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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by zzlejeune, Apr 16, 2010.
newbie rider here but can you explain this brake saver..
that little cable attaches to the frame or bolt almost immediately to the left and a little bit forward of the brake pedal (if you're sitting on the bike). It's supposed to keep a wayward get-off where you might catch a log, root, rock or something that might possibly bend your rear brake pedal outward.
This will be the first time I've used one. I've had plenty of get offs but never had the brake pedal get bent or pulled outward. But...since I do race a little desert now, I figure- better safe than sorry!
have two questions to you guys.
when i do a wheelie like 1 mile, and come back down, it comes a lightly blue smoke out of my exhaust.
i know that the blue smoke is oil but what i dont know why. when i do a 200km tour with a lot of long
wheelies i have to refill the engine oil like 3 milimeters on the dip stick. its not so much but i only like to know
why the bike use this oil on an wheelie. when i drive normal without wheelie but yes i do hard accelerating
the bike needs nothing. not one drop.
next question is.
will the engine take an damage from long wheelie driving with the oil level on maximum???
is there suficient oil on the cylinder wall on an 11 o'clock wheelie?
Gerald, Quit doing wheelies dood. Motor will be fine.
CRF450X - Here's mine all set up for DualSporting Baja.
And set up for a simple night on the town
love the black frame ,wheels.
Me, not "feeling" the black on black. It's not going to look so good when you start rubbing the frame with your boots and pants and your black rims start getting dinged up.
Like the big Acerbis? tank for longer trips though.
Pffft, everyones got an opinion. I didn't say anything about your blue seat.
She's a beaut, Clark..........
Lovin' the black.....
Yeah it is, I'm gonna build one just like it..
OK, first you take off all the aluminum bits and put them in a separate pile.
Lace you up some nice wheels. This bike was beat to hell before the complete rebuild, had 4 broken spokes on that wheel. I tossed that rim and rebuilt it with a new one. Highly recommend the cush hub if your going to ds the bike. Tranny is a known weak spot and the cush helps a lot.
Once all your bits are back from the anodizer, you have to figure out how to get the motor back into the frame... Its on par with solving a Rubik's cube. Note the swingarm in the background. Theres a coating on it that wouldn't come off in the acid tank. Had to be redone after a low pressure bead blast.
I wanted to add some oil and reinforce the rads against a fall down. Killed two birds with one stone. This guy Brett who runs ICW does this treatment for many Baja and Dakar guys, the best there is. Only regret is I'd have anodized them too id I had them when I sent the stuff off...next rebuild.
I had earlier added a spare oil tank for long trips. I just didn't feel comfortable going 2000 miles on 3/4 quart. Banjo bolt replaced the oil drain and a complicated set of vacuum tubes from the crankcase created a pulse which mixed the oil through the tube. worked great.
PC knows these forks well though I find them a little stiff. They built them to race spec and they feel great once over 70... :eek1
R header and all of the wrench mods, lumpy '02 cam, chopped airbox, tossed the overflow tank, added the skid, re ran all the tubes, etc..
Nobody likes my seat mod but me. I welded a couple studs to one side of these flanges and tacked on some Dzus nuts on the other. Seat comes right off in a flash for easy battery access.
nice, I have been in contact with Brett but have yet to come up with the cash for the ICW/jagg treatment..
On a radiator note and I know they help me out but the Asi radiators sold on ebay are very close to a fluidine (larger and beefy with billet neck) and if you are on a budget like me.. they are a good choice and affordable..
As far as functionality goes, I'm a believer that its really hard to beat stock rads. Their only real weakness are the corrosion welded bands on top and bottom and the relatively small amount of coolant they hold. Brett can weld in braces, enlarge the left reservoir, and seam weld the things pretty reasonably. I might would skip the oil cooler unless the bike gets thrashed or ran for extended miles w/o an oil change. Might could get him to add the mount too so you could add it later. For the $ though, those ASIs look good though I'd still want the braces welded in. Makes them strong as nails and the use of separate rad guards unnecessary. FWIW, whatever Honda did with this motor to get it to run cool is working. I can't ever make it hot even trying. I also had the 250X thermostatically controlled fan on the right rad and pitched it with the overflow tank, just no need for them.
at Vegas to Reno in august I had 5 falls (4 from flat front) on the right with stockys and works connection braces and the rad bent up.. ASI are welded and thicker material.. the water pump is really strong though with circulation..
You did a fantastic job on that build it makes me drool..
I haven't seen one nicer than yours I rate it a 10.
I have a 2005 450x just sitting here collecting dust, now I know what I'm going to do with it.
Thanks for the details on the build.
Thanks man, I really appreciate it.
This ones pretty much set up for desert and D/S. I'm hunting another 450x to turn into a woods bike, can't wait to get going on another.
And you called ME a gear head...
Yeah, you took a brand new bike and stripped it from limb to limb and started modding it, that's a true gear head...
I rebuilt this too.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/27767567@N06/2929689517/" title="DSCN0332 by annushkac, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3022/2929689517_f7cfa029f1.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="DSCN0332" /></a>