distribution block (Canyon Chasers)

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jesse v, Feb 6, 2013.

  1. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Hi all,

    I've been reading up on this tutorial on CanyonChasers.net to learn how to install a distribution block for electric accessories. (It's worth noting I really don't know much about electronics, but I can solder, attach crimp connectors, change pickups on my guitars, etc.)

    I was about to begin my installation, but then realized that my accessories (Tourmaster heated jacket, Stebel Nautilus horn, and [soon] heat grips) have 0-ring connectors designed for battery terminals that are too large for my radio shak distribution block. (The rings don't fit between the black walls.)

    The Canyon Chasers tutorial doesn't address this issue. Should I look for a larger distribution block? Or should I cut the ends off my accessories and attach smaller prong connectors?

    THanks!
    Jesse
    #1
  2. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

    Joined:
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    Cut the ends and add new ring connectors of the appropriate size.

    Jim :brow
    #2
  3. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

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    Apr 16, 2011
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    205
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    Sioux Falls, SD
    Thanks Jim. I figured this was the case, but I'm a little intimidated by electronic gizmo-wizardry-black-magic.
    #3
  4. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

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    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    205
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    Welp... I hooked everything up today and there's no power coming from the dis. block. The relay makes a "click" sound when I turn the key on, so I assume that my soldering job into the running light is good. Tomorrow I'll check all the other connections.
    #4
  5. Rocket Scientist

    Rocket Scientist Adventurer

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    Jul 6, 2012
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    Brighton,CO
    I picked up a 6 fuse distribution block along with an 8 terminal block (for grounds) from Auto Zone. Im cleaning up the wiring (wirenuts & alot of 3 way splices) & putting it behind the headlight on my DR. Ive got a battery pack back-up that Im verifing this weekend. My best guess is that the 12v lead from the stator (old headlight power) needs to go to the switched side of the relay (on) allowing the battery supplied constant 12v to go to my block. That way nothing is backfeeding into the stator feed when the bike is off (not running). Trying to verify all this over the coming weekend.
    #5
  6. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

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    Apr 16, 2011
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    205
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    Sioux Falls, SD



    A fellow forumite on the svportal.com pointed out my mistake... I had my jumper positioned incorrectly so that the block was not divided into positive and negative sides, so I blew the fuse every time I turned the key on. got it fixed now; works like a charm! Grip heaters, heated jacket liner, and my stebel horn are all connected to it. My PCIII was installed by the previous owner by being tapped into some other power source and grounded to the battery, so I'm just going to leave that as is.
    #6
  7. seniorasi

    seniorasi Banned

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    Any chance you can upload some photos?
    #7
  8. aussie_king_mick

    aussie_king_mick Been here awhile

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    #8
  9. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

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    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Sioux Falls, SD
    yes sir:

    [​IMG]

    The relay tucks nicely behind the battery:

    [​IMG]

    Symtec Grip Heaters, also a la Canyon Chasers. Tip: Wrap the left side of your handlebar with silicon tape ("Rescue Tape") for best heat transfer, especially if you're using aluminum bars like me:

    [​IMG]
    #9
  10. jesse v

    jesse v Motorcyclist

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    205
    Location:
    Sioux Falls, SD
    This is the WRONG way that I initially tried to do it:

    [​IMG]

    It's seems so obvious now, but this was my first venture into electrical work. I needed to cut the jumper in half, and put the 2 halves "diagonal" from one another.
    #10