Custom snub nose F800GS

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by runnin4melife, Sep 29, 2012.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I don't think I have ever witnessed someone graduating so fast as you have....... It is good to see..... Indeed.:freaky:freaky:clap:clap..
  2. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Well I have worked w/glass in the past so it isn't too much of a stretch. Same concepts just different materials. I need to work on my waste though. I used more CF than I needed to for this because I didn't measure appropriately. That is alright as I need to make spacers for the bolts. I probably over did this piece. I used 3 sheets of CF 6 oz, 1 sheet Kevlar, 2 sheets CF, 1 sheet Kevlar and then 3 more sheets of CF. So 10 sheets total w/HTE. I wanted to make sure it was super strong so it can support a rotopax or what ever I put on it.

    I have to get everything done by Jan as I am leaving MD for 9 months as I travel the US for my med school rotations and I plan on taking the bike with me. Will be the best time I have in the near future to ride all over the place while having a hub I can return to.
  3. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv

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  4. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    So I had a few issues with the resin curing, it got pretty cold here last night and I didn't get it up to the temperature that it needed to be at. I was really concerned about botching the whole job because even at 24hrs the top layer was very tacky! I did two big no-nos while doing this, I didn't have the temperature high enough for curing and I was beginning to run out of resin while doing the layup and I eye balled a quick mix to finish the job. I was worried that one or both of these screwed the mix. So after talking to Erling for a bit I did two things. Because I was concerned about the last layer needing more hardener I brushed a thin layer (ill advised but I needed to give it a shot) and then I popped it into the oven at 275 F for an hour. Poof! This was an instant fix! It cured hard as a rock and I was done. This was a last ditch effort to save it and I do not plan on using the oven anytime soon. I opened all the doors and turned on the vent fan and after being an eskimo for a 2 hours it was all good (1 to cook 1 to clear out the fumes)

    <a href="http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/Herman_Melville/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1434.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/Herman_Melville/IMAG1434.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    I will drill everything out etc once I build the CF spacers for the bolts.:freaky
  5. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I think you mentioned in your email that you already have added another layer to auto level. The curing agent will get hard enough under high heat.....but it has no strength.... Did you try to scrape it before adding the new layer..... It usually behaves like hte in a pot....without post heat cure.... It crystallizes under stress...... Most likely you just did not have it post heat cure enough...... Not meaning to stir anything, but as others sees this.... Brushing a thin layer of curing agent on it will do nothing to the overall cure.... Once you cooked the whole piece, you got it going.... regardless of the added layer of curing agent......:clap
  6. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    I pulled the template and cut/sanded everything down before I added the self leveling layer of resin. It is curing right now.
  7. njoytheride

    njoytheride NJOYN' THE JOURNEY

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    what a interesting write up. This type of thing is what makes America great. Good job !
    Btw. your Dad may be a little uh.....picky but, he raised a smart son.
    If you get around Arkansas give me a shout. We have some fantastic riding here. Njoy
  8. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Won't be in Arkansas for a while I was supposed to be at Ft. Campbell this summer but will instead be in Ohio at Wright Patterson AFB. I get to do some riding in TX, GA, IL/MO, and NC throughout the next year so I am pretty excited. MD doesn't have a whole lot to offer because there really isn't any OHV/public trails to ride on and if they do have any it is almost exclusively for ATVs.

    I am wondering how I nuke this entire thread as I want to assemble a start to finish thread including the vendors, parts, cost, etc... Because people have PM'd me about that stuff.
  9. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Rather than nuking it... Which I think only the mods can do.... Just go back to your first post...... Edit it with the addition of all the material vendors..... That is what I do.... Then add a post in the end, stating that post one has been updated with all the vendor links. Lots of good stuff in here, that you should not nuke. As far as the travel..... You say TX.... which is most likely hundreds of mile from me... (far west Texas) but should your route take you to FT. Bliss ( El Paso)..... let me know.......:freaky
  10. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    I had bliss as an option but refrained as I am driving to all of my rotation sites and that is a bit out of the way for me considering I will be at Scott AFB, IL and subsequently have to be at Ft. Bragg, NC. So Ohio is more conducive to that path then going all the way down to El Paso. There is a high likely hood that I will be doing my residency at either San Antonio or up in Killeen (Ft. Hood). Which if that is the case I will definitely be heading to west Texas to do some riding (2 years away though).
  11. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I was gonna guess FT.Hood..... I can wait a couple of years.... That'l give you more time to gather war stories....:freaky
  12. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    I have plenty of those, I was enlisted in the Infantry from 2001-2008, around 2006 I decided I would get out to pursue medicine but had to wait to get back from Iraq before that could happen. Hospital war stories can be funny though, like a nurse getting poo'd on hahaha.

    The rear luggage rack turned out beautifully! Even given my potential fallacies. I am searching for some nice round plastic that I can use to mold the spacers to bolt it down with right now.
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Ha ha.... Bravo......:clap
  14. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    I am looking for some M8 x 100 Stainless button head bolts but am having a difficult time finding them not in bulk. These will be for the luggage rack. I have some M8 course threaded rod and can just attach a bolt to the end but it doesn't look very nice. I have checked Home Depot and Ace Hardware but they don't have any this long. :cry
  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I buy all my hardware from www.boltdepot.com
  16. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    So here is the issue, I was contemplating just utilizing button head bolts to secure the luggage rack with nylon spacers. Since I cannot find any bolts long enough for the back portion I have two options. Option one is finding something (like shampoo bottles) to fill the void and stuff some CF and resin in there for a fixed spacer, I can then counter sink the top part and use a flat head hex screw. My big question is whether the addition of new resin/CF to an already cured product will be structurally sound enough? I am also assuming that I would need to make it large enough to accommodate the bolt as well as a metal sleeve? Let me know what you think...
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    If you use the HTE, and wet a long say 4 inch strip of CF..... then roll it around a wood dowel, matching the diameter you need..... Then roll the cloth up on the rod.....tight, as of to squeeze out all excess resin....... I would think for a either M6 or M8 bolt you need a t least 3 mm thick layup, and 5 to make sure... make it 7-8 so you have room to sand away afterwards. Then tape it up with electrical tape, to hold it in place...... Cure it at 200 deg for two hrs.... ( maximum temp the tape will hold) Then remove the tape and cook it on hr at 300 deg. Simply drill out the wood...... Cut the rod into what ever length you need... Then bond it to the plate. If you just use epoxy with no CF... you will crush it. Another gangsta tip gone.....:D:rofl:lol3:freaky
  18. Dorito

    Dorito Dreamer and Doer

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    Here's a thread I did last month on stainless steel hardware haunts

    Metic Stainless Steel Hardware
  19. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Yeah I spent about 2 hrs going through every web page looking for the bolt I desired. I couldn't really find it so I went with an alternative that will work out in the long run, such is life when you are making weird things. Other than the bolt fiasco the luggage rack is looking great. I am going to paint it gloss black and rubberize it for longevity and to increase friction on the surface.
  20. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Today I completed the other fork guard (had been sitting for a while waiting to be sanded) and finished up the luggage rack. I have some regular bolts up top right now as I am waiting for some bolts I ordered to come in I like the rack so far, it is super solid. I painted it flat black and still have to apply the rubber coating.

    <a href="http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/Herman_Melville/?action=view&amp;current=IMAG1467.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k571/Herman_Melville/IMAG1467.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

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