DAKAR, and the ride to Colombia

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by YOGOI, Jun 7, 2011.

  1. Ranger Red

    Ranger Red Team Green

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    Location:
    Great Basin
    This was the Baja (to us).

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    This makes Baja sense, Thanks Yogoi, :clap:clap:clap weird world when place and peole blend into the mix....
    #61
  2. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    We decide on Bolivia. We go to the embassy for Bolivia to fill out the paper work turn in copies of photos and pay our money. Its 135 dollars each to be put into the Bolivian bank. The also want you to have 6 months on your pass port. Milena has 2 months left. Not wanting to wire 270 dollars into an account and then be denied at the boarder we asked if this would be a problem. The guy at the desk went to ask the big man up stairs. No Bolivia for us.
    It was a bum'er because we were a day or two from meeting up with Goat on his way south.
    ...but the Atacama should be neat to see, we head west into the mnt., and clouds.

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    The whole day was dirt road and as were were getting close to the boarder and town, we could see the storm that we were going to have to ride through to get there. We decide to pull off the road out of the wind and camp; again hope'n the storm doesn't make its way over to us in the night.

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    We were luck and skipped the storm. We road down the hill and pass the flat lake bed (where we could see that the storm was hit'n). It was supper muddy and there were two semi trucks buried up to there axles on the road. We ask the drivers if they needed any food or water. They were fine and help was on the way.

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    We make it to San Pedro for lunch.
    #62
  3. MotoUzi

    MotoUzi n00b

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    Those pictures are sooo amazing. I cant imagine having the guts to leave the states, let alone the faith travel you have been up too. Whole new respect for two awesome folks. You guys rock!:clap
    #63
  4. Cuchanu

    Cuchanu Adventurer

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    You're missing out! There is so much to do outside of the US and leaving your comfort zone allows you to have the kind of adventures you see here.
    #64
  5. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    If you wanna try it out, I know where a bike is you could ride. :evil
    #65
  6. crashmaster

    crashmaster ow, my balls!

    Joined:
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    Ah, the great altiplano routes of northern Argentina, I miss them already. :freaky Nice pics!
    #66
  7. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    Ya, me too.
    #67
  8. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    We eat lunch and then do about 10 laps around town (the adobe maze) until we finally find were they had been hide'n the gas station. We're drenched in sweat and all we want to do is hit the road and find somewhere to camp out side of town. We find a place out of the wind.
    The next day We hit the coast (an amazing drop from 13,000 feet to sea level) and camp out side of Inquique.

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    The city of Inquique in bizarre and beautiful. Then we make the long hop across the desert to Arica.
    We ride down amazing slopes into green valleys and then back up to the planes of the sandy desert. The pics just dont do the size of these valleys justice.
    We stay the night in Arica, and then its another beach camp. Welcome To PERU!!!! :clap

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    #68
  9. 1Man2Wheels

    1Man2Wheels Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Englewood, CO
    Excellent report and pics, thanks for posting these up.

    How would you rate the Strom for the terrain you encountered? I will be heading south on a DL650 in a couple of months, and am leaning towards tarmac when possible but your off road experiences have me intrigued.
    #69
  10. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    The mapped dirt roads are just fine for a strom. Some of the washboard with rock combo was a bit rough, but we were two up, and I'm use to a worked 950 suspension.
    There is alot of pavement between Colombia and Argentina, and I was leaning toward dirt when ever possible. Or, as much as the weather would allow.
    #70
  11. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    From the beach (near Majia) we head up through Arequipa for lunch and find a place in Puno for the night. We hang out in Puno for two nights for a little rest. We tour out to the floating islands and catch some festivals.

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    The day after the festival we head out in the morning. The streets are empty. This is very strange because it seemed that the thousands of taxi's never stopped and never stopped honking.
    As we head out of town we start to come across rocks and glass that had been tossed onto the road. Then we hit a group that had the road blocked.
    We stop. Two guys start walking toward us with broken bottles in there hands. Another guy goes and lifts the barbwire barricade so we can pass under.
    At this time we really dont have any idea whats going on. People are yelling at us as we go by, but they let us through the road blocks. It gose like this for about 30 miles. All the way through the town of Juliaca. It takes forever, and Milena has to get off and carry the boxes as I squeeze the bike past trucks that have been placed to block the road.
    I wish we took more photo's, but at the time I didnt want to press our luck and piss some one off, or draw more attention.

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    #71
  12. JamesOn2Wheels

    JamesOn2Wheels Banned

    Joined:
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    Location:
    dammit..back in the states
    If you go up thru central Peru to the far north, there is an out-of-the-way (wait, isn't everything out of the way in Peru?) trip that I loved.
    Head east out of Cajamarca towards Bambamarca over the mountains to Chachapoyas area...it's in Amazonas province but that is a misnomer as it is all high mountain and valley area.
    If you do at least visit Kuelap, it's the least visited mountain top fortress I think In Peru, the caretaker will let you camp there in the lot, or over the hill to his house where he will feed you for I think I paid $3.00 a day for food and camp. Ask him about 7th day adventists...
    The road north to Ecuador from there is pretty spectacular, I went through some amazing canyons and ran into a roadblock at a bridge just before Jaen, Indigenous vs military...they may still be in this conflict over oil and mining interest ruining their land-when i was there happened quite a few deaths between both sides.
    The road up from Jaen (don't stay there it's a shitty town) is great also... easy crossing from Peru to Ecuador, then a great mountain drive to Vilcabamba, Ecuador (where you can ogle the holy gringos in their natural environment), up to Cuenca which has good moto shops ...on North.
    Just an idea, have fun !!

    Zig :freaky
    #72
  13. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    We wanted to do this route, but the pounding cold rain, and our time line sent us to the coast.

    ...next time.:deal
    #73
  14. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    Next stop Cusco, then to Ollantaytambo and Machu Pichu.

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    #74
  15. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    It was a rainy ride leaving Macchu Pichu. The 26 is an amazing road, but we end up riding in fog that slows us down to 1st gear through most of it.
    We make it to Chalhuanca for the night.
    The next day we put some hours on the bike and make it to Huacachina.

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    I help with a little painting, OSHA approved.
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    #75
  16. KMC1

    KMC1 There is no spoon.

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    What an awesome RR man!
    You guys are toughin it out!

    Keep the pics coming!
    #76
  17. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    After a couple of nights in Huacachina we head to Lima. We get a new rear tire in Lima, and find a good hostel for the night. The way you have to battle traffic on the way into and out of Lima his horrific. Cars, trucks, and buses backed up for miles, and who ever wants to push the hardest gets to move 100 feet faster a minute.
    The traffic thins as we head into the mnt's. It turns into the high plains, foggy cold and rainy.
    We take a side trip to San Ramon. We drop from the high mnt plains down to the jungle. The vegetation changes drastically as it gets warmer and warmer. We find a camp that has a way for us to get out of the rain for the night. This is how I pictured Peru, hot and muggy in the jungle. Its a nice camp by the river.

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    We head back up out of the jungle and continue north to Huanuco for the night. In the morning we find a place to do a quick oil change, and then we head west on the small mnt road toward Huaraz.

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    Out on this lonely dirt road (just out side of (La Union) we pass a truck with about 4 police, and we get stopped.
    One guy gets out and comes over to us. He tells us that it is very dangerous for us to be riding in the rain on these slippery roads. but he is here to protect us.
    US: OK.
    Then he asks for out paper work.
    Not a problem.
    Then he asks for our insurance.
    After playing dumb for a while, we say we dont have it, and we should not need it.
    He says we do, and we say we are international travelers and we dont.
    We politely go back and forth on this for a while.
    Then he says our head light is out.
    US: No, its fine (as I turn the bike on).
    Then he asks to see our blinkers.
    Then or break light.
    HIM: OK, the bike is good, but you need insurance.
    US: OK where can we get insurance.
    HIM: you have to get it at the boarder.
    US: can we get it in town
    HIM: no.
    US: well, what do we do
    HIM: you pay me
    US: how much
    HIM: 100 soles ($30)
    US: we dont have that much
    HIM: OK, 50 soles
    We give him the 50 soles and then he says that we are brothers.
    US: OK?
    Then he askes us if we have enough gas to get to were we are headed.
    US: no.
    He has us turn on the bike and looks at our gas gauge.
    HIM: Aw, you'll be fine.
    US: no, we have a long way to go.
    He pulls the money out that we gave him and gives us 10 soles back for gas.
    He then asks if we had a video camera.
    US: NO, but we do have a camera. Can we take your picture. We are brothers.
    He gets a little serious, and says no pictures, and goes back to the truck were his buddies have been the whole time, and they leave.

    We new what was going down as soon as he started asking for insurance (you dont need it in Peru). We kept everything respectful, and he was never threatening. He did say he was going to keep my international license if we did not get insurance.
    We feel bad that we had to contribute to this type of corruption. We really did only have 60 soles on us at the time, and are glad that he was happy with basically 12 dollars. What really sucks is that there are some really pore people that dont really have a way to make a living in Peru. This guy has a job that pays.

    Anyway, we continue on, but we are not going to make it to Huaraz today.

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    We try to push through the snow storm, but we cant, and my fingers are colder than they have ever been, ever. We pass a semi going the other direction that I swear, swerved in order to put his tires in the position to just completely cover us with slushy ice and snow.
    We retreat back to a small town called Huansla for the night, and are able to make the mnt pass the next day.

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    Huaraz

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    #77
  18. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    We enjoy our star in Huaraz. Its a place we would like to come back to some time. This area has something like 20 mnt peaks that are over 20,000 feet (the us has only 2).
    We take the dirt route down to the coast and pull off the road to set up camp in the desert. It was like we were on the moon. The air felt as if it didnt exist. It was a calm night and and there was no moisture in the air or ground.
    The next stop was Huanchaco where we got a place overlooking the ocean for cheep (cheep for an ocean view, not cheep for Peru).
    ...and then on to the longest left (wave) in the world (so they say). It was amazing.

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    :lol3 Look'n at the pic's of us, I can tell we had had a long day. :lol3
    The next night we live it up a little.

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    The next day we make it to Puerto Chicama

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    #78
  19. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    Ya, the place had some magic to it.
    The waves were bigger than thy look once in the water (normal).
    ...not too bad because they were soft, but a hell of a rip tide going on.
    The swell that was come'n in was amazing!!!!!!!
    #79
  20. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    Still work'n on it. (bump)
    #80