cleaning up "dirty juggs"

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by wintonio, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    ok, sadly not "those" jug(g)s :cry. When I got my GS, the jugs and the valve covers had been painted black. I know that the squarish valve covers are generally black, but I want to know the best way to remove the paint from the piston jugs (by red arrow) without harming anything. I have gallons and gallons of paint thinner and stripper here at work, but damhik that certain materials get eaten by these chemicals, while others are impervious to them. Any advice on getting the paint off?
    [​IMG]
    ALSO, I currently have a low fender. I bought a CC fork brace, and one of the 4 brace screws (yellow arrows) is now not long enough, I guess it was broken in the past. I have looked at the fiche, and it shows only a regular bolt, but what is currently on there is a bolt that goes down into the forks, then has a hex head in the middle, then a smaller bolt coming out the top, to which you push the low fender down onto, then tighten on some acorn nuts on top of the low fender to hold it in place. Is that a typical or atypical setup? Where do I get one more of those type bolts?
    #1
  2. camgregus

    camgregus riding gently now

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,014
    Location:
    on the banks of the mighty mississippi, AR side
    that is typical of my low fender GS. BMW dealer should be able to hook you up with replacements.
    #2
  3. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,409
    Location:
    Remember the Alamo!
    dot 3 brake fluid.

    Takes paint off like magic.
    #3
  4. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,593
    Location:
    3rd Ring of Buzztopia
    what's the painting evidence look like, Win-Win? Did PO take a spray can to the jugs or is the black finish 'pro' quality? If the black coverage is good (no runs no drips no errors etc) that motor may have been dismantled previously-- that would almost be required to get good paint coverage to places pretty damn-near inaccessible w/ the motor in the frame.

    That may be a hint to look at what else was tinkered with
    #4
  5. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    I know the motor was rebuilt previously, 2 owners ago, but the more I look, the more scared I get sometimes... now that I am really going over it, cleaning it, doing some upgrades, I am finding stuff that is wrong, like plenty of stripped hex bolt heads (and never within the same order placed to the dealer), or, say, a carb with a cross threaded idle mixture screw (new used carb body, on the way), just little frustrating shit.

    I've asked this before, but gotten no response: is there a (as Gunsmoke calls it) a "metal plug" that fits into the tapered end of each compression spring? I know there is/was one on the left (rebound) spring, but there was not one on the right. There is nothing I see like this on the fiche. I just installed a RT gold valve, and when I re-opened it tonight to install the new O-ring on the spring retainer, the right spacer tube was a bit lower than the left, like .5" or so... I am pretty damn sure that I did not lose or forget to install anything, and I cut the spacer the proper amount; I am mystified. HELP?!

    edit: thanks Dat
    #5
  6. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,593
    Location:
    3rd Ring of Buzztopia
    #6
  7. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    (in the damping fork)
    [​IMG]
    and that's a few fewer than what "I" see on the fiche.
    #7
  8. ROSKO

    ROSKO The Dirty Knacker

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    421
    Location:
    New York Mutha Effin' City
    If the paint is done well I'd say leave it. If not my suggestion is soda blasting, you should be able to find someone locally who does soda blasting for automotive restorations. If not try the Airheads list, there was a thread recently on this subject....
    #8
  9. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    9,804
    Location:
    Strangel Living West of Hell, SoCal
    ...wow, finally a pic of this bike wintonioio...white framed, very spiffy!

    I would NOT consider uing paint remover on anything, especially if the motor is in the frame...you'll end up with a caustic gloppy mess.

    If it where me, and it's not, and spend my time scrubbing the engine and black fins down with degreaser, soap, and 3M Scotchpads until you fingers blead.
    Then consider masking and rattlecanning the cylinders black again, say, with a matt black Krylon or Platikote automotive paint. YOu could go with a matt silver for an original appearance if you want.
    Then you'll have a clean look.
    You're never going to get all the paint off the cylinder and head fins properly without a dismantle and bead plast....end of story.

    The valve covers are a cinch. Get yourseldf a fine file and sick'em in a vise (padding) and file down all the scuffs and nicks and sand down the existing paint to acceptable smoothness. Clean your file often.
    Use and old valve gasket as a mask on the matting surface.
    Take some PepBoys striping tape the same size as the outer fins and apply to those (the decorative ones that aren't painted).
    Spray a coat of black primer, let it dry. Then a couple coats of SATIN black.
    Before it drys, remove the striping tape.
    Next day get out your CLEAN file again and go over the deco-fins. Smooth out to the original brushed finish with emery paper wrapped around your file.

    Voila!...almost good as new!:norton
    #9
  10. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    WOW! I must say, you guys here in Old School are like the polar opposites of the Goatse man (meaning you're anal retentive), which in this case (like every case depicting you as the polar opposite of Goatse man) is a good thing... YES, a very good thing. We must all strive to be not what Goatse man is, and be what Goatse man is not.
    RDog, I will try your method, which does indeed seem time consuming, and I am not a very patient person when it comes to that type of labor, but damn I like the look of the silver jugs much better than the black jugs. If I do use the silver paint, is it going to look all cheese-dick?
    #10
  11. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    9,804
    Location:
    Strangel Living West of Hell, SoCal
    ...mmmmm-maybe...experimenting with rattlecan paints is the key...
    since they are already black, why not give'm the TJ detail? It will be hard to get all of the fin-area covered as it is.
    Now, looking at your crookit-arrow pic, I can tell if your talking aboout the heads or the barrels or bofh...never seen either painted black, but considered painting my barrels black back in the day (ala steel barreled brit bike).

    If ya go silver, stay away from "aluminum" color paints, and "metallic" paints...try and find a muted silver. Plasticoat makes some automotive high-heay spray paint available at some CarQuest and NAPA stores.
    Good stuff, they might have a silver that'll work.
    They also make a low-gloss black that would work well...

    Either way, no matter what you decide, you're gonna hafta scrub it all down real good...or jess fergeddaboudit!!!
    #11
  12. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    is there such a thing as a wire wheel that has little stiff and resilient plastic wires instead of going the steel or stainless steel wire wheel route? I am seriously lazy and impatient. Is this the kind of exercise where you express to your machine your loving patience with it, or something?
    #12
  13. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    9,804
    Location:
    Strangel Living West of Hell, SoCal
    ...look, it's up to you grasshopper...o you want to take the time and go thru the bike and make it good-as-new or do you want to slam it and ride it?

    it's a process...I enjoyed the 3-4 months of nights and weekends I spent on my bike...and I've got what the Italian old folks call the "gring gring"...I can't stop until it's finished....oh yes, you become lost and overwhelmed, and even forget why you're doing it all, and re-doing it all when you f'-up by being impatient.

    But in the end, I-me-personally, wanted a bike that is reliable, lubed, tuned, and rust and corrosion-free....this takes lot's and lots of elbow grease, lots of hand cleaner, lots of breathing bad fumes, and lots of trips to the hardware and autoparts store, and internet forum(s)...

    Oh the agony!!!...:1drink :norton :clap

    by the way, I'm not done yet!
    #13
  14. woodgrain

    woodgrain In-Dented Savant

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2006
    Oddometer:
    830
    Location:
    east of Scarbaria
    There are wheels available that are made of Scotch Brite material. They might be the ticket. You can use a drill for a power source or a rotary tool.

    Woodgrain
    #14
  15. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    9,804
    Location:
    Strangel Living West of Hell, SoCal
    ...google the name "Flitz"...good stuff, and they have a felt wheel/ball that goe in a drill for their polish, works good on most surfaces...I did my wheels with it as well as the paint...and my bike was corroded too...
    #15
  16. wintonio

    wintonio last of the Dum Dum Daze

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,656
    Location:
    Castle Rock, CO
    I hate truths like that! Yah, you right... part of my problem is that I don't have a lot of freetime. Welding class 2 nights a week, 6-10 pm, dinner with the guys and a meeting on wednesdays, dinner and watching 24 with the woman on mondays, date night with the fiance on fridays, etc It ends up that I have to work on the bike late late at night, and any other time I can. My fiance says I am marrying the garage :lol3. I want to do it right, but I don't have a backup bike and am tired of not being able to ride :cry.

    Here's the plan: I will take your advice, do it right, but in the meantime, get it up and running. That way, I can go on a ride on a weekend day, and spend all my other freetime fixing it up and cleaning it and lubing it. :deal
    #16
  17. honcho

    honcho Barley Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    Viginia Mountains
    it will be worth it when your bike blings like a mofo. Rapid... you got some pics of your hard work?
    #17
  18. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    9,804
    Location:
    Strangel Living West of Hell, SoCal
    ,,,dinner and watching 24 with the woman on mondays, date night with the fiance on fridays,,,

    you got a woman aand a financee?:D

    ...got some kinda progressive thread going "Look what I got today" it's called, some pics.

    I guess I have to upload some to my website soon...:norton
    #18
  19. honcho

    honcho Barley Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    911
    Location:
    Viginia Mountains
    nice. some time and ambition really paid off. sweet bike dude.

    which bike are the black valve covers from?
    #19
  20. dfc

    dfc Reluctant Cannonball

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,778
    Location:
    FunkyTown
    Wintone, you oughta see my bike and stop looking at all these Simple Green Whores. Heres a close up of the rim
    [​IMG]

    I am the second owner on this bike. The PO lived in Alaska with it for a number of years, coated it thoroughly with Calcium Chloride (the shit they use on roads there), then had the gall to die.The bike then sat a couple of years before his wife brought it to the lower 48 and I bought it. Even after repeated pressure wash this shit is welded to the aluminum so tight you have to chisel it off. Not gonna do it, so be assured there will be an uglier '92 GS than yours. BTW, mine came to with both a lower and upper front fender.the fender bolts I have go through the fender and brace with a simple round socket head like this (#1)
    [​IMG]

    I figure your stud/nut came with special brace

    As for the black Jugs:thumb
    leave 'em alone and ride the damn thing (if you get those carbs fixed)
    #20