Clutch pushrod

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Ladukebob, Jun 25, 2014.

  1. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Is the clutch pushrod something that needs replacing periodically? Trying to figure out why shifting into first from neutral is really rough, like chattering rough. I have replaced the clutch fluid and bled. I replaced the clutch slave with an Oberon last year when the stock slave started acting up so I feel like I can rule that out. While replacing the slave I did check the clutch jet. The clutch lever feels like it is nice and stiff with good resistance.I did run across a thread regarding rough shifting due to the pressure cap bolts backing out, I'll check those next. Bike has about 18,000 miles. Thoughts?

    Thanks
    #1
  2. Black Hills

    Black Hills Long timer

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    It should last forever, check fluid and bleed.
    #2
  3. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    This could have several reasons. Since you have good resistance at your lever, master cylinder failure could be left out. Another reason could be clutch plates get warped from heat and rub, even with lever pulled all the way in. You could try adjusting the red button for more lever movement, to increase the space that separates clutch discs. If that doesn't work and you end up at traffic lights in gear and the bike moves forward, you may need replacing clutch discs. Mine usually last 45k kms.
    Cheers.
    #3
  4. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    There is a small wave washer in the clutch that causes some wear on the inner most metal plate. This washer pushes the clutch stack out when you pull the lever. It will wear a groove into the closest metal plate.

    Pull out all the plates. Swap the inner most metal plate with another one.

    Also, the metal plates have sharp edges on one side and rounded on the other. When you reinstall all the metal plates, put the rounded edges to the outside of the clutch pack.

    This will improve way the clutch releases.
    #4
  5. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Great info guys, thanks. I have played with the lever adjusting screw and it hasn't helped. It's not to the point of wanting to pull while the lever is pulled in at stops but I feel it really close.

    I'm going to pull the cover off next and inspect the plates. Good tip on the innermost plate I'll look at that. It has to be something simple like that, the bike really doesn't get ridden very hard and low miles. I'm confident that I'm doing a good job replacing and bleeding the clutch fluid so I really think it has to be something else going on.
    #5
  6. rossphoto

    rossphoto GDTRFB

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  7. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Took a look at the clutch plates this afternoon and the metal plates were installed in a mixed of sharp edges inward and some outward. The inner most plate was a little shinier and I swapped it out for one of the others. Disks look like new really. But after I reassembled it I read this-

    "The round recesses(for demounting) must be in the same meshing"
    "The lining disk must be turned one meshing further"

    They didn't come out that way so I reinstalled them at random meshings. Now I'm thinking I should pull them back out and line them up.
    #7
  8. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    The old style push rod will wear and fall apart. It was a combo of steel and aluminum. It would generate aluminum filings and clog things up.

    The new all steel black one has no problems.
    #8
  9. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    I used Zuber's instructions concerning the swapping and made sure meshing was per manual and smoothed my shifting right out. Previous owner rode it a few weeks ago and remarked on how shifting felt smoother than when he owned it.
    #9
  10. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Ok, followed the instructions on the clutch plates and disks and reassembled, pushrod looks fine, pumped some more 2.5w. fork oil through the clutch slave and bled all air. And after all that, no change, it still grinds into first from neutral. What's next? Inspect the oil jet?

    I did notice that the clutch disks seemed to be kind of dry, is that normal?
    #10
  11. dgjackson40

    dgjackson40 Been here awhile

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    I am sure you have you have checked your oil level and consistency? Any chance the WP is going and there is coolant in the oil????
    #11
  12. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Oil looks good no problems there. I switched to Lucus 10/50 a while ago because I felt it shifted smoother. I really think the clutch disks tend to stick together when the lever is pulled in so I'm going to try running the bike for a while with the clutch lever engaged to see if the disks will free up some. When I pulled the plates out yesterday the first 5 where kind of "glued" together and I had to pry them apart.
    #12
  13. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Well I'm at a total loss as to why this shifts so rough into first from neutral and second for that matter. I've had the clutch apart a couple times now looking for anything that looks out of place. Cleaned the oil jet yesterday (I'm getting pretty fast at that now) it may have been plugged and the reason I say that is because there was a pool of oil sitting above the jet when I removed the engine case bolt.

    Clutch slave and pushrod seem to be working just fine.
    <iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/99413995" width="500" height="280" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/99413995">ktm 990 clutch travel</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user6073316">Dan Kleinsmith</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

    The one thing that bugs me about the clutch disks and the metal plates is how they really stick together. And even though there seems to be good clutch disengagement there is lot of resistance on the back wheel in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in while on the center stand. I can see a little, which I think would be normal, but I have to really hang on to the back wheel to keep it from spinning.

    I cringe every time I shift from neutral to first :eek1
    #13
  14. Bowber

    Bowber Been here awhile

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    The bellevillel washer at the back is there to do that, I think it helps keep the disks in line otherwise you get a very inconsistent clutch.
    You may have too much oil going through the plates, this causes a lot of drag.

    My clutch is usually graby when the bike is first started but does settle down, however neutral to first I just get on with it as if you pussy around it sounds like your trying to grind up the gearbox

    Mines a 2004 950 and still has the original push rod and basket.

    Steve
    #14
  15. Bowber

    Bowber Been here awhile

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    Also just noticed, the last plate needs to be turned one notch so it's in the shallow slot.
    No idea why but that's what the KTM manual says so it's gotta be right:nod

    Steve
    #15
  16. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
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  17. DELTATANGO

    DELTATANGO Motorcyclist and Dog Walk

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    I wouldn't ride it. You're going to fuck up the transmission.
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  18. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Thanks for posting that photo. I'll make that change today.
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  19. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

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  20. Ladukebob

    Ladukebob lost in hood river

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    Thanks,

    That's the doc. I'm using and it wasn't as in-depth to mention that last plate position in the shallow meshing. I moved to over to the next deep meshing. Not really sure why that matters but I will change it. And as far as I know the clutch plates are original from the factory (I'm the 2nd owner of the bike) And when I removed the disks the indents where not lined up. Anyone know why lining them up is important?
    #20