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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Katoom119, Nov 15, 2008.
Thanks a lot katoom! You are the man
I don’t want to start yet another thread for SAS removal problems so here I am<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
after I did the removal I had some idle problems which I fixed with the 15min reset. However now that the idle problem is out of the way, I noticed another strange thing. At idle, I smell some unburned fuel. It happens in the morning at start up or even at stopping lights. I don’t have any leak from somewhere. <o></o>
any thoughts? <o></o>
Did you forget to plug the hole in the rear of the air filter box, where the SAS hose was connected?
excellent write up & pics. I thought I followed it pretty good.
This is my second canisteretomy & sas removal.
But the FI will not stop blinking... any trouble shooting ideas would be greatly appreciated....
Did you put the resistors in the SAI and canister pumps?
Going by the hardware count only 2 resistors are need ? or did i mess that part up...
should it be 3 or 4 ?
It's been a while. But I only remember 1 for the valve at the rear of the airbox.
Scrolling through it seems like there is one for the back and one for the front. ?. But I'm still getting the FI blinking light
Hi guys I am doing my SAS valve. I am stuck at the front cylinder.
How the hell do you remove the block-off plate without removing the oil tank and so on?
You know, been so long I don't remember but I know I didn't have to remove the oil tank. Maybe pull radiator forward? Maybe a swivel socket on an extension? Definitely remove SAS hose first to make it more navigable.
Just wanted to say thanks to the O.P. of this thread, found some 22,000 ohm resistors at work and made up a couple of pigtails and fabricated some block off plates, took some of the bike apart last night, will finish it up as soon as I order the pin connectors.
FYI, it's easier to just disconnect the parts and use Tune ECU software and cable to turn both pumps off (Called SAI in tune ECU.) That way you don't have to worry about resistors breaking or anything. Just some shrink tube to cover over the connectors and done. Plus you now have the cable and software to now see what your ECU sees, like trouble codes and what not. A good investment in my opinion.
Operation went well tonight thanks to some of the great tips in this thread.
That's a lot of stuff!
4mm ball end allen socket w/ a dab of grease on the end at this angle seemed to be the hot ticket for the front block off plate.
That's what I had to do. Two extensions on two swivel sockets after moving the radiator forward.
Hi. I thought i'd share with you guys how i saved a bit of money doing my SAS removal. I re-used the old plates simply by removing the hose, put a bolt into the spout and using metal epoxy to seal the bolt in place. I then used back the old plates.
No need for expensive new ones or fabrication, and with quick-drying 2-part epoxy, it takes only about 15 to 20 mins.
Thanks a bunch Katoom for putting this thread together.... Sure helped me!!!
Also great tip from Moose Dog about the grease on the box end wrench to get that PITA bottom bolt on the front cylinder.
Love this forum!
I'm about to tackle this over the weekend along with installing a Rottweiler intake/filter system.
So, my question is, if the front SAS plate is so hard to get to in order to remove and replace with a block off plate....why not just leave it in place? Instead of removing it, just cut the hose and plug the end...done. If I had a naked bike like a Superduke, the block off plate would look nicer, but on the Adventure, you can't see it anyway because it's covered by the tank....
My thoughts on this are the possibility of the hose dry rotting and causing problems down the road. It is a pain but by loosening the radiator and using quarter inch dive tools and adding a few new words to the dictionary, it can be done for peace of mind.
Just did mine, if you remove the 3 bolts holding the oil tank and the 2 top bolts on the radiator then slide both forward you can easily get a 8 mm wrench in and lose the bolt.
Well, some of you are going to say I cheated but after doing some research I found plenty of guys who just cut and capped the hose because it's functionally the same thing as applying a block off plate. The only downside that has been mentioned is fear of the hose dry rotting or cracking. However, if that's the risk, then every bike with SAS still installed or with any rubber hoses on it at all are in the same boat. I figure what I'll do is hang on to the plate and install it sometime down the road when it's more convenient, like when I'm already tearing into that area for a valve job or similar.
I used a 1/2 inch brass hose plug, a chemical resistant rubber sleeve, and a hose clamp. This method took all of 5 minutes vs. an hour or more of cussing and swearing