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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by KTRMN8R, Jan 14, 2007.
I use a large flat bit from an impact driver set. It fits into a regular 8mm socket or spanner. You need something with a tip about 8mm x 1mm to get some decent leverage on the jet.
Thanks to all the above posts I have managed to sort out my clutch clunkfirst thing in the morning.
I found the High E gutiar string is the way to go, just remove the bolt and push the string down into the jet hole.
No need to remove the jet
I'm glad I saw this thread. My '06 950 SM (6500 miles) has just begun to not ratchet back on some up-shifts, irrespective of gear. I had recently lowered the lever a little and I thought I was hanging the lever up slightly with my toe.
I just read through this thread, removed the jet and yup, it was plugged. I'm a guitar player, so I cleared it with the .010 string.
Thanks, Orange Crush. This is why SM owners need to read this section, too.
I read somewhere that in repacking the clutch you should offset the first disk by one tooth, dose anyone know if the information is correct, and why is necessary to do that?
I just started working on the 950 to check the oil jet and push rod. I got a wee shock when HALF THE FREAKING PUSH ROD FELL OUT! :huh Bloody hell! The thing had snapped off in the middle and the clutch slave side piece with the retaining pin came right out. My local parts guy says one week to get the new steel push rod for $45 Cdn. I might as well upgrade to the Evo set-up while I'm at it.
The manual says to use compressed air. Blew it right out.
I read this thread with great intertest since I am seriously contemplating getting an Adventure fairly soon.
Reading all the way through the posts makes me wonder about things and want to ask, "what is causing the clogging"?
Is it because the filters/filtering system engineered within not doing it's job?
Is there additional outside dirt getting into this particular location for some reason?
Can't help but wonder. I am glad that I did read about it now I know that there is something that I will have to keep in my as for service when I finally own one.
ps. Inmates in the state prison use guitar strings for their home (cell) made tattoo guns - thay say that the string "gives" a little more than a needle, therefore is a bit softer on the recipient. Just thought I'd throw that in for your grey cells to contemplate.
Nothing unusual here. It's part of the scheduled maintenance. Folks are just asking how to do this themselves.
I can't the damm oil jet screw out... tried all my screwdrivers and still no grip. Wondering if actually there is a screw in there.
a #4 or #5 hollow ground gunsmith screwdriver works the trick for me.
Got to autozone and buy yourself a telescoping mirror for 3 bucks.
If you do not need to remove the jet then just poke a High E .010 steel guitar string , using your mirror, down in through the hole, which cleans it out just fine.
Although I'm new to KTM, in comparison to other manufacturers, it would seem that the motor comes from factory with a fair amount of assembly grease etc inside the engine, morso than the jap bikes I have owned. There is also a small amount of smarf that you find in most bikes.
Being a .30 jet, it's reasonably small for oil, and hence doesn't take too much to get it clogged. The oil filtration system is fine, no different to any other bikes. I imagine that after checking it's clear the first time, the liklihood of it re-clogging will drop considerably.
A couple of good oil changes early in the motors life really helps to flush out the crap. It's runs quite clean after that.
If I push whatever particle is clogging it back into the oil,should I be surprised when I check it and it is clogged again?
Wow, forgot I posted this thread.
Rider914, thanks for posting the photos and step-by-steps. And thanks to everyone for the added details.
I just did the clutch oil jet cleanout operation, and replaced the 17 tooth 16T c'shaft sprocket, on my '06 Adv-S. The clutch had been chattering and grabbing a lot, especially when cold ... very annoying. The chattery clutch combined with a cold engine and partial choke actually jeopardized safe tight-turns-with-feathered-clutch parking lot navigation.
The clean-out dramatically reduced grabbing (although still a teeny bit of chatter when cold). It also had other subtle effects -- the friction point seemed to either move or become more narrow, so I adusted the clutch lever reach for a closer-to-bar friction point. Also I barely noticed a bit more drag, like the clutch isn't fully disengaged, with a hot engine.
Former owner and my pal Todd had completely ripped up the clutch a few months before selling it to me, so when I read this thread, I immediately suspected the jet was clogged.
There's an interesting story around this. We were in the Elephant Hill area in Canyonlands with 15 Adv riders. We had a few Adventures, KLRs, couple of 525/ 530s, a XR650, and me on a V-Strom (which is a whole 'nother story).
Anyway we went clear the F back in there, around a bigass loop and had about 20 minutes of high-altitude graded dirt road until we popped out on the pavement. We were on-track to meet the wives at the truck at 6:00. Unfortnately a big rainstorm two days earlier had left the graded road still muddy and really sticky. Everyone was pushing, cleaning the mud, pushing, repeat. Grueling. Seven guys made it all the way through and seven turned back. Todd, riding the subject KTM 950 Adv-S, had mud-seized front and rear tires and musta just said 'f-it' and popped the clutch with big throttle. Instead if freeing up the rear wheel, he freed up the engine from the gearbox, for good. He left the bike, and asked his son to swap his 530 a KLR rider and Todd and son rode double all the way back to the Elephant Hill Trailhead, arriving well past dark at 10:30 pm. (Vstroms have really good headlights. But not much ground clearance, and they have fragile things hanging out which break with tipovers). Todd drove his truck in there the next day (it'd dried out that much in one day!) and picked up the bike.
But I digress. The Idaho Falls KTM shop replaced the clutch plates and replaced the fork seals as a precaution. Coincidentally, I was the first to ride the Adv after the repair and the top fork caps were leaking like crazy ... covered my face shield. Back to the KTM shop for top fork cap o-rings. A month later, I bought the bike and sold the Strom. When I observed clutch symptoms, and read CP's thread, I naturally suspected the clutch episode had left some clutch plate fodder in that jet, and it seemed possible the KTM mech didn't think about that jet when replacing the exploded friction plates. (Admittedly I'm not sure about this oversight. But my experiences with KTM mechanics have not been good -- to the point where I trust my own half-drunk amateur mechanic skills more than a dealer's mechanic. There's my answer to ScottR's question, message #15).
Jeeze, sidetracked again. Finally to my points:
- Theres a little serrated washer between the upper chain roller and bike frame. Very easy to lose this. Mine fell into a deep, dark cavern behind the footpeg mount. Very difficult to retrieve.
- There're some spacers in the sprocket guide which could come out and go down the drain when you wash your parts.
- How can you tell the jet is clogged?? Since the jet had oil it it, I couldn't confirm it was clogged. I inspected with a eye loupe and strong back light and could not see through it. I stuck a brush bristle through, noticing no resistance. Then cleaned out with contact cleaner.
- I wasted hours getting the jet out of the hole. Since I wanted to visually confirm a clog, I didn't want to use sticky-grease-on-a-stick. I drove to several stores looking for a slotted screwdriver screwstarter thingy. No luck. Here's what worked: Cut two narrow strips of duct tape, the width of the screwdriver blade. Place one strip sticky side out, around the driver blade. Wrap the other strip around the screwdriver shaft, sticky side in, holding the first srip in place. Keep the outside diameter smaller than the jet's hole. If you do this from the very beginning, then uscrewing the jet and extracting it from the hole becomes one operation... which has benefits since you cannot see down the hole. Same thing when reinstalling it... eliminates the question is the screwdriver blade in the jet's slot.
Of course, if visual verification of a clog is not possible, you could just as well use a glob of grease.
- It sounds like this is a very important maintenance point, since the oil also lubes the clutch pushrod. Look at Rider914's photos of his worn clutch pushrod. Wonder how much of that wear is from inadequate oil. Strange sequence of events that the Mattinghofen engineers would design in that channel and release the product with a plug, then later change the plug to a jet... I'm an engineer and I can imagine the conference room discussions around this. Seems to be a guiding principle there... look at all the unused threaded holes in the engine! There're hundreds of little design elements that seem to be there 'just in case'.
There's my (long and windy) two cents.
And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years -- Abe Lincoln
On our trip out to Indy and back a few weeks ago I started to notice the classic symptom-chattery clutch engagement when the bike was cold. I did enough searching and came upon this thread. After reading that early bikes have a plug and not a jet at all-i have always wondered how early my bike is, it was a factory demo- i decided to have a look in there. I got the sprocket cover,clutch slave off and the plug out and then started to look around for some thing to fit the slot in the jet. No regular screw driver with a tapered blade will fit down in the hole. I found one driver tip in my toolbox which promptly broke when i tried to loosen the jet. Got out the magnet and fished out the broken piece. By now im getting irritated and frustrated with not being able to see what's going on down in that hole. Next I take off the left tank. Much better, I can actually see the jet. Went to HD, buy a Dewalt #8 straight driver bit, rig up a long extension w/socket and finally crack the jet loose. I used the grease trick to retrieve the jet, not plug-that answers that question. But as noted above if you really want to see if your jet is blocked, find another way. Havent tried the bike yet, now that one tank is off I might pull the right side tank off and install those SAS blanking plates that have been on my workbench for 5 years.
Thanks to all that have posted.
I picked up a used 06 SM about two months ago with 3500 mile on it.
After putting 2500 miles on her i recently notice the clutch was crabbing sometime like she had early signs of warped plated. Clutch work fine, just seems more clunky than it was especially when looking for neutral while in gear.
I am going to put my 16 tooth on and check this. I bet this will fix my issue as well. i was about to buy new clutch plates...
I just love forums on bikes and how we all can share common maintenance issues and mods.
I've a SE 2007 and in my engine it was 30 the jet. I removed it changing with a 60 and everything works perfect.
You all may know this: but I made a jet that can be removed from the outside. It works well - but that's not what's interesting. I bored the hole to .013in it's supposed to be .012. That little change can be felt (this too I discussed elsewhere) but here's the point -if you can feel the oil pulse the clutch then the jet's clean - no need to check. The sensation of oil in the clutch is not a bad thing -doesn't seem to affect starting or idling. But it's a verification of proper function. Interesting?