Deaf Rider's solo journey exploring Americas

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by WhicheverAnyWayCan, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. Abenteuerfahrer

    Abenteuerfahrer Deaf on Wheels

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,376
    Location:
    Prescott, Arizona, USA
    Hola... pretty intriguing story of yours. Wishing you God Speed all the may. Please be reminded of numerous cattle crossings down Mexico. One of my deaf friends who with a group of deaf riders to Cabo San lucas died hitting a cow on his Harley and perished on the spot while his wife survived but is still not in good shape. Please, please keep a look out and ride conservatively. I want you to reach your goal: Tierra del Fuego.

    cheers...
  2. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    I got to Santiago de Querétaro and stopped by few hotels but none were available.. it was getting late.. 5:30pm. I am not sure why none of single room was available.. so I was thinking... screw it I will just ride out of town and I am sure there would be some motel or hotel along the way.. There was almost always a hotel/motel when you get into the town or exit the town so I gambled.

    I scored one for $375 pesos and went ahead to order dinner for $164. $29 USD overall.

    Let's see..

    Nice shower/bathroom


    Nice sink/mirror with toothbrush and toothpaste


    Big ass king bed! And a desk to write to family and catch up with RR!


    Nice couch to have dinner that was delivered to your room.


    And the most important part is a secured parking!

    I didn't even have to unpack!

    Ok I think I will start staying in sex motel from now on! :lol3:rofl

    Tomorrow, heading over to Grutas de Tolantongo and hope to get to the hotel by 12noon (190 miles ride from here). Time permitting, maybe a haircut tomorrow.
    Foiler and motopoet like this.
  3. Turk34

    Turk34 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    133
    Location:
    Atlanta, USA
    Ken, we are ahead you and hope to meet you again... Safe ride..
    WhicheverAnyWayCan likes this.
  4. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Oh yeah.. am aware of that. I read one of RR by a guy who got hit by donkey and was paralyzed then passed away later on. Your friend that hit the cow, was his name Mansfred or something like that? I think I heard about that but the story was he hit the truck but good to know I am getting the real version of story. I admit that sometime when I get to 65mph, I would constantly ask myself.. what if tire blew off and I lost control then hit something and injury myself.. who will take care of me so I slow down. 15 Cuota seems safe to speed as it is posted 110 kph and despite that, few seems to be going like over 100mph!
  5. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Hello from Grutas de Tolantongo! This place is okay.. the nature is very beautiful.. I'll write about it when I have better wifi signal. Managed to get video uploaded.

    It seems that I have a new bike problem.



    At least, it seems that every time I face new problem, it seems that I am either very close to the place I am going to stay, or am already at the place I am staying. Can't complain! Could be worse! Stay tune for update!
  6. Abenteuerfahrer

    Abenteuerfahrer Deaf on Wheels

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,376
    Location:
    Prescott, Arizona, USA
    Darn... try finding a radiator screen for your model when replacing with a new or used radiator. eBay has one radiator for $160.00. Radiators can be repaired but.....!! How about a radiator Leak-stop- additive(temp fix)

    When I took my 1200GS to Newfoundland/Labrador, it was recommended that I basically armor the undersides and front with screens and baseplates due to the gravely terrain there.

    Cannot remember the name of the deaf guy that hit a cow. He slammed into the cow two up. Killed the cow but died of his injuries on the spot. Cow was gone in the morning; scavenged by the locals for food. This was during an (EDB) Eastern Deaf Bikers USA/Mexico trip from Tijuana to La Paz. Due to the death of one of their rider they quickly disbanded before La Paz. Met the group in Colorado before they headed for Mex.

    Again I repeat WATCH out...

    cheers..
    WhicheverAnyWayCan likes this.
  7. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Grutas de Tolantongo:

    If you want to go there, you need to go to San Cristobal of Hidalgo and from there, it is straight to the "resort". The road from Ixmiquilpan start out with literally thousand topes (Oh god! I have a love and hate relationship with Mexico's Topes but mostly hate) then when you get past Cardonal, the road start to get somewhat bad before getting past San Cristobal then it gets worse! But one road lead you down to Grutas de Tolantongo, and don't worry because they are now in process of paving the road so I think in a year, it will be a good road between San Cristobal and Grutas.

    My experience with hotel was not great. No wifi, no TV, only two receptacles in the room but in wrong place you won't have any place to lay down your phone/laptop/etc when you want to recharge. Bathroom is literally as big as the bedroom! Closet reek of old mold odor and saw couple of roach. Oh yea, couple of roaches were crawling on the table while I was eating in the restaurant so I imagine they have not done any proper exterminating job with bugs. I recommend considering finding a motel/hotel within riding distance and come to this place for a day because $120 pesos entitle you from 7am to 8pm to enjoy the nature, which is the best thing of this place.

    The view is speculating as you make your way there:


    Partial of paved road.. by 2017 I think the whole way will be paved for easy access.


    "Rio"


    Waterfall


    Behind me in the photo above is a place you can walk down and enjoy hot spring water. It combines the cold water from waterfall with the hot spring making it warm water to enjoy..


    A hike up above the waterfall, there is a tunnel that you can walk through to enjoy hot spring water:


    More waterfall above that tunnel:


    The bridge to cross to other side was broke but if it wasn't, I would be able to walk over to this "hot tub" where you could enjoy what appear to be man made hot spring using nature hot spring water.


    Oh! And don't forget to bring aqua shoe designed for you to walk in water because there is a lot of rocks under the water it can be very hard to waddle around the water barefoot. I had one with me so I was able to walk around without problem.

    This resort is open and also in the process of improving so I think that in few years, this resort will have a huge potential. I can imagine that some amenities are not exactly their prior in expense because they need the money for infrastructure but once they have finished with the infrastructure then this resort will be great place.
    Foiler, VanDT and BC Brian like this.
  8. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    While I was at Grutas de Tolantongo, I found my radiator leaking as seen in the video above. I hired a mechanic to come out here and get the radiator and go to town to "fix it". I used google images to show him yellow Prestone 50/50 antifreeze. He left and came back 3 hours later.. The radiator didn't see to had "Torno" work done (Torno is aluminum welder in Mexico) and he brought me wrong Prestone antifreeze with dex-cool designed for GM vehicle! Not only that but after installing the radiator and adding wrong antifreeze, it still friggin leak!!! :dirtdog I paid him $600 before he left so I guess I am out of $600 pesos. I told him I was not going to pay him any more because obviously he didn't do any work on my radiator and that he should go before I get angry. He quietly collected his tool and left. I explained the situation to front desk- the guy who called him- and told him I would not recommend his business to future clients because that reflect on the resort too. The front desk guy write good english so he understood and agreed then discard the business card.

    I plugged the radiator with J&B Weld stuff but it didn't really stop the leak, however when I added Black Pepper, it did the trick. That is what I should have done in first place. Oh well!


    I would ride 131 miles from Grutas to Mexico City where advrider inmate live. He wanted me to meet him somewhere in Mexico City and follow him to his house. Before I came over, I told him it was my birthday on Friday Oct 21 so he was prepared for it. What I didn't expect is that I would run into deaf rider that has been riding round the world for 7 years going into 8th year next year. He has already been around the world 3rd time and is on his last leg doing Latin America before he close his traveling chapter then start write a book about it. Currently his African Twin bike, which is 2nd bike in 7 years, has about 160,000KM. It has a bad air compression on front cylinder so he is "stuck" for the moment. Anyway, he came over to meet me and celebrate my birthday.

    On my right is the host Garry and behind me is Marko, deaf rider from Austria.


    Group photo sunday evening after Sunday lunch


    Monday the 24th, took radiator to one of the best radiator shop and they apparently took it apart and insert some kind of glue then put it back together because when I ran the bike, it created some kind of brown bubbles before it became solid and stopped the leak. Bike is running fine now, however the shop warned that interior of radiator is corroded and the fix could be short term or long term. Unknown but at least they were honest and I can appreciate it! $700 pesos. Not bad.

    Tomorrow, I'll head to Marko's friend house and help him take front cylinder apart to see what may be contributing to his weak compression. It could be valve or rings or bad piston. Let's see what happen. Marko might buy other bike and continue the trip?? Depending on the situation, we might be riding together from here to Colombia. One of our friend used coconut boat to take his bike from Panama to Colombia for $250. We are now exploring option on crossing the gap.
    Foiler, BC Brian and Cmnthead like this.
  9. tncpowell

    tncpowell Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,009
    Location:
    Christmas Island Western Australia
    We are interested to hear more about this coconut boat idea!! Sounds like an awesome adventure
  10. Len

    Len Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    2,758
    Location:
    North Alabama
    [​IMG]
    Happy Birthday! It looks like you had a lovely family to enjoy your day. :clap
    SkizzMan likes this.
  11. RoaringTodd

    RoaringTodd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    70
    Marko! One of my ADV heroes! You are very fortunate to have met him. Is that a new African Twin he had?
  12. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    I ran into Michael (who used coconut boat to get his bike over the gap and he is in the photo behind my host below) last Saturday night at León during the Motofiesta and he said he would send me email soon. He returned from Colombia on Friday then rode to León. I'll update when I know something.

    Sure did! Garry is a great guy and very helpful! His neighbor and the family were very nice.

    No, its old version of African Twin and has about 168,000km I think? But it now has weak compression on front cylinder. Look like we might try to make it to Cancun where one of his friend has a moto shop and maybe get it fixed?
    tncpowell likes this.
  13. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    I've been staying in a house here in Tula for free for few nights before riding out to León where the Motofiesta is. Stayed at one of MC member's house for the weekend. Bought me decent Mexican boot (León is the place in Mexico to buy quality leather stuff and quality boots). I'm back in the house at Tula so access to wifi has been zero. I'm using cellular data to post brief update. I should post somet random photos in few days depending on my next host as I dont want to offend/insult Mexican host. Its just culture thing and showing respect especially if they buy alcohol and want you to help finish the bottle.
    Len and Cmnthead like this.
  14. motopoet

    motopoet The Moto Poet

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2014
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    New York
    Hello sir, hope all is well, we haven't heard from you in some time!

    Ride, Smile, Blink Slow
    gatorjack and WhicheverAnyWayCan like this.
  15. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Hello from Panama City! Just had moto inspected by DIJ this morning, paid $300 container fee, and received stamped document from Secratary of General of DIJ today. Heading to port of Colon tomorrow morning at 7am to process motos into custom and etc. Should fly out to Medellin on Wednesday. Last few weeks has been interesting that half stuff I can't share on here, unfortunately. You will be happy to know that I spent $14 on hotel since leaving Mexico City. Met a lot of nice people who were warm enough to welcome us into their house and accommodated us. Was nickled by a semi today but walked away with very tiny damage, thank god! My bike is now without rear brake but will give some braking if I pump it so it can be challenging trying to pump brake with right foot and downshifting with left foot.

    I'll upload photos and post in next few days.

    By the way, haven't got any info on coconut boat BUT it seems that we missed a boat that would cost $300 per bike from Panama to Turbo. The boat sailed on the day we arrived to Panama City yesterday. It sailed with 16 motos! That is all I know and nothing more. I still think my shipping cost is reasonable assuming there is no hidden fee, total would be $488 plus airfare. ($125 to Medellin then $30-50 to Cartagena next week)
    Cmnthead likes this.
  16. Tijustme2

    Tijustme2 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    254
    Location:
    West of Eastonville
    Hey, sounds good. Can you provide more details on shipping please?
  17. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Tula, Mexico


    Front of Mayor palace with a friend.


    Checking out other ride:


    Dinner party at MC clubhouse before party at Motofiesta de Leon 2016:


    Overview of Nogales


    Direction of traffic:


    Friends in Nogales


    Toll booth protests and we got through without paying.


    Standing in front of Christo de Chiapas. It's actually tallest in the world!


    River between Mexico and Guatemala. People are crossing on tire tubes. I notice they are buying and bring shitload of coke & water bottles from Mexico into Guatemala. No police patrolling or anything like that almost as if it is encouraged.
    KLRalph likes this.
  18. WhicheverAnyWayCan

    WhicheverAnyWayCan Deaf Biker

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,651
    Location:
    Seven Springs NC
    Marko's bike was prone to trouble. His fuel pump died down near Mexico-Guatemala border so he removed fuel pump and re-routed fuel line without fuel pump. After that his bike would have issue depending on if the tank is full or if it is near empty, and also electrical issues. We stopped frequently to find what is wrong and fix it before repeating. So when we are in Costa Rica about 40km near Panama border, it was getting dark earlier due to storm coming and Marko decided he wanted to camp so we stopped and asked a guy if we could camp in his yard? He said it is wet but he had better idea.. he asked the school master that live next door, and school were open to us. But we weren't alone! There were a lot of bats in the building but it didn't bother us.


    This quote rings so true.. it's good they are teaching that in elementary school


    At Norman's house in David, Panama:


    We got to Panama City and stayed with a friend there. On Monday, we proceed to Dept of Investigation Judiciary of Panama to look at VIN and registration. The investigator wrote down the VIN and motor # then told us to go by Secratary of General office after 2pm to pick up paper.


    We went to have lunch and went by the Secratary of General office to pick up document. They typed Marko's name wrong so I reviewed the document careful to be sure they had my name and VIN correct.

    Next day, we went up to Colon to the port.


    Processing bike into port here is just as complicated as border crossing. First we have to go by the Martitime office to give 4 copies of Bill of Lading for stamping. There you should pay your fee, but we had already paid $300 each by depositing fund into agent's bank account but I think it is better to pay them next time just to be safe. After that, we ride our moto down to Aduana building where they look at paperwork and stamp few of them then keep one copy and give us 2 copies. We go back to the building near the maritime building to the aduana and process paperwork. That is when they found error in Marko's DIJ document- VIN and motor # were flipped and they were going to deny his paperwork but he was able to talk his way into getting them to bend a little and stamped his document. Huge relief because we took the risk of buying plane ticket or otherwise we would be screw. Next, we paid $11 port fee and then get new document at next window. That's it and next step was to drop the moto off and get a document stating that the port has received our moto. That is when you are supposed to buy plane ticket AFTER you receive the document that the port has receive the moto putting responsibility on them, not before. That is a value lesson I learned from Marko for future reference to anyone. We were told we would have to pay $70 to process bike into the port but we were never asked so we paid $311 so far.




    I left my helmet, riding gear & boot, and stuff with the moto. The port too picture of everything including the office so if it is missing something at Cartagena then we know what's gonna happen. I took same picture they took with my iphone for same document.

    We took taxi from the port to bus station. $5 and then bus from Colon to Panama City, $3.15 each.

    I flew out of Panama Pacifico using VivaColombia but there were a delay due to bad storm and the building was friiggin cold! They wouldn't let us into other room because we were already through the immigration and security clearance we were stuck in cold room! :(


    Flew out of here at 9pm instead of scheduled 7:25pm and got to Medellin at 10:30pm. Arrived at my room midnight.

    Heading out to Cartagena on Monday to process moto out of the port.
    roadcapDen, Len, junkyardroad and 2 others like this.
  19. Sherwin84

    Sherwin84 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2016
    Oddometer:
    39
    Location:
    yorkton, saskatchewan
    Awesome report so far! Can't wait to read and see more!! Best of luck and safe travels!!
  20. Len

    Len Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    2,758
    Location:
    North Alabama
    Happy to see you are having a good passage to Colombia, good luck picking up the bike and hope all is well. What was the name of the company that did the bike shipping?