Chain install grief...this really sucks

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Carlo Muro, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. Carlo Muro

    Carlo Muro Supercàzzola

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    OK, I'm officially pi$$ed.

    I'm pretty sure I just screwed up the master link on my new Regina chain and I'm not 100% sure it was all my fault. This was only my second ever chain install and I read all the instructions carefully as well as watched several videos and looked at several threads online. I got the chain all together, the O-Rings (or X-rings if you prefer) installed and the new plate pressed on to the master link until the master link was the same width as all the other links...(or very close. I don't have a micrometer).
    [​IMG]

    THe trouble started when I went to "mushroom" the rivets with the chain installer tool. This is a brand new Bikemaster Chain Breaker and Rivet tool purchased locally for...let's just say slightly north of $100. I put the Rivet Tip and the Anvil TIp inside the tool and began to press on the rivets. Much to my chagrin, the only thing that happend was that the rivet mushroomed out on the opposite side of the chain...the side where the Anvil Tip was. It's the rivet on the right side in the photo
    [​IMG]

    Trying to understand what happened, it occurred to me that there is no way on earth that the Rivet Tip is sharp (pointy) enough to compress and distort the head of the rivet... no freakin way!

    [​IMG]


    However, the Rivet Tip shown on this Youtube video does not appear to be any better

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Focg9nxyVpc

    what gives??
    #1
  2. anonny

    anonny What could go wrong?

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    Seems like your master needed divots on the pins, I'd get a new master, infact I'd check a few different brands and see if they are different.
    #2
  3. DELTATANGO

    DELTATANGO Motorcyclist and Dog Walk

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    The force on the chain is perpendicular to the rivets so the only the the bradding does is hold that plate on. The clip on the clip master links and the rivets do essentially the same thing.

    I like the clip style better. The last one I did, I put in the spacers and bradded it with a dolly and a ball peen hammer.

    It just has to hold on the plate.
    #3
  4. LuciferMutt

    LuciferMutt Rides slow bike slow

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    I wouldn't ride on a chain that had cracks in the rivet.

    OP, I also cracked my rivets on my first chain instal attempt. Got too carried away while swaging the rivets and didn't stop to measure enough which reminds me:

    You need to buy a micrometer or at least cheapy digital caliper so you can measure the diameter of the newly swaged pins -- it must fall within a certain tolerance.

    You can buy new master links by themselves. I ordered a couple on line so I had another extra in case I screwed up again.
    #4
  5. WeazyBuddha

    WeazyBuddha Carbon-Based Humanoid

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    In my experience it's best to get them right the first time (duh). Loosening then going back to tighten a bit more tends to start the cracking. It's always a bit nerve-wrecking for me.
    #5
  6. Flashmo

    Flashmo Whatever...

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    Wrong tool for the job.

    The tip shown in your photo is for master link pins that are HOLLOW. Works like a charm.

    The master link pins on a Regina are SOLID. Look at your own photo of your chain, your Regina master link pins should look similar to the other pins around it when using the right tool for a solid master link pin.
    #6
  7. Switchblade315

    Switchblade315 Long timer

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    When I bought my FZ-1 the guy gave me a new chain and sprocket set he was wateing to put one the bike. It had a rivet tipe link. Yep we broke the damn thing. Called the local shop and they had a clip type. Ill never use a rivet type. To much trouble.
    #7
  8. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    My biggest rule when pressing side plates and riveting master link pins:

    Stop every 1/2 turn of the press, back off, measure and eyeball the operation.

    Yes, it'll cost you another 20 minutes of time.

    But 20 minutes vs. days of downtime and performing the job yet again is a pretty good bargain.

    FWIW, I just installed a D.I.D. chain last evening; their master link has divots in the pins to assist the riveting process
    #8
  9. Carlo Muro

    Carlo Muro Supercàzzola

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    +1 i found that out after doing even more research. Apparently I'm not the first to have this problem. My understanding though is that the tool for the Vagina...I mean Regina is about $400. Is there another option for staking these things?

    Also, I saw a couple inmates said to use the clip type master link. The instructions say not to use it with over 500cc. I thought it was inferior. :ear
    #9
  10. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    I have never had an issue with a properly installed clip type master link. I have used them on bikes up to 1100cc.

    My "trick" is to press on the side plate just a little bit further than needed to slip on the clip, then un-press the side plate (using the breaker tool) so that it rides directly against the clip.

    I'd use a clip style master link if that's what came with the chain.
    #10
  11. Carlo Muro

    Carlo Muro Supercàzzola

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    ^^ the chain actually came with both and the box said not to use the clip on anything more than 500cc. I could probably get by with it since I'm not a drag racer or stunta

    now the fun will be removing my buggered up master link:evil
    #11
  12. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    Do you have an angle grinder?

    Although a press may work as your pins didn't really mushroom well anyway.
    #12
  13. Flashmo

    Flashmo Whatever...

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    I have a Regina on my bike, and have used the clip master link on the last 3 chains on my bikes (CBR & V-strom).

    My uncle was a MC racer in the 80's and taught me to do the clips in the following manner:

    1. Clean the master link sideplate and clip to degrease it.
    2. Closed end of the clip faces the direction of chain rotation.
    3. Put a little dot of RTV on the sideplate before putting the clip on.
    4. 2 wraps of safety wire around the clip through the link.
    5. Dab of RTV over the safety wire twist.

    Never had one loosen up, and the blue RTV is easy to spot when doing a general check or chain cleaning.
    #13
  14. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    I find the angle grinder works best. The extra heat helps loosen the parts too.

    Like this? That's a Quikee-Mart paper clip.:lol3
    [​IMG]
    I lost a clip on my TAT trip. Had to improvise.
    #14
  15. chammyman

    chammyman Been here awhile

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    I also got a Regina chain, this will probably get you all going but eventually the only way I managed to get it to work was just crush it with mole grips.

    Checked it the head swelled, managed about 5k's worth of hard use, mostly full throttle sitting well above 100.
    #15
  16. Carlo Muro

    Carlo Muro Supercàzzola

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    Thanks Flashmo! I'm a little confused on that safety wiring. Do you have any pics or is it just like the last post with the paper clip?? :lol3
    #16
  17. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    Flashmo's method goes over the top of the outer plate and behind it, emerging again at the bottom of the outer plate. As safety wire is quite thin it should never extend far enough inward to make contact with the sprocket.
    #17
  18. ttpete

    ttpete Rectum Non Bustibus

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    There weren't always fancy chain tools. For years, I headed over rivet links on Renold GP chain with an 8 ounce ball pein hammer and a block of steel to buck it with. The trick is to use many light blows, working around the pin and turning the edge over.
    #18
  19. Flashmo

    Flashmo Whatever...

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    Yossarian has it. Wire wraps around the clip and sideplate and will sit between the ends of the two links your master link is joining (in that little gap). It won't touch the sprockets or be rubbed by the neighboring links.
    #19
  20. dtysdalx2

    dtysdalx2 PITA but useful

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    Chalk it up to live and learn. Buy a few spare master links and practice.

    Have you seen the prices of these o/x ring chains lately?? :huh $100-$200 bucks! :eek1
    #20