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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by racknack83, Jan 19, 2009.
I never ride, just work on my post count ...
whadya do about a shock?
Yo SUMORYDER some of us live in the north, so we are just getting our bikes out. I really haven't had any problems from the rear but I will one day change out the front forks. Some food for thought though is are parts from the new 250 compatible?
Well, I had a couple of sputters running wide open on Sunday. But, we'll be getting to the 12,000 mile valve adjustment shortly, which will mean a lot of other things getting checked too. The poor bike only gets out for trail riding, and I was seriously considering changing the front fork fluid at that time. The absence of front fork drain plugs complicates a fairly simple maintenance chore.
Just picked up a 2008 with 1800 miles for $2800. It has never been offroad, great condition. Got to drive it around the farm for 2 hours yesterday, had a blast! I'm 5'9" 170 pounds, this bike is perfect for my size.
First mods will be a skid plate, hand guards, and a small rack to mount my tail-bag to.
*so my pics didn't come in. I don't have time to jack with it-let me know what I'm doing wrong-but all the pics are on flickr here is the link:
So I picked up an 09 crf230l about a month ago. I have used ADVRider for so many things and have found alot of good advice here, so I wanted to post some of my pics adjusting the valves at the 600 mile service to help out others.
Because I like to save money and because I didn't want to wait for the specialty parts to ship, I improvised came up with a couple good ideas and used a good one from another guy.
I checked both valves. Spec is .004" +- .001" or .10mm +- .02mm
My intake was in spec, the .10mm or .004"(my feeler gauges are marked in metric and english-got it at napa for $4) had good drag. If you check your clearance with straight feeler gauges,https://www.flickr.com/photos/94863014@N06/8638465164/ you will have a much harder time getting it in, and it will give alot of drag. Once I bent mine and sandwiched it in between two Popsicle sticks using electrical tape, there was no drag at all, so use pre bent ones or bend your own. See pic below The wrench in this photo is a 10mm and 11mm with 45 degree bends(if you leave the tags on you can return the wrench after your done!!--just kidding--wanted to make sure it worked before I took the tag off). 10 mm is the size you will need for lock nut of adjusting nut. 45 degree bend gave me plenty of room.
Go to your local hardware store, I went to ACE westlake, and get square drive screws. I used 1 1/2" and 2" lengths. Somewhere online a guy said robinson #2 3mm square drive was the right size for the adjusting nut. I got ones that measured 3mm across and they were too big, so I went back and got the next size smaller square drive screws, and they fit perfect, no play whatsoever.
I used a needle nose vise grip to hold the screw while tightening the lock nut and it didn't take much force at all to keep the adjustment nut from moving while tightening the lock nut.
It is easier to hold the visegrip from the other side of the bike, as you can see two people makes it real easy, but it can be done with one. There is always a way.
This is how it looks with the screw and wrench on there when you are ready to tighten everything down.
So check clearance with bent feeler gauge. Try the .004", then try the .003", then the .005". Just get a feel for where your valves are, have fun and try the same feeler multiple times. Move them up and down when sliding them around and see if drag is reduced. Don't rush things-it's cold outside anyway-well it was for me. If it is out of spec, loosen lock nut with 10mm wrench with 90 to 45 degree bend. Put in your .10mm or .004" gauge and turn your adjusting nut down with your square drive screw by hand. Play with the feeler gauge, slide it side to side and back and forth while tightening and loosening, by hand, the screw until you feel "light drag." Ah, the term "light drag" what does it mean. On my yz450f, the drag felt much smoother, but it is shim under bucket, the drag on the 230 always felt notchy or kind of sticky/grabby. Even if clearance was increased, it still felt this way in comparison to the 450. Just slide in the next smaller feeler gauge and next larger and get a feel for it. Also, I tried some sizes and they wouldn't go, only to take it out, put it back in and then it fit, so get in there, feel around, adjust angle of feeler a tad, but don't force any thing, and don't apply pressure. Once you think you got it set perfect--this is the most critical part--hold the screw in place and hand tighten the lock nut, then take screw off and look at the adjustment nut to see how it is oriented, find out how you will put vise grip in position and orient the screw in the jaws so it is close. Now, carefully, put screw and visegrip on adjustment nut, but put 10mm wrench on lock nut first. Hold adjust nut in place and tighten to around 10lbs or 11 can't remember. I got close and then used a torque wrench. Just make sure the adjustment nut doesn't walk when using torque wrench, by tightening it enough before using wrench. Check specs again. Do it over if something moved.
I have more pics of the job at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/94863014@N06/
I used the honda factory service manual to do the job and get torque specs. I also used this guys write up:
I hope this helps, alot of info, not organized the greatest, but it should help. This is my first post, so go easy on me, if something doesn't come in right I will try to fix it. If anyone has suggestions to do things better, please let me know.
My intake was in spec at just over 600 mi on bike and the exhaust was loose, I don't know exactly what the spec was, but the .12mm feeler had no drag. I'm kicking myself for not finding out what the exact spec was. I will let you know how they move next adjustment.
After 2600 miles on the bike since last valve adjustment, now 3100, I checked the valves and they were out of spec. Surprising considering I went to full synthetic at 1700 miles, and adjusted the valves, the exhaust anyways, to .10mm. This valve check, both were out of spec, with the exhaust opened up to a snug .13mm and the intake a pretty loose .13mm. Considering how babied this thing is, and that I checked the valves 1000mi early, and have changed oil 125, 600, 1700, 3100, I'm kind of surprised, but not really--they were technically still in spec. Just wanted to get this info out there, and see how your valves are playing out to compare.
I now have 14,600 miles on lil'red!! Wow, what a bike. I took it on a 5000 mile trip from KS out to CA for the motogp race last year(2013). Cal Crutchlow complemented it's cornering capabilities--no shit(what a cool, down to earth guy)!!! The trip through CO, UT, and NV, OR, ID, WY, was one hell of a test for the bike and me!
Anywho, I have done adjustments about every 4000mi. I checked them at 8500, after my trip, and they were in spec. I just checked them again at 14,200 and they are still in spec. For summer riding, and my 5000mi trip i used full synthetic 20w-50 Mobil One, and changed the oil with 1750mi(really didn't want to wait this long), 1000, 1000, 1000, on the quart of oil, for a total of 4700 mi. In the fall and spring, I run full syn Mobil One 10-w40, and in winter, Eni Full Syn 0w-30. The bike runs so good, It amazes me every time I ride it. I love it!
for a write up on my gearing change. Went to a 14t front and a 38t rear, with great results.
I never seem to get the camera propped level.
One of the joys of solo riding, I guess.
ADVNCW, I like your set up, do you need a rear rack for that giantloop bag, if so, which one are you using? I was considering the Cyclerack, but the Giantloop bag looks like it might keep the weight forward and lower.
Last year's great basin bag was on sale. Here it is on my NX250:
I just bought a Giant Loop Coyote for my 230L. It does not need a rear rack, it sits where the passenger would sit. The rear sub-frame on these bikes are not rated for much weight, less then 15 pounds. I'm outfitting mine to do the "Shadow of the Rockies" trail next month. I was going to use a rear rack and saddle bags but the sub-frame looked fragile for the weight I was going to put on it, (gear and extra fuel). The GL Coyote bag keeps the weight forward off the rack area. When I get back, I'm going to re-enforce the the sub frame so that it is useful for the type of riding and equiptment I carry.
Took the 230L out for a ride yesterday. first one of the season. Over the winter i swapped the rubber for Dunlop 606's and went to a 102 link chain and 42T Rear. changed the fork fluid, added an extra centimeter.
What a difference! had it plowing through snow up to the skidplate. Another few weeks should see it packing a bear out of the back-country.
now to do something about that spongy rear shock....
DR Don, keep us posted about your ride. Curious minds.
be sure to post up if you find something that will fit, I'd be happy with a heavier spring so I could back off on the pre-load.
I am getting ready to change to 42t and 102 link. Which sprockets and chain did you go with? Are you happy with your choices.
I will. We leave on May 19f rom Phoenix and will ride secondary roads and dirt to Alpine, AZ. The next day to SilverCity, NM and to a starting point on the trail.
The trail is on the east side of the White Sands Missle Range, we still trying to determine the exact route from Silver City to the other side of the Range with out encountering heavy or Interstate traffic.
Which rack were you using when the frame broke? I am still debating which one to buy and have noticed that both the oem honda rack and Cyclerack bolt on differently than the xrs only or borrego.
The cycle rack version which also bolts to the frame.
I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?
I'm impressed with the Great Basin bag that I bought for touring/camping. It would be used with my street bike, the '89 enduro.
I'm using this exact set up with a Wolfman tank bag. I bought a RotoPak one gallon fuel pack and have it mounted to the rear Honda rack. Gasoline weighs about 7 puunds per gallon, so I estimated the whole set up on the rear rack is way less then 10 pounds. I figure if I need more space I'll get a set of Wolfman Tank Panniers, but I don't think ot will be necessary.
I have an 08 230L that i got used (242 miles, now 4000). it is now my turn to change my rear brake pas and the ones I ordered off the interwebs are too thick, though it is possible that im not depressing the brake caliper piston enough, its depresses easily with a screwdriver and feels like it bottoms out. tried to make it go that last bit with a c-clap to no avail. so my question is: when yall go to change pads, how far should the piston depress. should it be flush or does ~1/8-1/16 of an inch of the piston remain exposed.
these are the pads i got, should fit, but dont. i need mere hairs for clearance.
what am i forgetting or did i just end up getting brakes that dont work like a doof
thanks to whom ever responds for your input