Cylinder/Piston Long Term Storage

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Beater, May 14, 2012.

  1. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    I have an extra set of R100 Nikasil Cylinders and pistons ... I will also have two bikes that will needs these ... eventually. I also have a post 85 final drive, a post 81 transmission, several clutches, and some heads that will also require similar long term storage. I live in Atlanta, and it can be 'humid' here in the summer. Things rust.

    So how would you store these parts so in 10 years they will be usable and fresh?

    :ear
    #1
  2. rozemab

    rozemab Adventurer

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    LPS #3 Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor—Oil based, this inhibitor produces a self-healing waxy film that dries slightly tacky and protects for 2 years indoors; 3-6 months outdoors. Maximum temperature is 175° F. Color is amber. Remove with mineral spirits or a cleaner/degreaser. Meets MIL-C-16173D, Grade 2.

    I use it on my snow equipment and it works. Stays on until you clean it off.

    http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/LPS3.html
    #2
  3. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Try cosmoline. I have guns that were stored in cosmoline since before WW2 and are like new. If the military uses it, it's probably because it's cheap and it works. It can make a hell of a mess and might take a rinse in kerosene or gasoline to remove it, but damn does it work well.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline
    #3
  4. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    Whatever you do, don't use WD-40. Your shit will rust, big time.
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  5. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    AW is right about cosmoline, and it's time proven. As in - proven to work for over 50+ years.

    But isn't it NLA because it's a carcinogen or something? That's only hearsay, but it's the only say that i've heard lately. :D

    short of that... wipe it all down in grease and wrap it in plastic.
    #5
  6. Beater

    Beater The Bavarian Butcher

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    Thanks for the replies ... I was going the grease route, but I hadn't heard of Cosmoline. I'll look into it. Thanks!!!
    #6
  7. ozmoses

    ozmoses Ride On

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  8. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    I uncrated a lot of WWII aircraft engine parts in the late eighties and early nineties. Cosmoline is definitely hit and miss protection wise. Some of the parts held up like new and some of it had corroded badly. Close to 50/50 in my experience. You can't say they didn't try. They don't pack stuff like that anymore.
    #8
  9. Biebs

    Biebs BMW Airhead

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    How about the Food saver vacuum sealer your wife has in the kitchen??? Seal them up with some grease or other coating.

    Vacuum seal!!

    :freaky
    #9
  10. LoJack

    LoJack Long timer

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    I use LPS #3 on the inside of my bike frames and am pretty happy with it. Another, that is sold for bicycle frames but I'm thinking would work, is JP Weigle Frame Saver. Sticky stuff and smells like blue cheese, though it doesn't taste like it.:puke1 The LPS you can get at a hardware store, the Frame Saver you can get online or at your local bike shop.

    I like that vacuum seal idea!
    #10
  11. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Cosmoline is nice in that you heat it up in a pot and dip whatever part you want to protect. It then hardens into a greasy waxy coating and it's pretty much guaranteed that you won't miss a spot. Just in looking around though it looks like cosmoline has gotten outlandishly expensive or so one would think from the prices at www.cosmolinedirect.com

    I couldn't really find anyone else selling it.
    #11
  12. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Wipe the Iron parts down with grease amd then bag em in plastic and check em yearly.

    I'm on the pacific coast and that works for me.
    #12
  13. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    What about the trans? Fill it with 80/90 and leave it???
    #13
  14. LoJack

    LoJack Long timer

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    Thinking about it now, whenever I get something old and from the Old Country, it's covered in heavy, waxy goo and often wrapped in paper. I'm guessing the goo may be Cosmoline, but the paper lets it breath, rather than trapping the potentially moist air inside with plastic. Kinda like using good old fashioned tar paper on your house instead of Tyvek. Don't want your timbers to mold and rot away, do you?

    Though, I suppose you could throw a cloth bag of rice in with it all.
    #14
  15. rufusswan

    rufusswan Been here awhile

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    How about melting some bee's wax and brushing it on the components? It melts easily (with a hair dryer) yet solidifies at room temp.
    #15