D.I.Y. Cam Chain Replacement

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Dieselboy, Sep 22, 2011.

  1. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    So starting low and front. The crash bars are first. I have Vision X and Stebel mounted there so zip ties and cables get moved.

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    The system includes a bunch of zip lock bags. Labeled because I'm a bit paranoid about losing track of all these parts.

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    Draining the oil. Comes later in the actual book, but I figure this was a convenient time.

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    Panels next.

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    Digging towards the battery next.

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    Disconnect the change-over valve plug. Habor Freight provides great stuff, like the zip tie labels for all the various cables.


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    Battery out.


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    Temp sensor plug.


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    Screws for the intake air silencer.


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    Hoses from the idle actuator.

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    Book says to disconnect the hose from cylinder-head cover. I left it and disconnected from the bottom of the air box.

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    Can. Springs first.

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    Rear Tire.


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    Note to self. Master link crimp faces out. (To get the chain back on in the same direction.)


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    Chain guard.

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    Rear caliper zip tied to frame.

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    Lost the pic of the rear brake line cover. Basically, left side of swing arm. One bolt and plastic cover.


    Pinion cover.


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    Chain slide rail.


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    Bottom shock mount.


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    Propped the swing arm just to be sure. Wasn't necessary. Cat caught it.


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    Swing Arm axel nut. 21mm. Had to run back to Harbor Freight. Only 21mm I've seen on this bike.


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    Actually removing the chain slide rail now.

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    Swing arm out.

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    Chain off. (...and to think this is what would be necessary to change the OEM chain....insane....I'll stick with the master link.)


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    #61
  2. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    Regulator comes off next. Just let it hang, per the book.


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    Cut zip ties and unplug a bunch of connectors.


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    End result is the stator plug is free of the frame.


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    More.


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    Remove the cover from the starter wire and unscrew two nuts.


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    Cut zip ties.


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    Pinch off the expansion tank hose.


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    Remove screw and drain radiator fluid.


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    Remove this screw and drain from engine. Has a copper washer so pay attention.


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    Unscrew protective screen and let it hang. No pic.


    Unplug fan plug. This pic is the connector that comes in from the front. Don't cut the zip tie and pull this one like I did. You should unplug the female connector from the back side when you can reach it.


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    Disconnect radiator hoses and remove screws from radiator and expansion tank. These come off together. Forgot to release the clamp ealier. So we just opened the cap and dumped the coolant from the tank into the bucket.

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    Remove radiator.


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    Trace down the O2 sensor and unplug. Cut zip ties.


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    Remove Cat bolt.


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    Remove exhaust header flange nuts. These are 12 point nuts. Had to run to Pep Boys to get the 10mm socket necessary. One of the studs came out with the bolt. It’s currently soaking.


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    Pull pipes out.


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    #62
  3. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    So that's the end of day 1. Five hours of wrenching got me as far as the exhaust pipes off the bike. I had to make two tool runs: 21mm socket for the swing arm axel nut, and 10mm 12-point socket for the exhaust flange nuts.


    Not as far along as I'd like but no catastrophic issues (that I'm aware of). :deal


    I realized also, that I forgot to order gaskets for the exhaust header pipes. I'm hoping it's common enough for the dealer to have them in stock. [EDIT: it's not. :puke1] Speaking of which, the day actually started at the dealer picking up a partial order. Conspicuously absent are my new cam sprockets. [EDIT: sprockets look like new so not an issue.] I should see them in four or five days. I'll decide what to do once I see the inside of this engine.
    #63
  4. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    So popped the new cam chain out to see what there is to see:


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    6.83 width


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    12.45 length


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    2.71 pin size

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    9.05 edge to edge


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    So someone go find us a master link. :evil
    #64
  5. Camel ADV

    Camel ADV Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,845
    Location:
    Cowtown
    For a minute I thought you were expecting a crowd and setting up bleachers!
    #65
  6. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    :lol3



    Actually, German fest tables to go with the German bike repair.
    #66
  7. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,461
    Location:
    On a RTW ride - currently touring the U.S.
    Thanks a bunch for documenting all this Nick, I appreciate being able to tag along and see how it's done! :clap:freaky
    #67
  8. MoToad

    MoToad Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    925
    Location:
    Nelson BC, fer now.
    :y0!:lurk
    #68
  9. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla

    The adventure continues.......:norton
    #69
  10. L.B.S.

    L.B.S. Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,882
    This is awesome of you to be taking the time and effort to detail the work done, take pictures etc. Thank you very much. :D

    Love the bleacher set up! :lol3

    Best of luck with the on going effort! :clap
    #70
  11. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla


    :thumb
    #71
  12. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    Started out the day on the drill press and grinder.


    Creating a crank locking pin.

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    Creating a shim holder.

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    First parts of the day: radiator brackets.


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    Remove the heat shield.


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    Next to go is the side stand kill switch. Trace the wire up to the middle of the bike.


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    Drop the left foot rest mounting plate.


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    Here she is on the bench.


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    Ooops. Did I do that?


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    No more side stand kill switch. No wire to fight during reassembly. Plug is back in place. Wire the red and white together and seal it all with shrink tubing.


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    Pull coils next. Mine came out by hand. No tool required. Book says not to unplug the coils.


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    Unplug oil pressure switch and coolant-temp sensor (vicinity cam chain tensioner).


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    Unscrew ground wire.


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    Unhook throttle cable.


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    Disconnect injection valve plugs.


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    Pressure sensor.


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    Throttle valve potentiometer plug. (right side)


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    Clip a bunch of zip ties. Three on this bar. You are not removing the assembly just moving it a little.


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    Release the clamps on the air intake ducts and plug the ducts. I used shop towels. The clamps have a special tool associate. I used needle nosed pliers.


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    Disengage clutch cable.


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    Separate pressure modulator from the retaining plate. This was a bit confusing at first. But simple in the end. There is a plate with a hole in the middle affixed to the engine. This module is grommeted to it. Pop it up out of the plate. The module stays with the bike.


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    Release the brake lever pin.


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    Unscrew and remove brake lever. Watch the spring.


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    Release the brake lines. They stay but it gives some flex when the engine drops.


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    Tape up the engine forward edges and the frame rails. It would help if the engine were cleaner. The tape wasn’t sticking. Note the ratchet strap in the center of the pic. At this point I moved them from the handle bars where they were initially to this point which is what BMW shows in the book.



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    Remove left side frame bolts. (There are three but I only have two left because my engine guards used one and that came off as the first item of business on day 1).


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    Remove right side frame bolts. Note spacers on this side. At all three points.


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    I put a strap around the front of the engine not wanting it to pitch forward when released from the last bolt. Wasn’t an issue though.


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    Floor jack was in place all night. Now we use it to lower the engine. The unmounted tire was there to act as a bumper. Again not necessary.


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    Wiggle wiggle

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    The back of the engine is in conflict with the frame at this point. So a straight drop is not possible.


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    So the come along is used one click at a time to raise the frame and allows us to push it back away from the engine.


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    She’s free.


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    I estimate the weight at around 150lbs.


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    Now she looks ill.



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    Removing the ABS pressure-modulator bracket.


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    Here’s another look at the modulator. Note the rubber plug on the bottom. That’s what you have to pop up when releasing the brake lines earlier.


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    Next phase is clean up of the engine and then I open her up. Time to remove engine was 7 hours 45 minutes.


    According to BMW, apparently I now have 15 minutes theft to repair the cam chain and reinstall the engine. :lol3
    #72
  13. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    Engine is on the bench. Time to clean.

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    Side note: couldn't get the bash plate mounts off so propped the engine on a couple of 1x1 dowels.


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    Time to take the cam shaft sensor off.


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    Starter.


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    Looking good. Splines are smooth with no stepping.


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    Valve cover and gaskets come off next.


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    Book says to pull this gasket also but I don't have a new one so it stays.


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    Spark plug wrench.


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    Loosen the plugs. Not part of the book process but I figured easier for the next step.


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    Set cylinder 1 to TDC. At this point you're suppose to check the valve clearances but mine were done two weeks ago. I'm calling them good and moving on.


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    Lock crank.


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    Remove Cam Shaft Bearing Cap. Working diagonally opposite sequence, uniformly slacken all nuts. So corner to corner interior side to side. A little at a time until the tension is off.


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    Next the cam chain tensioner. (BTW it's a 22mm bolt....why....it's the only one that size. Couldn't BMW make do with a 21mm so we would have two bolts (swing arm). I don't want to be all crazy and think that a 17 mm to match the front axel or 24 mm to match the rear axel and oil drain plug would be reasonable.)


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    Using an appropriate tool (fuel line in my case), lift the intake cam shaft and work the chain off. Then lift the exhaust cam chain and work the chain off. The straws were not book but seem like a good idea. Care is needed to not bang the cams shafts.


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    Secure the cam chain.


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    Remove and store the shims. (Don't forget to block the oil ports with rags.)


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    Remove guide rail. The wear limit is .8mm. It's hard to measure but looks good. there's a little scoring at the top.


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    Counter sprocket comes off next. Fortunately my touratech 17T has holes that we used to assist in breaking the bolt loose. Because crank locking pin is in place you do not want to put pressure on the transmission to take this bolt out. Transmission is in neutral here.


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    At this point it's time to flip the engine to remove the oil pan. But the top has delicate studs exposed. So Plan A was to lay the engine on the side but my friend has an engine frame so I'm taking a pause. Using card board we created a jig to see if his engine frame will work.


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    In the mean time. The water pump gear is not spinning right. This is odd so a check shows that the gear is spinning on the shaft but not turning the pump. On the list to check later.


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    #73
  14. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,335
    Location:
    San Diego
    You are a brave, brave man.




    Or insane. :hide




    :thumb
    #74
  15. zaner32

    zaner32 In over my head

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    683
    Location:
    Moncton
    I'm with ya on this one...:freaky
    #75
  16. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla

    Fine line and all that. It's debated amongst those in the "know" frequently. Unless you are speaking to my daughter, she's firmly in the "insane" camp. :evil
    #76
  17. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    The engine stand works. I mounted it first thing this morning. My new estimate of engine weight is 80-125 lbs. I hefted it off of the bench and on to the stand by myself.


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    First things first. Water pump. Appears to be fine. The impeller and the drive gear spin on a shaft. The shaft does not move. So I think the tactile feedback of touch the end of the shaft gave a false sense that there was a problem.


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    Oil pan. Flip goes the engine and let me say that doing this with a stand is a really, really good idea.....some extra oil (I think there was 400ml left throughout).


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    There are three bolts that hold down the gasket.


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    Front is to the left. Under the gasket is the “cover”. The three red zip ties point out the three bolt that held in the gasket. This is good to know because there are several more bolts that hold the cover and they look just like the one that were on the gasket. So to point out the obvious, don’t put bolts in the wrong holes on reassembly.


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    Cover off. Hello Mr Counter Balancer.


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    Note the spring location and orientation. It was not a flight risk. Low tension.


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    Flip. Right cover up.


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    Stator.


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    Flip. Left side.


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    Remove the crank locking pin.


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    Dip stick out. This is probably understood but it wasn’t specifically mentioned in the book.


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    Shift lever. Likewise not mentioned earlier. I may have missed it but I don’t think so. Before I moved it, I made a mark of it’s alignment with a red sharpie.



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    Left cover up. Selector shaft marked by red zip tie comes out now.



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    The book says this washer can stay on the cover. It decided other wise. Tagged and bagged.


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    #77
  18. Dieselboy

    Dieselboy Journey not Destination

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,449
    Location:
    Port of the Gasparilla
    Flip. Bolts for the bottom crank cover come off now. 14 bolts. Two are to the front where I have the red zip tie pointing. The others are on the left side of the picture towards the rear of the engine.


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    These two are bigger. Than the others.



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    I marked them with red zip ties. Just forward is another bolt marked with yellow. It is shorter that the majority.


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    The two to the front of the engine match the other yellow odd ball.

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    Remove retaining pin (marked with red zip tie).


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    Slide out bearing stud. Book says use a slide hammer. I just pushed it out with that zip tie.


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    Another shot of the bearing stud. Hole points out to the left as the engine is currently oriented. Threads are what the slide hammer was supposed to attach to.


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    Pivot balancing swing arm up.


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    Remove 9 screws. ( I only marked 8 for some reason).



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    Green ones are different lengths.


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    Work the bottom half of the crank case off. Making sure that the bearing shells do not fall out of the crankcase half. Marked with red zip ties in the second pic.


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    Carefully lower the balancing conrod to ensure the sealing face is not damaged. This was an oops on my part. It did ding the edge a little. Not enough to be an issue.


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    This is my kind of art work. Isn't it beautiful....


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    Lift gearbox output shaft up slightly = 1 or 2 mm. Remove shaft sealing ring marked by the red ziptie.


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    Mark main bearing caps prior to removal to ensure that they can be reinstalled in their original positions. I chose L & R but should have used 2 & 1 respectively because I later found the case was actually stamped that way.


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    I went a step farther and marked the bolt locations as well. Not necessary but...


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    Caps were stubborn. It took considerably wiggling to get the oil to let go. The #2 cap required a firmer grip.


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    Using a suitable provisional support, or in my case a paint roller handle, move the crank shaft up and hold in place.


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    Note the way I am holding the counter balancer and the wooden handle. This is how you should control this mechanism. The pistons will move and the connector rods with rotate on you. This handhold will maintain control of the mass and allow you to gentle lower the crank. Also note that I have padding on the case edge now. Too late for me but you can avoid a ding hopefully.


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    Remove old timing chain (cut the zip tie first).


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    Replace tensioner rail. Remove screw first. New rail in with 10nm and locktite 243.


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    Old rail right. Note the scoring at the tips. Otherwise looks good.


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    And now for the main event: replace the cam chain.


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    Blurry picture of my ding. Bottom center edge of case.


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    Before lowering crank, lube bearing seats.


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    My caps had "48"written on the side.

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    Reseat caps.


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    Initial torque is 15nm. Tightening pattern is specified as 2, 3, 4, 1, 6, 7, 8, 5. (My wrench is in the 1 position in the picture). Count left to right starting at the top.

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    Interlude. Need to final torque to 45 degrees +/- 5. I opted to not pay for the $54 Napa version of an angle torque gauge. I made my own.


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    Time to reassemble. But first:


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    Must to be cleaning.


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    That one case took 45 minutes. I needed a break so I decided to update the thread. The cleaning of the mating surfaces is probably one of the most important steps to this project so I'm taking my time.


    Back to rowing....
    #78
  19. zaner32

    zaner32 In over my head

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    683
    Location:
    Moncton
    Big job! In my first post in this thread, I though you could route the chain by the end of the shaft and onto the gear. The way that shaft sits in it's journal, there's no way you can do this job without taking basically all the covers off. Good stuff! Thanks for taking the time to write this up. :freaky
    #79
  20. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,741
    Location:
    Penticton, BC
    That's a lot of work. We definitely need a simpler master link type solution. Having said that, from what you've seen so far would it be possible to remove the side covers and sneak new guide rails in there?
    #80