difference between 990 and 990 R?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Rodknee, Jun 13, 2012.

  1. Rodknee

    Rodknee the post is mightier than the sword...

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    sorry, i am a 990 noob... what is the difference between the 990 and 990 R? seems to be just suspension travel/ride height? is it just a spring swap? if i get the normal 990, can i make it an R on the cheap? again, sorry about my noobness... :cry
    #1
  2. Johnf3

    Johnf3 Long timer

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    The internal cartridge length on the front is different, so no quick way to get R suspension travel. The rear requires just a spacer (but also requires you to know how to work on a WP shock).

    Other differences are no ABS on the R and a different ECU tune on the R that is supposed to net more peak HP.
    #2
  3. TheMuffinMan

    TheMuffinMan Forest Ranger Magnet

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    Suspension travel/height and the bike's color scheme are different. I think 990 R's don't come with ABS but I could be wrong.

    There's a few more bits to swap out to bring a regular adventure up to the 'R' spec. I'd just by the R if you want more travel/height, unless you wanted ABS.
    #3
  4. catalina38

    catalina38 Long timer

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    990R has more suspension travel, more power and no ABS. Increasing travel to R specs $$$$

    http://superplushsuspension.com/a-raising.htm

    2007-On Raising*

    Forks:
    Revalving (full service included): $250.00
    Fork Springs (.52 to .70): $119.99
    KTM Replacement Cartridge rods, longer (2): $190.68 (for both)
    KTM replacement adjustment tubes (2): $30.12 (for both)
    KTM replacement cartridge tubes (2): $230.00 (for both)
    KTM replacement hydraulic stops (2): $114.00 (for both)
    Oil: $26.00
    Fork Labor (raising): $50.00
    TOTAL: $1077.18

    Shock:
    Revalving (full service included): $200.00
    Stretch Labor: $50.00
    Oil: $28.00
    Spring 265mm: $139.00
    Rebound Shim to Reset Height: $36.00
    Seal $14.00

    TOTAL: $467.00 (subtract $100 if not revalving shock)

    TOTAL Forks and Shock: $1544.18 (subtract $100 if not revalving shock)
    #4
  5. Capt.saveaho

    Capt.saveaho Been here awhile

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    Get the R, I just got the adventure and I should have got the R. Changing to R suspension is a little complicated and requires a lot of different parts, you need a differed kickstand, center stand, and the lowers on the forks need to be changed. I asked super plush to give me a quote on raising my adv and it was 1500 and about 600 for valving. That's about the cost difference between the two. I plan on riding gnarly off road, if you feel you are just going to do fire roads and moderate off road then the adv height will be fine. I'm pretty sure I am going to bottom out with my adv since I already have.:rofl

    IMO the only reason you should buy the adv over the R is if you want ABS. I am having a little buyers remorse about it.
    #5
  6. Capt.saveaho

    Capt.saveaho Been here awhile

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    Well theres the numbers
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  7. Rodknee

    Rodknee the post is mightier than the sword...

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    i am sure this is a completely different debate, but i prefer no ABS and a taller ground clearance, so it sounds like i need/want the R. sucks, because the 990 i was looking at for cheap is a non R.

    thanks for the info. :D
    #7
  8. JiTe

    JiTe Flying Finn

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    I just got my R other day and cant wait to have a good bash with it on the loose surface. There seems to be lots to learn about suspension settings. Had GSA previously (before my last bike which was K1600GT?!) Adjusting settings was made too easy on those bikes. I think i have to carry manual with me for a while. Has anybody got any suggestions for taller screen, KTM touring-screen only choice? Will be doing lots of on otr with two up so taller screen would be nicer. Looking for ergo seat too...i think this seat will make my ass numb in no time. And before you ask...no, i have no plans to modify this R into GW.
    #8
  9. henryroten

    henryroten Been here awhile

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    May or may not be important to you but the R has a one year warranty and the S has a two year...apparently the R types are harder on equipment than the S'...
    #9
  10. TreeBC

    TreeBC Adventurer

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    just a little side note but for you americans it may or may not be cheaper especially since you have a shop in california and most of you ship your stuff to superplush. But there is a company in British Columbia calls Riders Edge suspension that also does the R spec upgrade to the KTM 950 suspension and i think it was 1200$ or so but don't quote me because i really do forget. That was for me to get my stuff revalved and resprung and all that stuff to R spec. They were very helpful as well. Just saying that there is another option out there.

    www.ridersedgesuspension.com
    #10
  11. Tinytags7

    Tinytags7 Banned

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    As people have said the suspension is better more power but your looking at spending more money. Personally the 990 is still great but if you want something bigger more power then the 990r.
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  12. bigkuri

    bigkuri Long timer

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    Just be aware that the 2010 rear suspension if 245mm, and the 2011/2012 rear is only 225mm. The 2008 S is 265mm.... Ignore what the catalog says, this is based on me removing the shocks and reading what the spring stamp says.

    The forks are correct as advertised: 2010 = 265mm and 2011 = 245mm.

    The suspension travel makes a big difference, says someone who has a 2011 R and have swapped it with a 2008 S suspension, and never looked back...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. Alejo

    Alejo Been here awhile

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  14. Alejo

    Alejo Been here awhile

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    That is a pretty looking nice bike. Congrats.
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  15. Jim Colombotos

    Jim Colombotos Been here awhile

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    differences

    Paint scheme
    Suspension height
    Abs
    HP
    Warranty

    Reality....
    What color do you like?
    Most riders will rework suspension valving so cost to raise vs cost of standard R may offset?
    HP simple r map upgrade
    Waranty yep two years standard one year R

    So it really comes down to abs, as converting to non abs requires a different dash.
    #15
  16. catalina38

    catalina38 Long timer

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    That's strange, mine and the two other 2010 990R's I know all have 265mm of travel front and rear.
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  17. gbx2001

    gbx2001 Geophiz

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    I remember reading a magazine article that the 990R suspension was retuned and improved when suspension travel was reducend for the 2011 model year. It sounded like the 990R had better overall suspension than the standard 990 after this revision. Sorry, can't find the article ...
    #17
  18. bigkuri

    bigkuri Long timer

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    I know... weird. I've taken apart a 2010 R and the spring was stamped 245mm, even though it was meant to have 265mm.
    Sitting my bike (with the 2008S suspension) next to a few 2010 Rs - mine is taller, even though for those bikes I could not see the spring stamp.

    Likewise the catalog and all information for 2011 says 245mm, whereas the removed spring is 225mm (sitting on my garage floor).
    #18
  19. Capt.saveaho

    Capt.saveaho Been here awhile

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    The eye to eye shock length or shaft length will tell you how much travel it has not the spring, you can (I won't recommend it) run shorter or slightly longer springs on the same shock. The eye to eye is what you need to look at not a label on the spring.

    Also preload plays a huge factor in how the bike sits static (on its own). A stock spring will sit much lower then a spring for a 250bls rider.

    Your bike looks awesome by the way.
    #19
  20. syzygy9

    syzygy9 Been here awhile

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    Back to the OP. You will need to think very carefully about your intended use, I also had to make the difficult decision between and R and non-R and given my intended use went the non-R for the following reasons. At a normal build 5'10" or 180cm the 2011 R at 245mm was a slight stretch for me (tip toes) while I could comfortably flat foot the non-R. The overall lower non-R means better fast road handling due to the lower CoG. The ABS may be a factor as well (for me it was a negative, I preferred to have the extra under seat space and save 2kg but still went the non-R). The power difference is a non-issue; you can flash your non-R to R if you really must have the extra 5 poofteenths at 15 zillion RPM, but most people don't bother. The extra travel of the R may be useful at times, but the the lower CoG will be useful all of the time.

    My intended riding is mostly fast dirt outback roads here in Aus. I felt for any riding where I would genuinely need all of the travel of a R, I'd probably want something a lot lighter and more dirt orientated. Your own needs may be different - but for me the non-R was the choice.

    One final point, the 'quality' of the suspension between the R and non-R is identical; they both use high quality fully adjustable WP suspension front and rear and identical spring rates - the only difference is the travel. Frankly in my limited time with my 2011 non-R I have been astounded by some of the hits I have taken on this bike and the way it just soaks it up. My only recommendation would be to put slightly heavier front/fork springs in and revalve to suit the new spring rate (I went for 0.56) - otherwise great suspension on both versions of the 990.

    Don't get too hung up on the R vs non-R debate, you need to make your own choice for you own needs, neither is intrinsically better than the other. You won't be disappointed with either.
    #20