D.I.Y. Cam Chain Replacement

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Dieselboy, Sep 22, 2011.

  1. JRWooden

    JRWooden Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,631
    Location:
    The great state of confusion
    BMW has changed the recommmended oil weight for the twins to 15W-50.
    I find this helps my start-up rattle quite a bit ....

    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:RelyOnVML/> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> [FONT=&quot]See: [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]http://www.bmw-motorrad.dk/se/sv/services/media/PI_OlL_BMW_MC_2012_MD.pdf[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
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  2. Boggerboggette

    Boggerboggette Bogger

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    7
    Location:
    Voorheesville, NY
    Hey Diesel-Boy

    Did you replace the torque to yield main bearing cap bolts or reuse them ?
    There are 8 M8 X 77 for the two inside main bearing caps and 4 outer M8x 130 bolts on the outside that are bolted on after putting on the lower crankcase.
    :D Bogger
  3. Motorfiets

    Motorfiets Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,000
    Location:
    Southern California
    I did when I replaced my cam chain. you SHOULD replace them!
  4. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,835
    Location:
    Cowtown
    OMG, what a night! I have had all the timing chain swap parts here for awhile but have had no time to tackle it until tonight.

    My night started with me dropping not one but TWO nuts into the motor :shog I always stuff rags into the open areas on the motor...except tonight. Got complacent and lazy. What a nightmare.

    I pulled the side cover (clutch) and fished around with a magnet and managed to snag one of them. The other was way in the bottom of the timing chain passage. I couldn't get it out with the chain in place but if I pulled the chain out then I wouldn't be able to attach the new to the old one and work it through and around the crank sprocket. :(:

    I pulled the chain tensioner and guides hoping to make enough room to get a magnet or claw retrieval tool into get the nut but no luck. I notice a black chunk of something in the bottom the chain passage...a piece of the front chain guide :huh The night just keeps getting better.

    I broke the stock chain and pulled it out. Fished the nut out and got the guide chunk out too.

    [​IMG]


    I laid the new chain beside the old one and was surprised that there was only about 3/16" difference in length. Based on the noise coming out of my motor I expected the old chain to be very stretched.

    [​IMG]

    Thought long and hard how to get the new chain around the crank sprocket and ended up using a piece of MIG wire.

    [​IMG]

    Fished the MIG wire down the front side and got my finger through the passage hole by the clutch basket and directed it back up. It took over an hour to get it started and worked through. It would have been much fast if I wasn't working solo.

    New chain is through and rejoined. I'll finish it tomorrow night.

    Thanks to Chad Adams and DieselBoy for this thread. Even with the drama tonight, this is better than pulling the whole motor apart :freaky
  5. mischief

    mischief misadventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    802
    Location:
    Duke City NM
    The adventure begins when the plan turns to shit :freaky
    Glad you got it sorted out :clap
    Christi

  6. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,413
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    Been too long and I'm sure this post is irrelevant, but I hate being rude by not answering a question.....hold your breath:




    ..... I can't remember :freaky.


    Sorry, but Motorfiets is probably correct with his timely response...good idea to replace them.





    Good to see it worked out. Nasty stuff losing nuts....

    Better than dropping the motor and potentially stripping the mounting bolts while balancing that lump of metal on a jack. :deal

    All in all, I think the linked cam chain is a more exceptionally brilliant solution than my OEM replacement. You are still several days ahead of my schedule. :lol3:lol3:lol3 Even with your lost nuts.
  7. wizze

    wizze Wizze = Wise

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,286
    Location:
    Jet City WA
    I can't thank you guinea pigs....er uh mean guys enough. Fantastic work! My rattle trap has been bugging me for awhile. After a friend picked up a F800 that's sounds like a sewing machine. I can't stands no more! After seeing the pic of the cam chain slack, it could have been taken of my bike when I did the valves last month. I know that wasn't right. I'm scrounging the parts together now and once I con a friend or too with a little more knowledge and balls than me, it's on!

    So....nobody that has done the fix detonated yet? Still running strong purring like a kitten?
  8. chadams

    chadams Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    214
    Location:
    Blue Mountains
    I just past 124,000km and the bike is running better than new.
    Next job coming up for me is spark plugs and stator rewind to be safe. I got about 60,000 km out of the stock stator.
  9. wizze

    wizze Wizze = Wise

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,286
    Location:
    Jet City WA
    UPDATE: I figured I would replace the tensioner on the off chance it would help. IT DID! HOLY SHIT! I love happy endings...giggity...and this time it was me. :clap
  10. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,835
    Location:
    Cowtown
    Good to hear your's worked out. After a new chain, tensioner and guides mine still sounds like a sewing machine :huh
  11. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,835
    Location:
    Cowtown
    I figured something wasn't right with the chain swap as my motor wasn't any quieter and in fact had a new noise. When I ordered parts, I got 2 tensioners so I'd have a spare. I swapped the second new one in the other day and things got a whole lot quieter.

    There had been a low dull knocking noise (new) after the swap. After much listening with the bike idling we ruled out bottom and top end. The bulk of the noise was on the left side. I think it was the chain bouncing off the guides and resonating. Anyway, the new spare tensioner did the trick :nod
  12. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,255
    Location:
    Grand Valley, Colorado
    That is just crazy..... But as we had a failed $25K Pressurization controller on our aircraft.... the brand new replacement, did not work either.... third one was good though...... So no matter of what the part goes in...... It can be defective.
  13. bumbee800

    bumbee800 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vancouver Canada
    For those that have done the job, how are you riveting the master link? I have got the new master link and it is a solid pin design. I did not think you could mushroom a solid pin with out great force. I also got the pit posse cam chain breaker recommended for the job, but it does not seem to have any riveting functionality. Here is the tool I purchased

    http://pitposse.com/poentichbrri.html

    If any one has some more details around how the link was riveted, I would appreciate it.

    thanks
  14. MikeMike

    MikeMike Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,150
    The product description of that chain breaker you posted the link to clearly states that one end is for pin removal and the other is for riveting. Usually, the master link will have a "soft" pin that is specific to it and will mushroom.
    You might want to get someone to help you with the job.
  15. bumbee800

    bumbee800 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vancouver Canada
    The description on the web site and the instructions on the back of the product do not jive. The instructions on the back said one end is for breaking the chain ie forcing the pin out and the other is for forcing the pin back in. It gives no instructions for actually riveting the end. I am quite familiar with riveting my drive chain and have done that process before so I am quite confident in doing the job my self, I just wanted clarification that this master link is indeed the riveting type instead of what is known as the press fit link. If some one who has done the job themselves, if they did the riveting process could you give some more detail about how you did it and what tools if any you used to do it.

    thanks
  16. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,835
    Location:
    Cowtown
    It is a solid pin with no soft end. I was concerned with it too. It doesn't require much distortion to keep the side plate in place. It took much less force than I expected to mushroom the head.
  17. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,604
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Use a small punch and hammer to mushroom the pin ends while a buddy holds a metal block on the back side of the pin. Only need 0.005" mushroom to get the pin to stay in position
  18. bumbee800

    bumbee800 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Vancouver Canada
    Are we sure this style of master link is not what they call a press fit design where there is enough interference between the pin and the outer plate that when pressed together it is designed to not require riveting. From doing some reading my understanding is that the master links that require riveting are distinguishable by the end of the pins having a slightly different (darker) color metal, where they have transitioned to a softer metal. Also they have dimples in the end where you are suppose to apply force to peen the heads over. These pins have no such distinguishing marks. Please read this thread where they discuss the same issues

    http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=94956.msg1056941#msg1056941

    They also mention that if it is a press fit design that trying to peen it could actually be worse than leaving at a press fit.
  19. Olvi

    Olvi Ice Butt

    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    100
    Since z1enterprises is a US company, I need to find some place to purchase one in Europe. So master link is supplied by K&L, right? I can find a lot of master links but they are for some Suzuki and Kawasaki models and they look totally different than chain in F8GS

    Somewhere around I found one by D.I.D but I'm not able to find any images of that :(:. I think I will order it and see what it appears to be.
  20. der-Seppel

    der-Seppel Dominik

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    384
    Location:
    Germany
    Hey guys i am just replacing my Cam Chain right now with the master link method.
    Is there an easy way to feed the chain through the engine without moving the crank?

    I have split both chains and connected them so far.

    Problem is I am on a trip ... don't have access to most tool