Come Near At Your Peril - Dual-Sporting "The Rock"

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Canuman, Aug 27, 2013.

  1. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    I've posted the final GPX tracks we used to plan the route here:

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22275357#post22275357

    They are accurate and usable to the best of my knowledge. We did not run all of the tracks, although most of the other routes were ridden in summer 2013 by BMWKLR, who generously contributed his GPX files. I'll attempt to post the tracks of our actual route later, but the files need considerable cleaning-up at this point.

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  2. jackpiner57

    jackpiner57 Moto-Racks.com

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    Looking forward to it Mr. A. If it's as good as your pics it will be a treat.
  3. Newfiebullet

    Newfiebullet Been here awhile

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    Nice. I see you went all around Red Indian, and went out on the Port aux Port Penn. Surprised you never made the loop on the P aux P, it's a beautiful ride.
  4. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Adam and I rode Port au Port...sort of. We were trying to get there before sunset and Adam needed gas. I was to follow him after departing the gas stop and I messed up. He waited for me and I for him, on opposite sides of a "city" block. The sun was getting low so we both took off in search of the sights.

    Adam got some striking pics out on Blue Beach at the end of Long Point.

    I missed the friggin' turn for it. I didn't have the tracks and it wasn't labeled as far as I could see. I got a so so sunset pic though. The sun goes down very quickly and takes the thermometer with it. I was freezing by the time I got to the campground at Piccadilly.

    Adam needs some peer pressure to post his pics here. They're great.

    Mine:

    [​IMG]
  5. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    Great RR. Thanks for taking us along
  6. Newfiebullet

    Newfiebullet Been here awhile

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    If you go out past Blue Beach there's a great spot for free camping, though I don't know if I'd want to be there on a really windy night. It's pretty exposed. But does offer some great views.

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  7. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    While picking through the actual tracks, I realized that we were in Muddy Hole at the mouth of the Fischell's River, which plays a significant part in Farley Mowat's The Boat Who Wouldn't Float. So far as I can see, Mowat was an earlier and better version of America's Dr. Hunter S. Thompson.

    Both were writers who didn't give a damn for facts, but largely told the truth as they saw it. Thompson shoved a whole pharmacopoeia down his throat searching for the essential truth, then put a gun to his mouth and was shot from a cannon when he died at 64.

    So far as my research indicates, Mowat is still alive or only lately dead. If so, he's a testament to strenuous living and rum.

    The Boat Who Wouldn't Float is hilarious, and very human. If the land he documented didn't exist, it should have. It would give us all hope if such a place once existed.

    Mowat's No Birds Sang is the finest individual account of the Second World War I've read. It is so intimate and direct, it's difficult to keep one's distance. I was reduced to tears. You may be stronger, but give it a try.

    Muddy Hole, 2013:

    [​IMG]
  8. Littlepeter

    Littlepeter Been here awhile

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  9. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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  10. just jeff

    just jeff Long timer

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  11. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    This is what differentiates Canada from the lower lands. I've lived very close to the Quebec border since I was 10.

    I was invited to a free jazz concert at the Haskell Opera House. The Haskell is situated on the line between Derby Line, VT and Stanstead, PQ. This was before 9/11 and all the "Homeland Security" BS.

    Canadian customs covered the north exits, and the American Douanes the southern. You could tell the Canadians, because they got into the jazz. The Americans stood at attention as if they had a stick up their butts.

    It was hot big-band jazz. I looked over a row left and down two seats, and said "Damn, that son of a bitch looks exactly like Donald Sutherland, just a little older!" It was Donald Sutherland, just a little older.

    I had the honor of trying to grab the same stalk of broccoli he was after in the market a few months later, on this side of the line. I guess I didn't make much of an impression. He didn't recognize me. Sic Transit Gloria.

    It's far closer up there than it is down here.

  12. Newfiebullet

    Newfiebullet Been here awhile

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    It's been a long long time since I read The Boat Who Wouldn't Float, a book I thoroughly enjoyed, and which is a great example of freedom and adventure, the perfect kind of book for people at advrider.com.


    I don't, however, remember Mowat ever coming up the west coast. The book tells the tale of Mowat's quest to buy a Nfld sailboat and take it to the Caribbean. He ends up never going south, but spends years exploring the south coast of Nfld, meets his wife, and writes several other books, including A Whale for the Killing.

    He eventually does manage to leave the island with the sailboat, making it to Cap Breton, and eventually sailing up the St. Lawrence, but I don't recall him ever going up the west coast.
  13. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    Muddy Hole is where Mowat bought his boat "Itchy Ass Sally" blind drunk at night in the fog, according to the novel. He may or may not have. It sounds like a place where one could buy such a schooner.

  14. Newfiebullet

    Newfiebullet Been here awhile

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    Well, he may have invented the name. But he actually bought the boat on the south shore, which in the south-eastern part of the Avalon peninsula.
    :beer
  15. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    Given the direct nature of many Newfoundland place names, I suspect there's more than one Muddy Hole. We've got more Mud Ponds in northern New England than you can shake a stick at as well.

  16. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    For those of you who've read this thread and think you may enjoy participating in 2014, we are again planning a trip in the last two weeks of August 2014. Please read the particulars carefully if you wish to sign up. The trip will be much on the lines of the 2013, although I would like to plan 10 days on the island rather than seven. It will be geared toward 650 cc and smaller machines, tenting and cooking out in the many free and beautiful areas in Newfoundland. This means tents, rain gear, and freeze-dried meals on most nights.

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920641
  17. Spiff Spiffster

    Spiff Spiffster Adventurer

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    Great read. Great writing. Great pics as well.
    Thanks for the perspective. Living in Newfoundland, we often look but don't see. I enjoyed your "view".
    And thanks for learning the history of this place. We sometimes have a bit of an inferiority complex here. You have done well to inform without bias.
    Hope to meet when you get here in 2014.
  18. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    Thanks. I've been reading more Canadian history recently, and it's been revealing. Canada has more divisive forces at work than the US, and yet has managed to avoid civil war and upheaval except for a few scuffles early on, and another few in the '70's.

    We managed to kill off 620,000 Americans in one shot in our nation-building exercise, and large numbers of our native peoples before and afterward.

    I'd agree that Canadians are certainly more introspective about their government than we are. There's certainly no cause for an inferiority complex.


  19. JOERTR

    JOERTR n00b

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    Great RR and pics.

    If you make it to the Avalon next time around, you'll really get to understand how the province got the nickname "The Rock" lol. Armor is a must riding offroad on this side of the island.

    Thanks for Sharing
  20. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    Thanks, Joe.

    We intend to make it to the eastern portion of the island in 2014. We were all wearing jackets with armor. Anton and I wore MX knee pads, and Adam had pants with internal pads. I agree it's a must. There are enough pointy rocks around that a simple spill could turn serious without them. I'd also say that good off-road boots are a necessity. Even close to the pavement, one is often pretty far away from rescue.