Cape York & into Asia via Timor-Leste, Indonesia, etc

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by The Bigfella, Nov 10, 2011.

  1. Sleepy John

    Sleepy John Grumpy Adventurer

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    Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
    Much appreciated.
    #61
  2. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    OK... I'll get to my next update in a while, but here's my public service announcement... seeing how we got stuck into this stuff a few times...

    The arak we drank, in both Indonesia and Timor-Leste was most certainly home-brewed... sold in old water bottles. I've heard others say they have seen motor scooters run on this stuff.

    It has its detractors, for good reasons. This from The Australian online today.

    The results of an autopsy on a promising young rugby player who died in Bali have revealed he was killed by methanol poisoning - likely to have come from an incorrectly distilled local brew.....

    Denton's family have urged people travelling to Bali to be aware of the dangers of the drink, The West Australian newspaper reported.

    The brew - called arak, which is distilled locally - is thought to have killed at least 30 people in the past two years.

    Arak is produced from fermented rice, palm sap and other plants. But if it contains methanol - a by-product of incorrect distillation - it can cause brain damage, blindness and death as it acts as a poison to the human body.

    In 2009, 25 people - including several tourists - died in Bali after drinking a batch of arak containing methanol. And a 25-year-old Australian nurse is still battling brain damage and kidney failure after drinking a cocktail containing methanol-laced arak on the final night of her holiday on September 20, just days before Denton died.

    Paul Denton said: "We want to warn people travelling to Bali about these drinks. We have heard of past cases of this happening and we want people to be aware of what can happen so nobody has to go through what we have gone through."

    Gainey told The West Australian that Denton did not drink any more than his teammates, some of whom had also been drinking a cocktail called Jungle Juice, which contained arak.

    About 10pm, Denton had complained of feeling ill and was escorted him to his room.
    <SCRIPT type=text/javascript>if ( 2 < document.dcdAdsI.length ) { document.write('<script type="text\/javascript" id="' + document.dcdAdsI[ 2 ] + '" src="' + document.dcdAdsU[ 2 ] + '"><\/script>');}</SCRIPT>
    <SCRIPT language=javascript><!--PushDartJSAd('STORYBODY', 2, 300, 250, '300x250');//--></SCRIPT>When checks were made on him less than an hour later he was unconscious. Attempts to resuscitate him were unsuccessful and he was pronounced dead at Sanglah Hospital.

    Methanol is normally used for industrial purposes.

    University of Western Australia professor of medicine and pharmacology David Joyce told The West Australian: "Methanol is a very potent poison and it only takes the equivalent of one standard drink to blind you and not much more to kill you."
    #62
  3. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Well, I've searched and searched... and I can't find the photo I wanted... so the words will have to do. Damn it, because it was a good one and I had Andras' permission to use it.

    So... we choofed off to "the pub" in Bajawa. It didn't open till 8pm... and it turned out that the pub had rooms attached and was more of a karaoke bar than anything else. Well, OK, it was really more of something else than a pub which explained the look back at the hotel when we announced where we were going.

    Merni (our guide) had brought along a bottle of Arak in a 620ml Bintang bottle. I had a couple of Guiness mixed with Arak. I was surprised to see Guiness... it was that or Bintang. Arak is that home brew rocket fuel, as mentioned in my last post... and we spent the rest of the night fending off the girls.

    It was real dive, in behind a tin fence. Merni and Andras had a dance with one of the girls (and I do mean dance, nothing else). The missing photo is Merni and Andras, with that girl sandwiched in between.... clothes on, of course. They danced rather well actually.
    I gave her 15,000 rupiah - call it $1.50, to sing us some Karaoke. Nice girl - working to get enough money to start her own restaurant back on Lombok. Tough way to raise capital.... and I don't mean the singing.

    I hate to admit it, but we'd ridden to the pub - which was across the other side of town... and we observed Rule 2 when we rode back to the Hotel Happy Happy. Our mate decided he'd show us how well he could ride when pissed... but we wouldn't play. We rode "home" slowly.

    Next morning Merni turned up early because he was due to take Lucia up Inerie... the volcano she'd been perving at all the day before... this one

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    Anyhow it was clouded in, with a bit of rain around, so we all changed our plans. We decided to hang around another day, rather than ride west in the rain and Lucia joined us. She'd been on Skype with her Sicilian boyfriend overnight... and he'd read the riot act to her about Aussies on motorbikes.... but fortunately she was easily led.

    Meanwhile.... Merni suddenly jumped up and said he'd forgotten something... and he'd be back. Twenty minutes later, he was back and we hassled him until it emerged he'd forgotten his underpants.... which meant we harangued him all day about what he must've got up to.

    We headed of to another traditional village, Wogo.

    Not everyone at Wogo was happy to see us

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    Maybe he knew I'd eaten cat in Vietnam last year? Bastards of things, cats.

    I found this interesting. A couple of guys chopping up a banana plant... the stem, for pig food. They cooked it up too

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    The locals are quite friendly, really.... this was out at the megaliths near Wogo

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    It wasn't easy to find - even our guide had to ask directions.... down a dirt track, then through the bamboo forest.

    Ahh, bugger it. They look better like this

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    We found the local geothermal power station too and had a play in the boiling mud

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    The chook transportation is quite well developed. The ones I really love are where about 40 chooks are tied to a rack out each side of a bike... when the bike leans into a corner, the chooks have to lift their heads to avoid the road.... it looks like a bloody great big feather duster polishing the road

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    We headed out the other side of town and after a bit of difficulty again, found another volcano to climb, Wawo Muda, which only emerged in the year 2001 - well, blew up really - and yes there was a steepish climb involved after we eventually did a self-preservation call and parked the bikes.

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    Yeah... she's a dirty girl

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    Climbing up out of the crater lake (dry this month... wet last month)

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    The descent... the bit before this was quite gnarly... had to throw Lucia off or risk throwing her off another way.

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    We headed off from there, out a different direction again to Soa, and the touristy hot springs. Quite commercial compared to the day before.

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    Lucia reported in via SMS after we'd left Bajawa... she had a motorcycle accident the next morning with our guide, Merni, in Bajawa - he'd been very keen on her I might add. He hit an oil spill.... and given his bike had 2 bald tyres that I'd chipped him about... they came off. She's bruised, but OK. If I was still there, I'd have had a piece of him. I like having a pillion on board when I'm without luggage... as it raises my danger awareness to a new level. Hopefully he learnt a lesson.

    Oh yeah... Lucia had told her boyfriend that she was only riding with us for one day... and apparently when she reported back that she'd done another day... she got the silent treatment. Gee... if her boyfriend ever reads this.... its OK mate... we Aussies are gentlemen.
    #63
  4. ata

    ata expat in the jungle

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    hope he could not understand your signature :lol3

    an incredible route, rather than cultural. I think to really know the places where you spend, you must mingle with the people who live there and ask them about their culture (that's fine) but also their way of living day to day
    awesome RR
    #64
  5. mujiburrahman

    mujiburrahman Been here awhile

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    its good to see the eastern side of Indonesia :) thanks for your journey and report
    #65
  6. Sleepy John

    Sleepy John Grumpy Adventurer

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    :rofl:rofl:rofl
    #66
  7. RDT953

    RDT953 Been here awhile

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    In the planning and preparation stages for my own travels in 2012 now and stumbled onto your RR. Great journey and great report, thanks for sharing. A Canadian mate and I hired bikes from Jules in Vientiane last year and rode part of the HCM trail, it's a great part of the world and I'd love to get back there on my own bike one day.
    #67
  8. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Thanks guys. I wrote a response last night then had the damn hotel wifi cark it and gobble up my reply.

    Lessee how my memory is.

    Re the eastern part of the Indonesian archipeligo - I'd love to spend more time there. Justin and Lain (the kayakers I met) went further into the islands east of Flores, and I hope to catch up with them and see what options might exist. I'd love to spend more time in Flores.

    Re how people live day to day... yes, its a tough life in some of those places. I spent a fair bit of time talking to people about daily life... and my next post will take us into some students' lives.

    Some of the people we met weren't far beyond subsistence living. Alex, the former resistance leader in Timor-Leste that we stayed with was interesting to talk to. He said that in his village, about 20-30 people had paid jobs (police, teachers and a few other government posts) and the others - IIRC about 900 people - scraped together a living as best they could, selling some produce at markets and so on. We asked him what they most needed and he said it was "roads"... to make it easier to get stuff to market.

    One guy I spent some time talking to in Indonesia made $2 the day I was talking to him. I had to put together some tenders for work back home, so sat on a beach with my feet up, working on a laptop, while he tried to sell stuff to people wandering past. $2.... and he had a wife and two kids to support.

    These guys see us spending more than that on a beer... then another one, then another one... There's no nastiness, but it can't be easy for them seeing us coming through without a money worry.

    Another one - We were worrying about tyre wear... my rear tyre was down about 40% after the first 1,000 km or so through T-L and into West Timor. The guy running a hotel (he ran the desk and slept out front at night for security) asked me what it was going to cost me for a new tyre.... (I'd been talking about my daugher bringing one up for me).

    "$200, or about 2 million Rupiah"

    "F@$k, that's six month's pay".

    He may have been exaggerating, but maybe not by much.

    Last year, I sat down in a thatched hut with 4 local guys in Cambodia. We got into a carton of beer, and some fried crickets and had a bit of a chat. They wanted out. Big time. They are sick of the government corruption... "you don't see it... the police never stop us if we have a tourist, but when you aren't here, they pull us over all the time for bribes. The government is corrupt and if we speak out, we will disappear" I won't post photos from there btw.

    So, yeah.... its a tough life out there.... but in some ways people seem quite content. They just get on with life.
    #68
  9. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Just on that issue of being invited in to people's homes that was mentioned earlier. We'd get introduced to everyone... even the kids

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    ... while the bikes attracted their own crowds

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    ... and from time to time, even the old ducks wanted to be in the photo... if I remember right, the lady in front was blind

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    Kitchen facilities weren't quite up to what my missus has.

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    So - after a couple of enjoyable days around Bajawa, we headed west. The plan for the day was to head off to Ruteng, find a hotel and see if we can get to the Hobbit cave. The Flores Hobbit people lived until about 12,000 years ago.


    Adults were the same height as our current 3 year olds.


    It ended up being non-stop corners all the way for 3 hours... you'd get maybe four nice corners, then an off-camber tightening one... or one with two trucks side by side coming your way, or.... something interesting. I ended up a tad dizzy from the ride..... Brake, corner, accelerate, brake, corner.... and there's about 4 gear changes with each of those cycles. No straights.... just corners. And we got rain towards the end.... nothing like a bit of sideways stuff eh? All these corners had vertical components to them too, of course.


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    When we got stopped at the roadworks, everyone came over for a chat

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    We stopped at what we thought was a restaurant on the way... and asked if we could get some food. It turned out we'd crashed a private party, not a restaurant. I gave the main guy there a packet of ciggies.... and indicated they were to share. They gave us a coconut each and wouldn't take payment. They loved it ant took plenty of photos on their phones... and we were away again. I popped a rather nice wheelie for them.

    It bucketed down after we got to Ruteng. Coming into town we were having some troubles with the directions, it being a very spread out place, so one of the local guys guided us in. We ended up going for a 4:30pm lunch... and then I got a $1.40 haircut. Lost the beard in the process, unfortunately. Thought I'd kept the goatee part... then, swipe... it was gone too. Kept the moustache though.... Bugger. Its not a good look. This haircut is going to last me for months.

    We never seem to get a minute to ourselves to catch up. A couple of uni students talked to us on the footpath as we arrived at our hotel... they are studying English and tourism studies and they've worked on Rinca Island as guides with the Komodo Dragons, so we bought them a couple of beers... and pfft.... another power failure. Not exactly a reliable power supply so far on this trip.

    The students invited us back to their place for dinner (they are from an outlying village, so have a rented room in town). It ended up being pretty basic - rice, greens (Col?... reminded me of cabbage) and some vegetarian protein... based on peanuts and tomato by the looks of it... washed down with hot water. They had a few friends around too - well, a whole heap of them actually, from young kids through to their auntie. They have set us up with a guide for the next few days when we get to the next town... which is the jumping off point for the Komodo Dragons and for Lombok.

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    After we got back, the hotel guy came to our room and strongly suggested we move our bikes to a safer spot up behind the hotel. The ride into there was "interesting" there was no room to turn around. Interesting of course means very steep, very narrow and very slippery. It was an engines off, backwards slide down in the morning to get out.

    Here's the Hobbit Cave.... a nice narrow road to get there - and our student friend, who skipped classes to take us there (we met his uni lecturer over breakfast and he didn't mind)... didn't really know the way.

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    Crappy monument at the cave... with a statue of an adult sized Hobbit. Detail from wiki:

    Homo floresiensis ("Flores Man", nicknamed "hobbit" and "Flo") is a possible species, now extinct, in the genus Homo. The remains were discovered in 2003 on the island of Flores in Indonesia. Partial skeletons of nine individuals have been recovered, including one complete cranium (skull). These remains have been the subject of intense research to determine whether they represent a species distinct from modern humans, and the progress of this scientific controversy has been closely followed by the news media at large. This hominin is remarkable for its small body and brain and for its survival until relatively recent times (possibly as recently as 12,000 years ago). Recovered alongside the skeletal remains were stone tools from archaeological horizons ranging from 94,000 to 13,000 years ago.


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    A local guy who claims to be a descendant, but in reality, he's just a short old bloke - in his 80's.

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    You can see the first dig areas in this shot... on the right. They found the first Hobbit bones 20' down.
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    There's a hole there that goes down a bloody long way.... you really wouldn't want to slip.

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    and some other interesting bits to the cave

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    The dig program is by no means over. There's piles of stuff there that isn't sorted through yet

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    While we were at Ruteng, as we were heading off to Labuan Bajo, we headed out to see the spider web rice paddies. There was a steep climb up to see them from a hilltop.... and I got some great photos, but I seem to have finally killed my 8 year old Nikon D100 when I got it drenched in my tank bag later that day. I'll get a card reader and see what I can do.

    In the meantime, I've pinched this one from the web...

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    Coming down from there, I managed to piss Andras off nicely. He'd parked in a tight spot, up off the road, while I'd parked on the road. He didn't hear me ask him if he wanted a hand to get out. Apparently he did... but I was down at my bike trying to make sure a 20 ton low loader didn't crush it... he missed me by about an inch. Anyhow... we both got out and dodged the potholes back to the main road and it was off to Labuan Bajo.

    Some riding shots. Had an amazing ride from Ruteng... it bucketed down while we were in the mountains. Andras crashed at slow speed.... I had several sideways "moments".... including one, where I'd just overtaken an ambulance (with its siren blaring)... and I hit oil (trucks here just dump it on the road).... I reckon the save was my best bit of riding for decades.... I rode the slide into the mud on the edge of the road, where I at least had some control (of sorts) and avoided the 40 metre drop down to the next landing - rather than try to get control back on the oily road.

    Hmmmm. I decided to take my mucky eyeglasses off at that stage and I could see heaps better.

    Some corners look great

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    then halfway around you get a totally broken surface

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    This is the ambulance, with its siren blaring, that we eventually overtook 3 times. We stopped to eat and refuel and it got back in front of us.

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    The road was diabolical in the wet. Water washing over it, oil everywhere, this was a good bit

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    But the reward was a rather nice setting for a few days at Labuan Bajo

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    #69
  10. nathanthepostman

    nathanthepostman Been here awhile

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    Heya Bigfella,

    I passed through that part of the world myself a few years ago, but I didn't see it like you're seeing it. Such a beautiful, unspoilt part of the world and your RR's really taking me on a trip down memory lane. Just wanted to say thanks.

    Nate.
    #70
  11. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Thanks Nathan. Your trip was part of the inspiration for this one. We met at your book launch at Dymocks in Sydney btw. Yep... an amazing part of the world, with some amazing people there.
    #71
  12. wamba

    wamba Adventurer

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    Thanks for the great photos and storytelling. More, please.

    wamba
    #72
  13. ThirdUncle

    ThirdUncle Dusting my teeth

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    Big Fella,

    Just blew the last four hours on this, four hours that I'd promised someone -- well me -- that I'd work during, and pleased to report it was a good deal better spent than working. So, thanks heaps for the memory tweak.

    Back in '89, I hitched round Aus (Sydney, Adelaide, Perth, Darwin, Three Ways, Mt Isa, Townsville, Cairns, Cooktown, all that. Got a lift with two very gay Germans at one stage who then proceeded to spend 48 hrs. drinking to blindness at the Lion's Den. That place, it was better than the greatest literature. The most committed boozers I've ever encountered, all sharp and funny as hell, with stories better, as I say, than any fiction and the most obscene jokes that went on and on -- never met people quite like them anywhere else on earth. Course they assumed I was a gay German, and then Canadian, by association, which cranked up the absurdity levels significantly. I believe you'd call it a full on palava. Place looks identical to back then. Glad to see this.

    After that, Cairns again to Darwin into Kupang. A few days there, then the overnight ferry, the same one I think as you, Kupang to Larantuka, met heaps of great locals, tourists, accommodating Scandinavian backpacker girls, en route to Maumere. There, I shipped onto a Melbourner's local perahu pinisi wood cargo ship that he'd bought for a few grand and fixed up. Spent several weeks with him and his Aussie and local crew, sailing the islands north, like Jampea and Bonarote where he was buying rough teak planks to later smuggle into Broome without all the compulsory fumigation and documentation (he was a bit of a doof) to make a buck. Spent my days diving the reefs, chatting up chiefs and their multi-wives and laughing my ass off nights on the tuak -- quite similar to arak, perhaps less brain-shredding. (A few years later, Maumere got well done by a big tsunami; I saw a pic in the Bkk Post of a six-foot tuna, boiled as it swam, by the undersea volcano that caused the wave, delivered by it to a street in Maumere.)

    Loved Indo's beautiful insanity so much I did three visa runs to spent my first six months of Asia there, before heading up to Laos for other adventures involving civil wars and ducking bullets and lots and lots of unexploded ordnance, shenanigans with the KGB, CIA, Viet uranium sellers and many more, different madnesses. Ended up setting up shop in Sing for 7 yrs. till late '98.

    Managed to find the only single Indo girl here in Toronto 8 yrs ago and made her mine -- the only way I could really be sure I'd have excuses to get back there. She and her whole family are bonkers, in a good way, so the fun's never really stopped.

    All of which is my way of saying thanks shitloads for a wickedly tasty collection of pics and words and attitude. I shall be following.

    I know I don't need to say it, but say it I will in my still-crap Indo... hati-hati semua bodoh di jalan raya, dong.

    Paul
    #73
  14. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Nice one Paul.

    I was going to ask if your wife has a sister in Indo.... but hey, I'm a married man.... and no, I haven't got a hall pass, just a leave pass. :evil

    I'd love to spend some time boating around the archipeligo.... especially over east.

    Speaking of which... its time to do my post on Komodo.
    #74
  15. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Let's do a quick catchup with a couple of extra photos eh?

    This was the guy who grabbed us a couple of coconuts when we crashed a party at a roadside house... thinking it was a restaurant. What I want to know is how these guys keep all their digits? I've been carrying a machete under the seat and the one time I hacked into a coconut, I wasn't game to hang on to it.... and if you think I'm a coward... I dare you...

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    Here's another shot of Mr Vincent with my bike. His sarong disguises his height a bit. Yep... handlebar height.

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    ... and a shot of the kids who joined us at our friends place in Ruteng. These kids got into the coffee with us and ended up jumping around outside like ADHD kids on red cordial...

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    This shot doesn't look much without some context

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    That's a common sight on bridges.... missing road surface - and for that matter, sub-surface. You'll lean into a nice corner onto a bridge and discover one of these 6" wide rift valleys. There's no bottom to that. Put a wheel into it and you are gone. Guaranteed. It pays to pay attention.

    Here's another interesting one. I'm pretty sure this is kapok. My grandfather used to have a compressed medical and industrial gases business, back before WW2 (lost it due to the war)... and Dad and his siblings used to have to stuff acetylene cylinders with this.

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    We saw a lot of those trees beside the road and some of them were dropping those big balls of fluff.... and they'd leave a trail of it floating through the air. Surreal... like being bombed.

    OK... enough of the catchup... back to Labuan Bajo. I love typing that town's name, because I was stuffed if I could say it for ages. Some names don't stick with me and that was one of them. Anyhow, we caught up with our pre-arranged guide, Florie.

    We "bought" a boat. We must've bought it... its 5 million rupiah for 2 days, 1 night.... about $500. That includes the captain, cook.... and cabins even, or a mattress up top if we choose. We go to Rinca Island first, overnight at Fruitbat Island, and the plan is to raft up with another boat, whose captain I did a pub crawl with my first night in Labuan Bajo along with our guide.

    I got back from the pub crawl (more damn karaoke) to find the guide from that boat "asleep" at our table... somewhat inebriated. I convinced Andras that it wouldn't be responsible to wake him up and put him on his bike.... so they'd arranged a mattress for him, last I saw.

    Here's "our" boat.

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    Of course, if we'd had a bit more time, we could have rustled up a couple of nice backpackers to share the boat... it wouldn't have cost us any extra for more heads on the boat.... but we were short on time - we thought. I'd committed to my daughter flying to Bali to meet me.... and to bring me a new tyre and some other bits.... like a new rear disk, as mine was getting very loose.

    Oh yeah... the pub crawl. I guess this is publishable. All the girls at this karaoke hall had the same outfit on. Amazing. Maybe they worked there?

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    Anyhow, the guys like dancing with her.

    The next morning, nursing our hangovers, it was downtown, grab a couple of cartons of Bintang and off to the boat.... which by now was floating and tied up to the wharf. We got to the boat and there was another westerner on board... and I was feeling a bit anxsty about the prospect of sharing it, given what we were paying. It turned out he was a Russian guy who owned the boat. Checking that all was OK for us... and he declined our invite to come along.

    Looking at the boat next to us, I was feeling quite happy with the condition of ours.

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    Dry rot on a boat isn't the best thing to have around.

    Ours was OK though, and off we went... with a stop for a snorkel on the way.

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    There's a LOT to cover on the Komodo Dragons... so I'll do that next time round.
    #75
  16. ThirdUncle

    ThirdUncle Dusting my teeth

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    Convert, and you could marry all three of my wife's sisters. They're in Bandung though, a city of exceedingly few charms, other than the three I allude to.
    #76
  17. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Hmmm - now there's a thought. Another three wives.

    OK..., let's change the topic from wives to Dragons eh?

    This is a lovely wooden tourist boat we passed on the way out of Labuan Bajo

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    A local fishing boat. Sorry about the second boat behind.... mucks up the shot a bit, but this shows the massive beam of these things with their outriggers.

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    We visited the two main islands where the Komodo Dragons are. Rinca and Komodo, with an overnight stop between them.

    They'll let anyone drive these tourist boats by the look of things. I did mention that things got a bit ugly around the head after that visit to the $1.40 barber.

    Sheesh... practically shorn on top, no beard. What's the world coming to?

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    Whenever we pulled up out around the dragon-occupied islands, which we did a fair bit so that we could snorkel over the coral, etc, some locals would show up and try and flog us some souvenirs... without much success. This guy was a hoot.

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    They tied up alongside us at one stage and all the guys were sanding away at wooden dragon carvings. I felt a bit guilty when we pigged out on banana fritters (and Bintang) and as a bit of an afterthought, I offered the last one to this kid....

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    His old man grabbed it, snaffled half of it and handed the rest to the kid. "Hungry" he said.... or words and actions to that effect. I really did feel an arsehole for not having thought to share some more. As is always the case, it was a different relationship with them after that. Friends (sort of) not just targets. They stayed alongside, sanding away with scraps of sandpaper for ages.

    Our crew were fabulous cooks

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    Sunset over the islands

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    I ended up sleeping on the cabin top of our boat, which was very pleasant. Up here, under a bit of an awning

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    We were rafted up to another boat, with 3 Americans (we met them again onshore for dinner) - Doug is retired from high-level govt work in Washington, Joanne, his wife is a travel writer (took our details... sounded like we were appearing in a story) and Heather, their daughter, is married to a World Bank guy and is living in Indo for a while. She was quite interested in our views on the UN in Timor-Leste.

    Doug heard me waking the crews up at 3:30am to re-secure the boats as we drifted through the bay from Flying Fox Island.... just off Komodo Island. This might explain our predicament a bit... one of the guys on the Arak... on top of the couple of dozen Bintangs we'd taken along

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    I have to say, it was damn hard to wake them up.

    Now.... Dragons.... Big Dragons.

    Here's a big steamer we found on the walking trail. That's a damn serious lizard poop.
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    and a tail drag mark and claw prints on our track....

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    Sort of funny walking the island knowing that you are being stalked. The last tourist to get eaten was a Swiss guy back in '74... but the guide who was bitten 2 weeks ago had to be flown out to Bali for treatment - after a long, slow boat ride

    Our guide on Komodo Island said we were extremely lucky to see this. 3 Komodo Dragons and 2 stags (Timor Deer) at the waterhole. Adult Komodo only need to eat once a month, target carrion and water buffalo, deer, pigs, humans, etc... and here they were, trying for a venison snack.

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    Right about now, I was really, really spewing that my D100 had died. Still... the little P&S did a reasonable job.

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    They are big buggers .. 10' long and the largest studied was 165 kg. The females guard the eggs vigorously, but will eat their own young once hatched... so the young take to the trees. We saw one young one.... about the size of an Aussie goanna.



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    They can run at 18kmh.... I've got video of one walking but its a bit dodgy. My guide got a bit panicky a couple of times when I snuck in for closeup photos. The guides all carry a forked stick to fend the big buggers off if they have a shot at a 'long pig' snack. This is on Komodo

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    There really was a lot of food around for the dragons...

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    You have to love the local engineering. Our anchor is a typical example.

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    Flying Fox Island

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    #77
  18. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,545
    Location:
    One of the Burj's
    I watched a battle of life and death whilst suffering in the bog on Rinca. The lizard won...

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    The locals were back at our boat early in the morning.... this time to sell fish and squid. No such thing as retirement on a pension over here. This guy will fish until he drops

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    ... and thank you very much, fresh squid.


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    The guys on the other boat bought that lot. Here's their galley being put to good use


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    This is the fishing village on Komodo. The Dragons have been known to eat the occasional villager, but it doesn't happen often

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    We had a bit of a chuckle with the actions of these three women. Two jumped on board after they'd pushed their fishing boat out a bit... then the chubby one tried, and tried... and eventually got on, much to everyone's amusement

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    We got our guide to ask the skipper if we could dive with the Manta Rays on the way back in.... so, it was on with the gear and over the side when he spotted them... a fair way out from the nearest island

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    This is a bit of a crappy shot, but our guide snapped one of a 6-8' Manta Ray as it went past us

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    At one stage the Rays had moved away, so the skipper had me grab the busted up, swinging ladder.... and towed me over to them again. Rather strange sticking my head under water and looking at the prop going around behind me as we went along. Not sure a tourist operator would do that at home.

    Andras and I had a fabulous time snorkelling with the Manta Rays. One large one we were following did an upside down loop under us, white belly up and then came up behind us. Fabulous.

    We pulled into another island for a snorkel over the coral, not too far out of Labuan Bajo. Plenty of other boats there and I ended up chatting to a Dutch woman and inviting her to join us for the Reggae night at the bar where we were staying.

    Speaking of which... it was nice to relax there with a Bintang and watch the world go by after a couple of fabulous days out in the archipeligo

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    Here's the Saturday night sunset from the Paradise Bar - we were staying in the adjacent hotel rooms.

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    Our American friends Doug, Joanne and Heather, who we'd met out at Flying Fox Island (oh yeah... there were plenty of flying foxes out there btw)

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    Doug graciously bought us dinner.... he said our travel tales were well worth it.

    After they left, we were due to do a Karaoke bar tour....but I was somewhat relieved when the Dutch woman I mentioned earlier showed up as we were getting on the bikes. The Karaoke bars are dives... and mostly crawling with women trying to convince you that they love you.

    I stayed at the Reggae night at the Paradise bar. Even did a fair bit of rusty dancing. We met up with the Russian girls we'd also met at a couple of beaches and who'd been on the Dutch girl's boat. They spent all their time at the beaches posing for each other's camera.... and making a lot of eyes pop. The Russians are on the outside... I sure wish I'd got some photos in their bikinis

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    Here's a video of the band that played at the Reggae Night. I thought they were pretty good.... some of the "entertainers" I've heard in tourist areas in Asia are like listening to comedy routines, they strangle songs so comprehensively.

    <IFRAME id=yui-gen183 class=restrain title="YouTube video player" height=390 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/O0KrZNjS2rU" frameBorder=0 width=640 aspect="1.64102564102564" origheight="390" origwidth="640"></IFRAME>


    You may recall I posted a photo of a couple of the band members at the wedding we attended in Moni, about 500km away. I think they were also in the photo of the 30 or so guys in that giant bath tub at the hot springs

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    Meanwhile, Andras went to a couple of the local bars with our guide Flory (far right) and his brother... who was the guide for the Americans.

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    They ended up back at the Paradise bar... and we had tears and hand kisses from the guides as they left after the bar shut at 3am. They were very emotional.

    Andras decided he wasn't going to make the ferry at sparrow-fart, a 7:30 am departure to Sumbawa on Sunday morning - which would mean getting up no later than 6am to load the bikes, get tickets and get on board. Sumbawa is a "dry" island btw... entirely Muslim and no alcohol on sale apparently, although an Aussie guy in Bali had told me there was an international resort somewhere that did serve it.

    I was going to try for a 2 or 3 day blast through there, then on to Lombok. My daughter had a ticket into Bali (thanks to her Dad) and was going to get the fast boat over to Gili Trawangan to meet me.

    I had to do 4 trips up the hill to load the bike. I was still dripping sweat profusely an hour after I'd sat down on the ferry. Bike just leaned up against a ferry wall - although eventually one of the crew tied it in a bit. Sumbawa was a mid afternoon arrival. I ended up having to pay a crew member an extra 15,000 rupiah because I sat down in 1st class on an economy ticket.

    When I got to Sumbawa, I hightailed it through to Bima and found some dive of a hotel.
    #78
  19. loxsmith

    loxsmith Good ol days my arse

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    482
    Location:
    Ex. Little village called Brisbane, Australia
    Loving the story, keep it up!!! :clap
    #79
  20. Mr.lien

    Mr.lien Behind the line

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    65
    are you crossing Jakarta??? if yes, we will met you there, ;D
    #80