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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Migs, Nov 25, 2010.
Ohhhh so that is what that thing is... I was down there messing around when I was inspecting my rear shock bolt. I remember thinking to myself "man... this is a pain in the ass, wonder what it is for".
Cool! Thats my finger, I think thats my garage key, the blue line is my extension cord running from my house to my garage, and thats my F800 :)
Are you famous when people start reposting your pic's?
Glad someone found it cause I take too many pictures to find one that old lol
One thing I have found out that I should have thought of long ago.... If you remove that plug and then drop your bike in water, the ABS may fault at a bad moment when you hook it back up.
I would suggest some plastic wrap and a rubber band to keep the ends dry and clean.
Have fun, ride fast!
what if you wire a switch that breaks the connection underneath the seat... would that not work?
Yes it sure would. But you're dealing with shielded wiring and that doesn't make it impossible, but it sure makes it a pain. I also don't know if the computer checks for continuity in the circuit constantly, or only at startup.
I just sent an email to a smart guy who has done other BMW related electrical projects to see if this is feasible.
what are you calling "shielded wire"
He says it's doable. I'm going to send him close up pictures of the connectors when I get home so he can cross-reference them against his supply of BMW connectors and then make up a switch to test. I'll keep y'all posted.
If I was going to try it, I'd look to do the same. Make a switch that just plugs between the stock connectors. No warranty issues, no wiring troubles.
If the computer isn't constantly checking for continuity or has no minimum absolute voltage trigger, you could run into a problem where the brain box assumes the front wheel is locked because it is not seeing a varying signal when you trip a brake switch. I would assume that would not be the case since we are no longer in 1988.
Another effective solution would be to place a switch in the power supply to the ABS pump (if equipped), maybe even the valving depending on how it's wired.
Shielded wiring typically has a metal mesh below the outer plastic skin to reduce electromagnetic interference.
Yeti, your bypass switch will be shielded as well, right? Having been an electronics tech on aircraft for 15yrs believe me when I say if something isn't shielded and it should be, expect nothing but headaches and abnormal behavior. A cell phone in your pocket would place it about a foot away from this connection and could really wreak havoc on the inductance signal coming in from the wheel sensor resulting in unpredictable behavior with the ABS while it's on or while you think it's off. :eek1
slow pokes... what do you think I've been doing all night?
p.s. - http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51598&rnd=03192010
It sure doesn't look like shielded wiring does it?
No it doesn't look like it is. I think the wires would look a bit thicker than that.
I looked in the Haynes manual and it doesn't indicate shielded wiring for anything but the CANBUS. Of course, who knows how accurate that is...
Yeti and I are working on finding the parts. We found one side and just need the other. I would offer two kits. One with a connector to a switch on the frame below the seat or you can just buy the connectors with wires alone and wire it to your own switch anywhere you want on the bike.
Please be patient as I'm on the road for most of March.
This won't mess with the computer? I had a problem with my rear ABS sensor (got hit pretty hard and didn't work after) and it messed with other things, I remember the turn signals not turning off, can't remember what else.
We will research and test everything before going to market with this. I don't want to break anyone's bike and be sued.
with the ABS unplugged the auto-off turn signal feature does not work... weird I know... :huh
Lets cross our fingers and hope this works out