Clutch seal replacement

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by DanoPDX, Jun 23, 2014.

  1. DanoPDX

    DanoPDX monkey piss

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    Hi all,

    Is it possible (or advisable) to replace the clutch seal on an '08 990A without first removing the pushrod from the offside? The pushrod looks to be in fine shape, so I'd rather not mess with pulling it if unnecessary.

    The advice in other threads seems a bit split on whether pulling the pushrod is necessary. I don't see an engine casing lip that would prevent the seal from sliding straight in/out, but perhaps it's hidden by the seal. The metal portion of the seal certainly looks a bit narrow for the old "drill a hole, insert a screw, and pull" removal method....

    Thanks!

    DH
    #1
  2. sonoran

    sonoran Making ADV great again

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    Just replaced mine. Do yourself a favor and take out the pushrod.

    Getting the old seal out requires some leverage and getting the new seal in requires it to be mounted flush.

    It's just too difficult to do with the pushrod in place.
    #2
  3. DanoPDX

    DanoPDX monkey piss

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    Thanks Sonoran,

    So did you find there a lip that the seal must navigate, as described for the 950s, or will the seal go straight in/out on the 990s?

    I see now that it's probably only necessary to pull the outer clutch cover and pressure plate to get to the pushrod, so yeah, probably worth it.

    cheers,

    DH
    #3
  4. sonoran

    sonoran Making ADV great again

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    There is no lip, it goes straight in.

    I ended up using a spring puller tool to get the old seal out. The rubber will come out easy, the rest will take some effort, thus the need to remove the push rod.

    Use a socket and rubber mallet to seat the new seal flush with the engine case.

    Easy peasy.
    #4
  5. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    Replacing this seal on the 950 is a real bitch. Buy three and you may get one in without destroying it. Lucky they are cheap. I haven't done it on a 990 yet.

    The problem is there is a half-moon bore off to one side before you get to the bore that holds the seal. I have the KTM special tool and it is less than useless. The outside of the seal is metal and it will catch and crush in this half-moon bore. I finally got a socket that fit the rim of the seal, cocked it slightly when starting it, then straightened it out just as it entered the final bore. Took two seals to practice on and some RTV silicone to fill the holes.
    #5
  6. rider911

    rider911 Shortcut Navigator

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    I did mine the other day.
    I knew that pulling the shaft was the smart thing to do BUT I didnt have time on my side as I noticed the leak 2 days before a big ride. I took the risk at having a go at getting the seal out with the shaft in place. I do have a good amount of experience at this type of thing so probably dont attempt it if you are a novice as you could do a lot of damage. The seal actually came out quite easy, easier than I expected.
    Replacing the seal was also a challenge due to the location and the long shaft. The problem with using a socket to knock it in, is that the neoprene seal material sits proud of the steel outer case of the seal which means without the correct drift you will be hammering against the seal material rather than the steel and possibly compromise the integrity of the seal. I knocked up a drift in the lathe and the installation was a cinch.
    Regardless of whether you remove the shaft or not you really need a dedicated seal driver.
    Mine is a 990
    #6
  7. DanoPDX

    DanoPDX monkey piss

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    Thanks guys.

    Rider 911, I missed seeing your reply - curious how you pulled the old seal.

    I wound-up yanking mine out with a homemade puller, after trying and failing with screws driven into the narrow and flimsy seal body. I had already removed the pushrod to play it safe, and with it gone, the puller solution jumped out at me.

    The new seal went in easy-peasy. Used the business end of a long socket that's the same outer diameter, and whose inner bevel missed the seal rubber.

    cheers,

    DH
    #7
  8. rider911

    rider911 Shortcut Navigator

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    I have a special small screw driver which has all the sharp edges rounded off, the trick is to hit the screw driver at the right angle that causes the outer case of the seal to collapse inward and relieve the tension on the interference fit. It is not meant to be wedged down between seal and case because you will more than likely damage the case bore and you also need to be careful that you never let the screw driver touch the push rod and potentially damage the seal surface as you lever the seal out.
    Risky but doable :wink:
    #8