CB desert sled

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Luke, Sep 6, 2012.

  1. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    The welder's a 130A stick inverter. For TIG I'm usually running the current between 50 and 70A, so that part runs cool.

    This is the first time I've warmed up the torch anyway. Usually I'm fussing around for 15 minutes for each 30 seconds of welding.
  2. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    Why do I feel a sudden urge to install security screws on the float bowls? :lol3
  3. oregoncoast

    oregoncoast Racing Like a Noob

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    This would be a very wise move, since Rick has unfettered access to his own shop.....DAMHIK
  4. Loud Al

    Loud Al .

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  5. MortimerSickle

    MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer

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    Rainville, Orygun, where moss is a road hazard.
    Story? or mystery?
  6. LC Garage

    LC Garage On Any Sunday

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    They are just busting my chops for "polishing" the floats on Paul's SL350 (last winter), and this one got caught in the wheel, flew across the room and was ruined. A vigorous discussion then ensued on the proper use of the bench grinder or "precision polishing device". :lol3
  7. MortimerSickle

    MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer

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    Oh, sorry about that. :D
  8. Kootenai Rider

    Kootenai Rider Displaced Adventurer

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    Good to hear you're supporting the local shop. It was pretty quiet when I was there last now that Harbor Frieght opened down the street.
  9. LC Garage

    LC Garage On Any Sunday

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    Thanks, I almost forgot and went to the box store, but then remembered our friends in the local small shop. Got to do our best to keep the mom and pop stores going! :D
  10. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    The battery box is mostly installed, but turned out a bit crooked. It was a pretty frustrating day and I just wanted to get it mounted. The welding mask started flaking out, which made the welding pretty hard- it'd cut out randomly while welding. Now that the box is mounted it should be pretty easy to straighten it out, though.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It's a tight fit with the swingarm.
    [​IMG]




    I mounted the seat pan. It's got a hook in the front and a tang in the back that is pinned in a clevis. I missed some pictures, so will get them later.
    Here's the rear mount seen from the underside.
    [​IMG]






    The battery box isn't the only crooked part. The swingarm turned out to be too far off to work, so it's getting modified again. The lesson here is that the order of the welds is critical. Instead of welding in all the reference parts (the axle mounts and pivot tube) and then the reinforcement crossbar, I should have started at the axle and worked forward, welding in the crossbar next and the pivot tube last.

    Well, here goes, again. The brake side of the swingarm needs to move out about 3/4 inch.
    [​IMG]

    Most of the crossbar has to come out, as it would be really doglegged otherwise.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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    Results. Yes the wheel is off, but it's off by just the right amount. There's one more thing on the swingarm to fix, but that's a different operation.
    [​IMG]


    And finally a gratuitous selfs portrait.
    [​IMG]
  11. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    So with all of that large steel tubing everywhere, strength should not be an issue, but what are you up to...12-1300 lbs? :lol3
  12. LC Garage

    LC Garage On Any Sunday

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    Current calculations are indicating approximately 30 stones...:wink:
  13. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    How big are THOSE stones...Stonehenge? Half Dome?

    I am teasing of course...I love the build. :thumb
  14. DRjoe

    DRjoe Long timer

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    When are you starting your build thread kellymac?
    I've got a feeling your gona cop a lot of teasing :lol3
  15. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    Hey Joe...I am expecting that...I dish, thus I MUST take.

    My build is actually going good. My neck is all tacked and plates are cut to gusset the steering head. Got my laced rear wheel and tire, GS shock and bike is setting up on the wheels. It is coming back apart for final welding.
    I plan on starting a thread soon. I suck at posting pics so I wanted to get a bumch loaded and do it all in one shot.

    Sorry for the hijack...

    PS: I actually know how much a "Stone" is and did not have to look it up. Your "Sled" will be much lighter than my beast.
  16. oregoncoast

    oregoncoast Racing Like a Noob

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    Duh!
    :thumb
  17. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    A little progress. The side-to-side alignment is mostly fixed. The position is right now, but it moved the right shock mount forward a bit. That'll have to come off and re-attached. The wheel was a bit off, the axle isn't quite level with the swingarm pivot. I corrected that; over-corrected a little, actually, but it's closer.

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
  18. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

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    Can't remember if you have one or not but a handy trick that may have helped a bit with the swinger if you have a tig torch you can dry wash certain welds to pull it back straight if it gets a bit tweaked during initial welding.

    And for square/rectangular tubing and bar stock only weld the outsides of the T's, if you weld the insides you'll end up bending the longer tube out of "straightness", plus those are more likely to cause cracks as well, just like saddle gussets on a frame, you see the welds run length ways with the tube, never across them, and when you do typically you see cracks form at the edge of the weld.

    Just some tricks I've learned as back when I was a welder/fabricator making ridiculously priced custom handrails and various other fixtures and shop machinery.
  19. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    There aren't any convenient welds for doing the kind of dry wash I think you mean; I was considering running some stringer beads down the outside of the tube but I guessed it was as likely to just make a mess as to fix things.

    I think the bracing tube that I used really does need to be welded all the way around to work properly, but a different type of brace would do the same job without needing to weld across the tube. Something to remember for the next one.
  20. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    So last up was the swingarm. But there's more. Moving the right tube moved the right shock mount, so it had to be cut and re-welded into the right place.

    Starting here. I never get tired of this view.
    [​IMG]

    The shock mount has been cut off and tacked back on, and is being checked for location.
    [​IMG]


    I've heard that "TIG in, Stick out" is a good way to weld thick things, so I tried it on this. The idea is that you do one pass with the TIG torch to get a good weld deep in the crack.
    [​IMG]


    Then, stick weld the joint to add a lot of material to get a good thick weld. This is after three passes of 3/32" rod.
    [​IMG]


    After checking the shock mount (still good) I finished up the axle slots. One of the slots was still off by 1/16", which made the wheel just visibly crooked. Now it's within a fraction of a degree of right, and good enough by eye.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]