Clutch drag when hot---oil fix?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by ediehl, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    #21
  2. ediehl

    ediehl Been here awhile

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    Curiously, I took my 2nd ride post-oil-jet-cleaning yesterday, in temps probably 10 degrees higher (mid-90s) than the first ride, and I did not experience the creeping once the bike was up to temp. I'd made no other changes or adjustments. Hmmmm
    #22
  3. StmbtDave

    StmbtDave AKA Invisible Dave

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    Can anyone explain what the advantage is going from the stock 0.3mm to 0.5mm oil jet? I drilled mine out and now am experiencing creep with clutch disengaged, can't find neutral when stopped, and have very clunky shifts. I had the dealer order a stock 0.3mm so I can go back.

    Dave
    #23
  4. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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    Meoni's mechanic did it to his Dakar bike.

    I assume for severe use in extreme heat more oil means less heat which keeps the clutch from smoking itself. Someone smarter can help out here. Is it necessary for a dual sport that doesn't see the temps his did? Probably not but its the closest I'll get to Meoni status so I've got to do it right?
    #24
  5. crofrog

    crofrog Long timer

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    the meoni bike was running a bigger jet 1mm is considered the min for desert racing it's to keep the clutch plates properly lubricated and cooled.

    http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange Garage/Engine/clutch/Feliciani Mods/feliciani_clutch_mods.html
    #25
  6. bighoss550

    bighoss550 Grade "A" fancy

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    ediehl all good then right? just oil jet cleaning? you mentioned you couldn't find a wire to clean it (?)... what did you do?

    I have same symptoms, plus trouble engaging neutral. I guess ill flush the line again, and now the jet.

    An further advice while im into it?:confused
    #26
  7. TheMuffinMan

    TheMuffinMan Forest Ranger Magnet

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    The clutch dragged on my bike ever since I bought it from the previous owner 20,000 miles ago. It was about the same amount of creep after I put a .5 clutch oil jet in.

    I toasted a clutch on a long slow uphill with the stock size jet. Ever since I put the .5 in I have never had any issues with the clutch. I do have to shift into neutral when rolling, or rev it up to 2.5k with the clutch pulled in to shift into neutral if I'm stopped. The gearbox is a little clunky when it's cold but only from first to second. After it heats up I don't notice any difference.

    I run Rotella T6 5w-40 and my bike has 35,000 miles on it.


    Another thing I noticed is if I have the clutch pulled in at a stoplight and the bike's dragging I can blip the throttle and the drag goes away until the rev's return under 1800-1900 rpm. The drag doesn't bother me since my legs are too short to get both on the ground anyway so I just put my left foot down at stops and hold the other on the rear brake.
    #27
  8. crofrog

    crofrog Long timer

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    I know allot of you rotella guys don't want to hear it, but seriously switch to motorex and I'd put money on that going away. My bike shifts _so_much_better_ with motorex.
    #28
  9. MortimerSickle

    MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer

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    Remember to try this.
    #29
  10. TheMuffinMan

    TheMuffinMan Forest Ranger Magnet

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    +1

    I usually take the slave off and shake the fluid out of it and flush it once or twice. If you take the fluid out make sure you pre-fill the slave with fluid when you put it back on the bike, getting the bubbles out of it is really annoying otherwise!
    #30
  11. avocadofarmer

    avocadofarmer Fruit Coot

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    I've been running T6 for 6,000 miles and a year in temps from 30 to 100 (lots of 100 lately) and haven't had any clutch issues...

    YMMV!
    #31
  12. 666

    666 Agnostic and Orange

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    22k miles on rotella and no problems, no creeping , shifts excellent, very smooth. Never had problem finding neutral.
    #32
  13. bighoss550

    bighoss550 Grade "A" fancy

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    Finally got around to it. Basket nut could be spun by hand it was so loose. Torque'd that, and also swapped out inner most steel plate as it was scored. Simply used the next steel plate in the stack. Line bled several times too which needed it..

    All is good, I'm back on two wheels and happy. Thanks to this and the other "clutch" threads for advice on all of this.
    #33