Delta 28-303 14 inch bandsaw repair

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jgrady1982, Nov 25, 2012.

  1. jgrady1982

    jgrady1982 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    784
    Location:
    Cleveland, Ohio
    I purchased a Delta 20-303 14" bandsaw about a month ago from HGR.

    It worked great in high speed, and I think it was used for cutting mostly wood. The saw had a dusting of wood shavings and a wood blade when I bought it. There is a clutch system that allows you to change from high to low speed and I could not get the saw to engage the low speed setting.

    So I removed the lower pulley gear system after I drained about a quart and a half of gear lube. Inside the lower case was a sheared off roll pin that I think is the culprate for the inner slow speed clutch not working.

    My question is how do I get the shaft out of the lower wheel drive?

    There are two woodruff keys it looks like that I think need to be punched out before I remove the shaft. How do I do this? Heat them up and tap them out? Or is there another way?

    Here are the pics. The saw is very nice overall, and judging from this thread http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=117620 I think that this clutch engagement issue is kind of common.

    Thanks,

    Jack

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    One whole roll pin and one sheared in half, the broken one was sitting in the bottom oil when I removed the lower drive/gear shaft.

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    Drive wheel side of saw
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    I made a mobile dolly out of 1/8" x 2" angle plate welded together with some harbor freight casters on the bottom. My garage is so small that everything needs to be on wheels. One coat of oil based machine shop grey applied today.
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    I also made a surface plate stand out of the same material along with some braces for two shelves to store mill vices as well as lathe chucks. That gets painted once I weld on some caster mounting plates to the bottom.
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    #1
  2. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,823
    Location:
    Turning expensive metal into scrap
    I used to rebuild really big old American Iron woodworking machines. They are really fun to work on and bring back to life. Nothing modern can touch them. Good to see you found OWWM, that was my first suggestion.

    As far as taking out the keys, I usually take a junk screwdriver and grind it down and beat it in between the shaft and key. Sometimes a drift right on the point will knock it loose. I always replace with new too.

    Hard to tell from that pic how the shaft comes out, it looks like it is a solid shaft that goes through both sides of the casting and the gear drops down into the oil? If so be very careful smacking the end of that shaft with metal. Based on the fact that you have surface plate in one of your pics, you probably knew that though:wink:
    #2
  3. ttpete

    ttpete Rectum Non Bustibus

    Joined:
    May 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,198
    Location:
    Dearborn, MI
    Woodruff keys are easy. Take a pair of side cutters and grab the sides of the key, then rock them down on the shaft to lever the key out. When you replace the roll pin, use a Spirol pin. It's made of spiral rolled steel and is stronger than an ordinary roll pin.
    #3
  4. jgrady1982

    jgrady1982 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    784
    Location:
    Cleveland, Ohio
    I checked out the spirol website. Thanks for that tip by the way.

    Where do I buy these things at, McMaster Carr?

    From the looks of it I am not the first person to have this apart. I found a loosely threaded set screw holding the inner clutch gear off of the large gear for the slow metal speeds. Also there were a bunch of washers on the outside of the clutch keeping the outer clutch engaged to the large fast wood speed pulley.

    When I got it all apart I cleaned the drive shaft up in the parts washer and then cleaned the inner clutch. It was full of dry sticky caked on oil and this was making it not move freely on the shaft. So I buffed the shaft (great description...right) and then cleaned up the inner clutch and now it moves freely.

    It is a pretty neat, simple design when it gets broked down. All the bearings spin freely and there is no binding going on. I just need some new roll pins and this thing is ready to go.

    I pounded out the assembly from the drive wheel (saw blade) side. Then I used my gear puller to pull off the remaining bearing with the slot on the side of it and then had to use the same pulley to remove the inner clutch, that is how caked on it was with old oil. Pretty nasty. Cleaned everything up in the parts washer, and now I am two roll pins away from getting this thing back and running.

    Here are the pics:

    Thanks for the replies btw, I love this site. People here know a lot about a lot of stuff! :clap

    I re-created my method for pounding out the assembly. I used a brass brush to keep the shaft kind of level while I hit a hammer on a piece of oak that was against the shaft.
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    You can see the small set screw in this pic on the inner clutch. They did not even thread the clutch, just kind of jammed/threaded it in there. It came right out.
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    This is how the gear comes out
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    You can see how caked on with dry sticky oil this thing is here
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    I had to use the puller to remove the inner clutch that is supposed to glide freely on the drive shaft :huh:huh:huh
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    Good and bad roll pins
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    Backside of the gear, this bearing feels nice so I am going to leave the retainer screw alone and not remove it.
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    I also cleaned up the lower drive gear in the parts washer
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    #4
  5. ttpete

    ttpete Rectum Non Bustibus

    Joined:
    May 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,198
    Location:
    Dearborn, MI
    McMaster's is probably the logical place to get the small hardware. If you want a more secure set screw setup, stack two short headless setscrews in the hole. The second one locks the first one.
    #5