep sand. After regaining some of our strength we continued further but there was much more dropping of bikes. Luckily we saw our first car of the day and we asked them for directions. It turned out that we were on the wrong road and that the sand was going to get much worse. Okay that made the choice easy, we were heading back to Caborca. The only problem is that by this time we were exhausted, and now we had to go back through 1-2km of deep sand. By this point we had emptied the water from my rotopax into the camelbaks. The water was burning hot from the sun.

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    Battling the sand @ 36C is quite challenging

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    The sand we were driving in

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    This is where Alberto took a 30min nap because he couldn't pick up the bikes anymore

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    And this wasn't the worse of it!

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    Powering through the sand

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    Brummm brummm :lol3

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    Damn! :huh

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    La Gringa needs no side-stand to stay up right :evil

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    Hard to keep a straight line

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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]We made it through the really deep stuff but not without dropping our bikes repeatedly (me more than others). We were past our breaking point, we were broken. Then a miracle happened. A family in 4X4s was coming back from a ranch they had visited for the weekend. First we met Marcelino and Emanuel in their Suzuki Samurai. They gave us cold water, which we were very appreciative of. Some of their other family members arrived and stopped to talk to us as well. They gave us some cold Gatorade and it was delicious. They offered to follow us in case we needed help picking up the bikes but also because it was getting late and they said it wasn't safe for us to be by ourselves. So off we went back to Caborca in the convoy. Thankfully neither of us dropped our bikes again. Marcelino and Emanuel escorted us to a very nice hotel in town. They were excellent and very helpful. We cannot say thank you enough to those guys and their family. Thank you Gilas guys.[/FONT]

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]<table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our new friends that helped us get back to Caborca

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    At the end of a hot day: a nice A/C'ed room

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    The Oasis hotel in Caborca is highly recommended

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    Funny how 3 hrs before we were about to die of heat-exhaustion in the desert
    and now we were having an awesome room-service meal and enjoying a much needed A/C :lol3
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>[/FONT]

    The hotel is fantastic. Very modern, clean and new. We showered up and boy did it feel good. Today I found out what it feels like to have your eyes sting from sweat. Not a pretty picture. After we started to feel human again I ordered room service, which actually turned out pretty well considering my broken spanish. If you find yourself in Caborca, Sonora, Mexico and are looking for a bit of luxury go to the Oasis Hotel. It's right off the highway. It is out of the budget of most travelers but it would be worth 5 times as much in Canada so considering our weakened state we figured it's a bargain.
    #67
  8. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    Thanks ChiTown! Yeah the tankbox is really convenient and stays on its place after a fall (or many!)

    I guess we were too 'Canadian' towards that carzy lady on Day 01 ...:rofl



    BTW Naomi and I enjoy your photographs, thanks for sharing!
    Alberto.

    #68
  9. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    Gwedo, Mark, Iron tiger and everyone else following us: Thank You :D

    We're having a relaxing day today... after suffering from heat-stroke / exhaustion yesterday on the (wrong) sand road @ 37 C (~99F)

    It's all part of the adventure :lol3

    Alberto.
    #69
  10. Money$hift

    Money$hift Poonraker

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    78
    Location:
    Blacklick, Ohio
    man, looks like a blast but you guys are layin' the bikes down quite a bit! lol
    #70
  11. Lost Rider

    Lost Rider Roadie

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,328
    Location:
    Ventura County, California Republic


    Just burn that into your mind, even the worst of situations while traveling is better than a good day at work....

    Ride on and stop breaking stuff, you have a long ways to go! :evil
    #71
  12. Reload270

    Reload270 M R Ducks!

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    82
    Location:
    Grande Prairie, Alberta
    Great RR!! Subscribed!! I'll be paying close attention to your journey as I am planning a similar trip on my KLR in the the near future. Safe Journey!!
    #72
  13. hvilla

    hvilla Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    152
    Location:
    Aztec, NM, USA
    Thanks for the great RR. Looking forward to following along! Safe travels!:thumb Subscribed! :ricky
    #73
  14. wacuff

    wacuff F800GS

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    22
    Highly enjoyed the Ride Report. Keep it up and safe travels as you keep heading south.
    #74
  15. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    LOL... yeah we like pushing it to the limit. It's more fun this way and the bikes can take it.
    #75
  16. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    Very true :1drink

    We only break stuff we can repair :D

    #76
  17. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    When I woke up I was exhausted. Alberto's back was also not to good after all our adventuring yesterday so we decided to stay another night in Caborca. This took the pressure off and we had a very leisurely morning. The breakfast at the hotel was excellent and the staff extremely friendly and helpful throughout the day.

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]<table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the hotel staff</td></tr> </tbody></table> [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]I didn't have many great achievements today: updated the blog, I watched the second half of Chelsea vs Arsenal, I took a nap. It was a pretty low key day, but it felt really good. I watched the Simpsons in Spanish in hopes that I might pick up a thing or two. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]In the evening Marcelino, his family, and Emanuel took us out for dinner. Marcelino ordered for us and it was excellent food. Homemade, authentic tortillas are the best! They also took us on a tour of town. We got to see the church where a battle occurred between the Mexicans and the Americans. It was very interesting because you could see the bullet holes on the walls from the battle and the church was very pretty and large.

    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gang out at dinner. Salud!

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    A cow's head? weird :huh

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    Coolest mono around

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    Concepcion Church where Gringos and Mexicanos fought in the past

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    You cans still see bullet holes on the church's walls
    </td></tr> </tbody></table> [/FONT]
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]Thank you Marcelino, Emanuel and your families for all your generosity and kindness. We have enjoyed our time in Caborca very much.[/FONT]
    #77
  18. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    There was a crazy thunderstorm in the middle of the night; huge thunder, hard rain and lightening. The rain, or maybe the thunder, was so strong it triggered the alarm on one of the bikes. Just earlier yesterday Alberto was talking to someone who said it hadn't rained in 3 years. I guess the streak was broken. Everything was pretty much dry when we woke up though. Just a few puddles here and there.

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]We stopped by Marcelino and Emanuel's family factory to say goodbye in the morning. On the way we called in at the Autozone for some chain lube and a map. Success with the chain lube but the tiny map was like 129 CAD and the book set was almost 200 CAD. We passed on that one. I guess we will keep the inaccurrate free BMW issue map. We said hi and goodbye to Marcelino and Emanuel. We also got to meet their father and sister, who helped us out with directions on the new road. [/FONT]
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    The road we didn't know of ... 'la costera'

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    The flora around

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    Close-up

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    Riding high

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    Typical desert road with no-one around

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    One tall & lonely cactus

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    Talking about lonely cactus ..hehe

    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]The road to Desemboques was windy. The road was also shockingly straight but at least that gave us a chance to admire the scenery. If you grew up in Arizona it probably wouldn't be that impressive but for me it was great. Once we got to Puerto Lobos you could see the Sea of Cortez too. The ocean was a nice addition to the mountains and catus forests. When we reached Puerto Libertad we stopped for gas and a small lunch break at the beach. The water was beautiful and definitely worth the drive. The highway, which wasn't on our map, is almost done being built. There were a few sections that weren't finished where we had to take dirt detours. It was like being on a motocross circuit: up and down, up and down.

    [/FONT]
    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the scenery: A cactus forest

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    Puerto Libertad

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    El Mar de Cortez

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    Too close to the water :rofl
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    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puerto Libertad and the Sea of Cortez

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    Pelicano

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    U guys going south too? :lol3

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    Naomi likes the shade

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    Wrecked ship

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    Time for a walk

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    Our babies

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    Un barco a la deriva
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    After Puerto Libertad the road travels inland. The scenery is more of the same: mountains + cactus but we enjoyed it. There was even a section of road that was slightly flooded for those out there that need a little adventure.

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    :eek1 ......................:huh

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    First things first :evil

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    Alberto goes first :wink:

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    Flooded section of the Costera HWY

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    ...............................................................:D

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    'Danger is my business / Yo amo el peligro' - Cool McCool

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    Do you call this a highway? :eek1

    The road finally took us to our destination: Bahia de Kino. What a beautiful place. We met a Chilean, Francesco, who has lived here for several years and he assures us that this is the best place on earth. He kindly invited us into his home and let us camp on his roof. It doesn't get any better than falling asleep under the stars listening to waves crashing on the nearby beach.

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    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bahia de Kino

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    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view from dinner at the beach

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    Kino

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    (no) sunset :lol3

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    Ceviche Mexicano

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    Bedtime
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
    #78
  19. MotoLara

    MotoLara ADV rider wannabe

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    857
    Location:
    Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]When I woke up because it was light out I was already starting to sweat. I don't know if I'm cut out for these warmer climates. We went for a walk on the beach and had a swim. The water was amazing. It was the perfect temperature: score 1 point for the Sea of Cortez. There were lots of fish and some nice waves. When we walked back to Franceso's house he invited us in for breakfast. We had a lovely breakfast with him and Norma. Thank you very much guys for your hospitality. [/FONT]

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    Waking up in B. de Kino

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    Saying goodbye to Francesco (and Norma)
    </td></tr> </tbody></table>
    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]By the time had packed the bikes we were both pretty sweaty (it seems to be a common theme) so it was nice to get moving and feel a bit of a breeze. Our cooling vests are working well. That was a good score in Tuscon. The road was pretty boring to Hermosillo, and longer than I had expected as well. But Bahia de Kino was worth the detour. It's a very nice beach town. We stayed in Kino Nuevo, so I can't comment about Kino Vejo. When we reached Hermosillo a cop pulled us over. I didn't realize he was trying to pull us over (since I was looking for road signs) until he chased us down. As it turns out we were speeding in a school zone. When my options are: 1) Follow the speed limits and get squashed by cement trucks, or 2) Have an outstanding ticket in Mexico I think I'll always choose option 1. The funny thing is, for anyone who knows and rides with me, is that I was leading... so MY reckless driving got us pulled over. Now there is a shocker. So once the traffic police officer nearly killed us pulling us over he gave us the sob story: I'm keeping your licenses until you pay, you're wasting my time because I had to chase you down, blah blah. He even threatened to take Alberto to jail at one point. Anyways, long story short we got our licenses back, but wasted a bunch of time talking to the cop in the heat.

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    Lunch time on the side of the road

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    This wouldn't fly up in Canada.... no way!

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    Un pequeno Saltamonte
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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]After finding our way out of Hermosillo and onto HWY 16, boy do I miss TomTom when navigating in cities, it was smooth sailing. The road was really straight and it was still pretty hot outside until we got through Tecoripa. Boy, then the twisties start flying at you from all angles. It was hard to fully enjoy it though for fear of oncoming traffic not being in their lane. Still it was a welcomed change, not to mention the glorious cooler temperatures of the mountains. The scenery was also very nice, but there weren't really any places to pull over and get photos. I guess the spectacular views will have to live on in my memories.

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    <table class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody> <tr><td style="text-align: center;">[​IMG]
    </td></tr> <tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A small taste of the scenery
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    [​IMG]
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    [FONT=Verdana,sans-serif]Sun sets behind the mountains

    We are resting our tired bodies in Yecora tonight. Sounds like Alama, QC with the people speeding outside the hotel with the music playing loud. [/FONT]
    #79
  20. TK-LA

    TK-LA SoCal Rider

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    573
    Location:
    Southern California
    If BMW was smart they'd pay you for this photo and use it in their ad campaign. Very cool.
    #80