DIY: Crashbar stud mounts step-by-step

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Geek, Oct 4, 2010.

  1. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    In a recent thread I saw Qwik posted that he'd switched his front crashbar mounts from "bolt on" to "studs with a lock not".

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14138182&postcount=15

    Why do this:
    The idea is that as you remove and replace your crashbars over time (a very fiddly procedure) the aluminum you are bolting into (above the battery box) gets chewed up which could lead to a long term problem. By eliminating the bolt and using a permanent mounted stud instead, it makes your crash bars easier to mount and it'll save the threads in the frame in the long run :thumb

    I performed the procedure on my bike today and thought I'd put together a step-by-step for others considering it to save you from multiple trips to the hardware store, etc... It is a very easy thing to do but I'll over-explain it in case someone with zero mechanical skills wants to do it.

    There are many ways you could do this - this is what I did; what worked for me and what didn't work for me.

    Here is the problem:
    [​IMG]
    Where your crash bars bolt on in behind the front wheel and above the battery box. Over time the holes will wear. If you've had it apart you know that it is an aluminum plate sitting over the frame underneath.

    Here is the objective: Stud on the left that uses a nut to hold the crash bar on - vs. bolt on the right that we use now.
    [​IMG]

    What I used:
    [​IMG]

    On the right is the stock mounting bolt and the stock spacer.
    I replaced it with the stud, two nuts jammed together, and a lock nut.

    Here is what I used:
    Red loctite (permanent).
    Qty 2: nylon locknuts: M8-1.25
    Qty 4: nuts: M8-1.25 nuts
    Qty 2: studs (aka: All-Thread): M8-1.25x40

    What the numbers mean:
    -M8 means 8mm diameter
    -the 1.25 is the thread pitch (which is coarser than 1.00 pitch - pay attention when buying nuts.. I accidentally bought some 1.00 pitch because they were in the wrong bin :patch! You need 1.25 pitch as that is what the original threaded holes are)
    -40 - the studs are 40mm long - shorter than this you may not have enough material. Much longer than this and you may have clearance issues with the header pipe. 50mm would probably work but I haven't tried.

    I went to a few hardware stores trying to find the right studs - it turns out my local ACE Hardware had them.

    And this is basically the goal: To create the thing on the left and eliminate the thing on the right.
    [​IMG]

    Jam the two nuts together in the middle of the stud by torquing on them toward each other so they bind (I slightly offset mine so that the end that threads into the bike is maybe 2mm shorter than the part that sticks out - ymmv depending on how thick the nuts you have are).

    [​IMG]

    Put red (permanent) loctite on the end you are going to thread into the bike
    [​IMG]

    DO NOT DO THIS!:
    I made this mistake: Do NOT mount the studs before you put the aluminum plate on - there is not enough space between the header and the stud to get the plate on..
    [​IMG]
    so you need to put the plate in position first and then put the studs in.

    Thread them in!
    [​IMG]

    The red loctite will mount them permanently and the two nuts jammed together will let you snug the studs down so that everything is tight :thumb

    Now when you go to mount your crashbars they'll just slip over the studs easily (no more alignment issues :clap (at least on this bolt :patch) )

    [​IMG]

    Throw a nylon lock nut on and you are done :thumb
    [​IMG]

    Note: Qwik did his with the original spacers. I found that the nuts I used created enough lift that I didn't need the spacer - YMMV. Using the spacers would probably be "stronger" as they are wider - I might replace my nuts with larger outside diameter ones in the future to give a bigger foot print.

    [​IMG]

    I hope this helps someone. :freaky

    cheers,
    Edward
    #1
  2. GordonFreeman

    GordonFreeman Gamer

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    Thanks, very helpful
    #2
  3. DeBandi

    DeBandi Exploring Alabama

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    Nice. :thumb
    #3
  4. viola-tor

    viola-tor Needs to ride!

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    Good job Geek! You were watching that thread too, eh? :lol3

    I'll be doing this too. I might add a couple big fat washers on top and bottom to spread the load...
    #4
  5. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    Nice Write up Geek and thanks for the Credit. I didnt think of it but copied someone elses original post. And I did say to put the plate on first:D . I had the same issue.
    #5
  6. teambft

    teambft teambft

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    This is awesome!! The last time I re-mounted mine the darn bolt went in real tough - thanks Geek!!
    #6
  7. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    The only difference with the setup is I used actual Engine studs versus Allthread
    #7
  8. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    Are engine studs reverse threaded on each end? :lurk
    #8
  9. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    Two different thread types I believe.
    #9
  10. Tangai

    Tangai Been here awhile

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    I like! Besides the crash bars being much easier to remove and install (and the threads are not as easily stripped) the aluminum plate doesnÂ’t fall off when the crash bars is removed.
    Great idea.
    #10
  11. KTMandu

    KTMandu Adventurer Wannabe

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    Won't this set-up prevent you from being able to remove the aluminum plate in order to access the battery?:confused
    #11
  12. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    Ya dont need to remove the upper plate (At least I didnt) to remove/swap the battery.
    #12
  13. Geek

    Geek oot & aboot

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    I've changed my battery without touching the upper plate or removing the bars (you just undo the two screws in the front and the doors swing down) :dunno

    Did things change with the 990s?
    #13
  14. mookymoo

    mookymoo Mookish Mook

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    Nope.

    That cover isnt something you have to remove to get to anything important...

    This is something I will have to do since I managed to cross/strip one of the crashbar mount threads (its got an extra-long bolt in there now which just has enough bite). Will need to helicoil the bugger eventually too.
    #14
  15. viola-tor

    viola-tor Needs to ride!

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    I'm considering helicoil-ing both of them when I do this for good measure. Those threads live hard lives...
    #15
  16. Qwik

    Qwik Adrenaline Addict

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    Installed my Crashbars today (Took em off to paint em) and I gotta tell ya. This makes it MUCH Easier to do.
    #16
  17. scorpion

    scorpion Two arm bandit

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    Thanks for spelling it all out.
    I was just going to start researching the hardware needed to do this fix. Now I just gotta get some studs and dig my crash bars out of the junk pile. :evil
    #17
  18. mtb_man

    mtb_man Unfettered

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    Thanks for the writeup Geek. If/when I install crashbars, this little mod will come in handy.
    #18
  19. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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    Thanks, Geek. I crossthreaded BOTH crashbar mounts last night, so I'll be out today finding an M8, 1.25 tap and some studs.

    Much appreciated.
    #19
  20. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog bikes, booze, broads...

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    Brilliant! Id'a kept my crashbars had I thought o that!
    #20