Cut in Ignition Wiring - Help !!

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by 1050rat, Aug 26, 2013.

  1. 1050rat

    1050rat Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    36
    Location:
    West Coast Scotland
    OK so my bike has been cutting out a lot in slow speed left hand turns. Initially I thought it was a fuel problem but lo and behold on closer inspection around the ignition barrel I found a tear in the protective sheath and an orange wire nearly cut in half eek!

    [​IMG]

    Any thoughts on if how or if this can be replaced? - it's a bugger to get at !!


    Cheers

    1050rat
    #1
  2. AdvRonski

    AdvRonski They call me......Ronski

    Joined:
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    Wishing I was back in Grand Junction, now in MN
    I would pull the right fuel tank to gain better access to the harness, solder a short piece of wire in to repair the wire, and pull the harness out from the frame a bit to lessen the tension on the harness that caused the problem.
    But, that's just me.
    #2
  3. dmn0507

    dmn0507 Been here awhile

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    Italy, NE, Not too far from Venice
    Pretty common problem, after fixing mine I've cut a slot in that "plastic triangle" that keeps the wire close to the frame so it can move a bit more freelyu without tight bends
    #3
  4. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get the red waterproof butt end connectors. Red is the correct size, 18-22 gauge, and you strip off the wire, put it in the connector, crush with pliers, and then with a hair dryer shrink the covers. Waterproof and you'll spend more time trying to get to the wires then the actual fix.

    I've used them on everything on my bike and have ridden in water up to the glovebox with no issues.
    #4
  5. 1050rat

    1050rat Adventurer

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    Thanks for the replies guys - good ideas all round :clap - I'm gravitating toward the crimped option as I don't have a soldering iron.

    In terms of workable access I'm thinking I'll need to remove both the front forks and the rhs tank to trim the wires and butt joint / heat shrink?

    I also imagine I'll need to cut some more of the outer protective sheath off and undo the plastic cover the sheath disappears into to give a bit of slack to work with (it's pretty tight fit at the moment - no wonder they ripped apart over time :eek1 !!)

    How would I best waterproof an exposed bunch of wires thereafter (as "closed" heat shrink tubing won't work)? I've use self amalgamating tape before but it ain't waterproof in my experience.

    Cheers

    1050rat
    #5
  6. kenhaw

    kenhaw 2006 Adventure S EU

    Joined:
    May 28, 2012
    Oddometer:
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    there is a also a product from plastidip, its like liquid rubber and can be used as electrical insulation, cant remember the name but this would solve the problem I think. You apply it with a small brush and can put on several layers to make it more resistant.

    Just found it, its called plastidip liquid tape.
    #6
  7. nomad guy

    nomad guy A legal alien

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    Stranded in Berkeley, CA
    When i'm clicking on the pic you posted i get a pic of Mila Kunis at the bottom, Is she helping you fix the bike:eek1? Bastard :lol3
    #7
  8. luv2race

    luv2race Confused

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    You don't have to remove the tank or forks. Remove the phillips head screws that hold the plastic triangle cover and remove. DON'T DROP THE SCREWS! I suggest a screwdriver with the magnet. Pull the harness out of the frame, there will be a few extra inches to the connector and disconnect. Turn your forks to gain access to the bottom of the keyed ignition (it's 2 pieces) and remove the 2 screws, disconnect and pull the short harness out. Lay it on a table, carefully slice the wire casing open and expose the broken wire(s). I had 2 or 3 broken wires. The fix is easy with the red crimp connectors and you can put heat shrink on to seal it better. Wrap it up nice and tight with electrical tape or the plastidip as mentioned and install, leaving a little extra play so it doesn't happen again. I eventually bought a harness from KTM and replaced it.

    It's a known issue..........................

    http://www.ktm950.info/how/ktm_950_issues.html
    #8
  9. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    That is where it got cut. You will need to make sure it stays clear from the locking blade.
    Cheers.
    #9
  10. Katoom119

    Katoom119 Mmmm....Orange Kool-aid

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    As long as the wires aren't cut there's not much need to waterproof the wires since the connectors themselves are waterproof (or at least extremely water resistant). If you're trying to keep it from cutting again, go to Home Depot back in the electrical department and you can find this thick plastic wire wrap. Same thing Pyndon did to his Dakar bike and same thing I did to my 990. If you can cut through this stuff you have a serious issue.
    #10
  11. 1050rat

    1050rat Adventurer

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    OK. So far so good - I didn't bother to disconnect the harness at the frame end for fear of not being able to get it back together again (never mind apart :huh). Bottom of ignition came away no problems and I've now got something to work with having snipped off the cable tie holding the harness to the frame

    [​IMG]

    I like the idea of wrapping it in wire to stop it tearing again - must look into that.

    PS. Checked with KTM today and it's £88 to replace this part alone :eek1 Power to the people and aw that :clap

    Cheers

    1050rat
    #11
  12. Imachimper

    Imachimper Newer than Noob

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    Location:
    Camano Island, Washington
    To replace the outer sheath you can use THIS

    [​IMG]

    It is widely used in the commercial aircraft world to protect wires from abrasion. It is not sticky, but sticks to itself like nobody's business.
    #12